Ranchibi said:

36DD-B's....B stands for bottles.....

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You beat me to it pal. I immediately thought of Double D's

Hey all,

I came across these Northtac optics when reading some things online and then watched some YT videos, they look pretty good and durable. Only finding things with them on I powder guns. Has anyone had experience with these? Specifically looking at the Northtac P-11 Red Dot. Will be mostly likely be used on .22 PCP, either Notos or Beeman 1358 underlever. I did a search for Northtac here and nothing showed, any input would be greatly appreciated. I can post a list to manufacturers specs, but wasn't sure if that's against the rules. I'm still new as a member, but been a long time lurker. If link is allowed let me know too lol

I don't like most bullpups but this one looks kind of cool. I can appreciate the form factor when considering the huge air tank and length of the barrel. Better than having a 6 foot long gun like the Fux.

Any guesses on price?

Airgun Al said:

Enjoy your pellets.

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i try.

Are you talking about #4

silverstreak said:

Seems like a good option to have. I did ask because somewhere I had read about a rifle that needed the air to be removed to go one way or the other on the reg pressure... Can not remember though. Thanks

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A lot gun regs have to degas just to access the adjustment screw.

Some regs like the Huben Power Dream regs they specifically state you can damage the reg by going down.

I'm not an expert by any stretch so I tend to err on the Huben Power side. But I have quite a few of their regs.

Thank you!

What's velocities are you getting with what ammo's?

I tried the 29's in my V3 which is tuned for 99 fpe with 60 grainers and the 29's shot horrible in it but they were going 1060 fps. Though the 29's shoot well in my Uragan King at 925 fps. This pic was 10 at 50Y with the King/29's and windy.


I don't shoot my V3 much because the Altaros 60's are pricey so I kinda need to find a cheaper solution for a slug to plink with.

So if i install a new ultra valve in the Delta wolf later does the soft ware need a update?

Two things.
Best results are with wadcutters.
Push the pellet in until it bottoms out.

I put a tiny little bit of krytox grease under the belt and it works pretty well. Better than having oil leaking everywhere. I have only had a couple of jams before greasing and those were with round nose pellets sliding back and forth. When you push them in until they bottom out, it flairs the skirt a tad.

Looks awesome.

I guess I never reported back. I was cruising through Motonet a couple months ago and on a whim busted a pair of Gamo 8 or 10x binos out of the box to check them out.

I looked up into the rafters all the way across the store, easily 50+ meters and I could see dots smaller than .177 pellets in the white paint. For 30 euros I took them home.

They work great for me at 50m. They do fall off near dusk but so does my diopter sight. There is a little chromatic aberration, but it’s not enough to really mess you up.

For the price, highly recommended if you can hold them steady enough to look through.

JEFFPPC said:

.177

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Nice!!

Has anyone purchased one of these swaging presses? If so, let’s see some slugs.

Loufish said:

The N50 ScorePage is live. Your club will be auto-added when scores are added.
Rangemasters can add planned match dates now.

Match Schedule

scores.national50.net

Example shows OG completed matches and Raton schedule (partial)
View attachment 532149

N50: https://www.national50.net/
FB N50: https://www.facebook.com/50National/
AirGunNation: https://www.airgunnation.com/forums/benchrest.558872/
Benchrest Central: https://benchrest.com/forum/forums/airgun-benchrest.19/

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Thanks for all the work that you do on this Lou!

A little knock off dremel and cheap Amazon rail adapters and I got it to work a new squirrel gun is complete

steve123 said:

I had a 375CT that was 34 pounds with a big muzzle brake. 350gr Hooker solids at 3250 fps. Between the brake and the weight the recoil wasn't bad at all. Not much problem hitting steel 2500 yards away.

When we went to finish load development at Ben Avery shooting range they kicked my friend who had a 375 like mine, and me also, out of the range, LOL??!!

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I took her out today for a little testing. This is just the begins stages of testing just to see what she’ll run at.

Sorry guys didn’t mean to hijack your thread.

