john8 said:

If you desire low power shooting you can simply turn down you're K1, barn safe to fire breathing monster.

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i do that too but the. i have to change zero

Looking good

Centercut said:

Very good, but not noticeably better than the standard Midas TAC 6-24x or the Midas BTR gen2 4.5-27x. Plus it’s bigger and heavier than those two.

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Looks like you’ll be in the gym more

Thank you for the report. Sorry I missed it and will certainly try to get to the next match.
Rick B.

Nattboy said:

I am going to get one but I may wait on the .25 caliber. I have the Bullshark in.22 caliber and I am very happy with it. What ever I choose, I will go to Rich at Airgun Revisions. He is a great guy. Please keep us posted on how you tune your rifle.

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I will! I had a chance to shoot quite a bit yesterday, but I'll wait as I'm still dialing in on several pellets. And I might eventually try slugs.

Here where I am in south Florida, we never really had them.. over the last ten years or so they have been scraping and building on every piece of ground around. More people and RATS! I shot one in broad daylight out of my live oak in the back yard about a month ago with my slingshot. ANOTHER reason I am looking into getting an airgun. Iguanas as well they have become an issue here in the last few years.

they still sell the good one I had this would be my only choice after using one..


Mark

I decided to go with four lanes and three targets per lane. My reasoning was at first to get more space and reduce workload. I am using what I have and if I can get enough participation we have the room and resources to expand next season.

I would like to see what THammer finds out too. Here is the problem, its hard to get information when the bad barrels haven't been returned yet? Also I have ran into this myself trying to take care of a problem someone has with zero cooperation from them. Troy is a great guy and would give the shirt off his back if you needed it. I have had personal experiences with him and he's always made it right.

Been a bit, but I couldn't find anything when I was looking to answer the same question myself.

Does anyone know the difference between these 2 models aside from barrel and tank lengths options?

Double post.

What a great break in session !

Man, I feel for you OP. These were some beautiful rigs. I've had to sell a couple that I deeply regret, so I feel your pain! Nice wood stocks can be especially hard to let go just because of their unique character.

Both of my RAWs are currently in chassis stocks, but I still have 3 wood stocks as backups. Two of them are nice, and one is a beater that I use when tuning. Ive probably had my 22 RAW in and out of that thing a hundred times!

Wow that's awesome..

In recent years there were 4-5 variations in hammer and valve springs. I have most of these, including a variation of hammer weights as well.
Back in time when I did my upgrades on MK2 I did some (honest) mistakes with replacing and tuning these. I could not get some nice decent tunes and a lot of disassembling, a lot of time wasted as a mechanic instead of just enjoy in shooting.
Soon enough I realized that the stock weight and hammer spring still the easiest to tune for a large variety of projectiles.
Many variables and many combinations to play ... if you have time and thick nerves.

For full slugs power - up to .25 or .30 cal heaviest slugs - take the heaviest hammer spring and lighter valve spring, it won't hurt if you bump up on the Reg.
In .35 cal you would need to replace to heavy tungsten hammer weight as well, but don't do that if cal 30 or smaller.

Update....after the Huma regulator installation,problem solved my results were exactly as those of Viking Airgunner 1st shot after 24hr sit within 3fps as the 50th shot and with a standard deviation of 1.6 after 50 shots I am now a Huma fanboy!!! Wish I had put one in my Impact from day one would have saved me a lot of headaches

SilentSquirrel said:

No dimensions also

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The dimensions of 0.5 l are 80x190mm and 0.8 l are 80x270, take a closer look as you scroll down.
Probably as manufacturers they expect larger orders, that's why I jokingly approached retailers and manufacturers.
Of course they should be asked to offer a width of 60 mm for the AG industry.

Scotay42 said:

Hammer is probably the same, but the plenum is not.

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True, but you can bring the reg to 160b so I assume 1000fps with the 13.43gr is still achievable

most of the Snowpeak produces use M3 and M4 fasteners except for the frames
now a picture or two could help
hex head key size has nothing to do with threads size but a 3mm grub screw will take a small size hex key than a 3mm hex head screw
the fix is unknow because the problem is not totally known

I have the older Prowler that was gifted to me. The owner hated the trigger and knew I liked to tinker. I first tried the roller bearing modification that was a lot better, but no where near good enough. So, I bought the Charlie de Tuna GTR trigger and that was a big improvement over the roller bearing, but still not what I was looking for. It did shoot great off the bench until I had a little mishap. I have a Feinwerkbau and several Weihrauch, and all of them have automatic safeties. The Prowler does not. I cocked the barrel and turned to say something to my buddy and managed to hit the trigger on the corner of the table. the barrel went flying up, and it was obvious that it now had a definite upward tilt. I bent it back to were it needed to be, but never seemed to shoot quite the same. Amazing thing is a new barrel for one is $18 from Crossman. The RWS pellets did seem to work the very well. Some of the larger diameter H&N did better, but not by much. I really liked the plastic stock on these. great for banging around in the woods.

Richfromohio said:

I just want everyone to know that Mike Ellingsworth is going tomorrow for open heart surgery. Please keep him in your prayers. I have never met him face to face but we are very good friends. He is a great man and loves the LORD JESUS. His health is in his hands and thy will be done.

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Healing over Mike and steady hands over the surgeons, in the Mighty name of Jesus.

This thread maybe of some help?

jccams said:

Ron, I'm curious, you state moly dries out too quickly. If a piston is lubricated properly, how long would you estimate the moly to preform the way it should? Does it matter if it just sits, or will it last longer if used periodically? I have many, as you know, that sit long spells between uses.

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I wouldn’t worry too much about “the moly drying out”. Moly is the gold standard for high pressure metal to metal lubrication. Moly should ideally be “burnished” into the compression tube. Where it is dry, and stays that way indefinitely. Moly, if applied correctly, will not diesel. If someone is less than careful and gets some grease ahead of the piston seal, or globs on some low grade moly grease, it may smoke for a few shots.


here is a quick tutorial on moly grease:


Moly grease, or molybdenum disulfide grease, works by leveraging the unique properties of molybdenum disulfide (MoS₂), a solid lubricant, combined with a grease base. Here's how it functions:

1. **Low Friction**: MoS₂ has a layered, hexagonal crystal structure, allowing its layers to slide easily over each other, reducing friction between surfaces. This is especially effective in high-pressure or high-load conditions where conventional liquid lubricants might be squeezed out.

2. **Extreme Pressure Resistance**: Under heavy loads, moly grease forms a protective film on metal surfaces. The MoS₂ particles adhere to the surface, preventing direct metal-to-metal contact, which reduces wear, galling, and seizing.

3. **High Temperature Stability**: MoS₂ is stable at high temperatures (up to ~350°C/660°F in air, higher in inert environments), making moly grease suitable for applications where other greases might break down. The base grease carries the MoS₂ and provides lubrication at lower temperatures, while MoS₂ takes over under extreme conditions.

4. **Anti-Wear and Corrosion Protection**: The grease base often includes additives that protect against corrosion and oxidation, while MoS₂ minimizes wear by maintaining a lubricating layer even under shock loads or boundary lubrication conditions (when surfaces are in close contact).

In summary, moly grease works by combining the low-friction, high-pressure, and high-temperature properties of MoS₂ with the sealing and protective qualities of grease, creating a robust lubricant for demanding conditions.

Alright, if anyone needs me I'll be over at Charles' house helping him try out all of these new airguns