Shootfirst607 said:

Or oes the ones they make work with the regulator? By the looks of the pictures it don't seem so..

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Thank you in advance and appreciate it very much.

Bigrob said:

Ok guys I made my mind up im ordering an Impact m4 600 mm in .30 cal what are some good pellets to start out with. Thanks. I have never owned a .30 cal pcp alot of .25 and .22 but never a fx or .30 can't wate lol

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There aren’t really a lot to choose from. Try on the 44gr first and you probably won’t have to look any further. JSB and FX are the same. Compare to the AEA.

trailhiker21 said:

Yeah I understand what you are saying, but since I don't have a tank and will be filling the gun direct, would that change things? Also curious if there's a reason why you couldn't leave your filters charged for a day while you are using it frequently. This would obviously require check valves on both sides of the filter and a proper bleeding process to depressurize when finished, but my thought is that this would save you that 5 mins every time you want to top off the gun. Then again, doing all of this might end up adding up to the cost of a small storage tank...

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I leave the tanks on my guns pressurized for months at a time. So, all things considered, I guess it would be OK to leave the filters pressurized for a day or two - something to consider.

JackHughs

Finally found the time to take HPR appart.
It seems that changing SK-OU7008 did the trick.

Thank you @manabeknives !

While I was at it, I changed SK-OU9003
Thing I don't understand is that what was wrong in the first place because I've changed ALL o-rings on HPR and LPR
Maybe something just didn't sat right...

Will it continue to leak remains to be seen...

Better off with slugs try the JSB MK11 knockouts they will pop there nuts.

dnye1986​

The slug isn't pushed completely into the liner, only enough so that it sticks without movement. A slight push with the thumb is all it takes to do that. Since it's conical, it self-centers.
Once it's 'stuck' in the muzzle, then it becomes your marker for clocking, instead of trying to mark your liner end and erasing it with removing/reassembling the liner tensioner.
1.) Remove the tensioner from the liner/shroud.
2.) Mark the 'clock' positions on the side of the liner that is sticking out from the shroud (most go at least 4 clock turns: 12-3-6-9 o'clock for instance).
3.) Insert slug with the etched mark into the liner, NOT all the way in, just enough so that it doesn't move, and is in alignment with say 12 o'clock. It should be sticking out past the liner muzzle a tad.
4.) Reinsert the tensioner watching that the mark on the slug moves to the correct location (Top Dead Center).
5.) NOW, remove slug with tweezer (BE CERTAIN TO REMOVE SLUG BEFORE FIRING!!).
6.) CHECK TO ASSURE THAT THE SLUG HAS BEEN REMOVED!! Test fire to verify POI.
7.) Repeat until all four 'clock' positions have been test fired by moving the liner to Top Dead Center (12 o'clock to 3 o'clock, then to 6 o'clock, then to 9 o'clock) and aligning the slug mark to each new clock setting after moving to Top Dead Center.
8.) After getting the 'clocking' complete, decide which one is correct (normally the one that prints closest to Top Dead Center), then remove the marks on the side of the liner that don't work and leave the one mark that does (say it's 3 o'clock, so remove 12-6-9 o'clock marks).
From then on, after the need to remove your liner for any reason, always use that mark (the one 3 o'clock mark) to align with the slug mark and then tighten the tensioner to align to the Top Dead Center position (AGAIN, REMOVING SLUG BEFORE FIRING!!).
It's a little tough to explain, so if you still have questions, just ask or PM to clarify.

mike

Vetmx said:

It’s been an issue for many many years. But it should never bite you again once you start working on the gun yourself. And if you don’t beat the piss out of the C1 with some dumb tune or use a flimsy little valve spring. Red loc-tite? Absolutely no freakin way. Chemically clean the threads and inside the C1, then use blue. If you clobbered the C1 so bad that you now have sloppy threads, replace the valve rod and C1 or whatever they are calling it now. I’m sure it has a new part number.

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This ^^^
just another reason not to YouTube your Impact. The list of negative side effects is long.
Happy to see the OP digging in and finding and fixing on his own. great guns just not for the mechanically adverse among us.