Finally
- By houston
- General Discussion
- 16 Replies
This forum topics are starting to mimic the GTA forum..not good guys.
Upvote 0
Coulda swore cheap was mentioned several times …I believe you are looking for a Steyr pistol. Most pistols in this class are shooting 450 - 500 fps. Works out to only 3 fpe. The Steyr can get up to 650 fps so 6 fpe. Cost is relative to performance.
https://www.steyr-sport.com/en/air-pistols/steyr-lp-50-lp-50-compact
Lucky! Sky Harbor is exactly where I got denied.i got thru with a box of NSA slugs from AZ to OH. They did look at them but I talked the sweet lady into letting me thru![]()
Mine got slow as well, so I ordered a tuxing twin cylinder, and also a piston kit for the yong. The yong is now my backup compressor, it was a simple fixMy first PCP was a Benjamin Marauder Pistol. It is pretty similar to the Notos in terms of power and the amount of air it stores. I hand pumped it and was pretty happy with that until I got an Avenger. Hand pumping a chamber 3 times as large to 1.5 times the pressure was not OK. So I got a Yong Heng. It's 4 years old now and got slow filling my 45 minute Scott air tank so I ordered a new piston and haven't had time to install it yet. I do not use my hand pumps currently but I sure would if both compressors I own were not working. I like having a hand pump around to be sure I will be able to shoot.
That is a very nice variant of the "loose screw behind the trigger" of UDABEGGER above1) It's and airgun.
2) They require Human interaction.
Thanks for the method to use..I used most of it by cutting the end off of a co2 cart and serrating the end to grind the old hard o-ring . The seat looks to be ok 'cause I paced the grind and kept checking as i went . Have not pressed the o-ring into place tho' and that makes alot of sense in my mind an o-ring needs at least three surfaces to rest against to know where it is and I have been just letting it lay there...will definitely do that on the next go.,I have supposedly a group of new correct o-rings coming soon.Randy, I've been lucky enough to successfully repair some Benjamins with this setup without needing to replace the outer valve O-ring #2621 - but here are a few thoughts that may be useful:
1. Some folks use a home-made thin-wall 'hole saw' to completely remove the old, hardened O-ring (as in the video). Installing the new one can require a lot of force to compress it into the crevice - another thin-wall tool and ample lube should help, maybe some persuasion with a mallet. Note this is the same O-ring #2621 as used on the front cap.
2. Polishing the valve seat is critical - any blemish or corrosion will cause leaks.
3. The softer seal in factory-style exhaust valves may achieve a leak-free situation more readily than a harder Delrin version, by conforming to any tiny irregularities on the seating surface.
Good Luck!
Don R.
I haven't been able to get to the range yet but the sound level I can answer. My .22 at 50 fpe is very quiet. Much quieter than my Taipan Vet II in .22 at somewhat less power. So far it seems to be using about 4 bar per shot though so some tuning might be in order.So this approach is somewhat similar to the REPR regulator on the Leshiy2 where an external pressure gauge can be screwed in and a special tool is used for regulator adjustments (done externally on the L2). I'd have preferred a permanently mounted regulator gauge on the Slash along with an external control for the regulator which didn't require removing the cover plate first.
Many people will be satisfied to find a sweet regulator/pellet/fpe combination for hunting and leave it set for consistency.
I prefer to vary the power settings more frequently, bouncing between lower to reduce the sound levels for close targets, and higher to test FPE & performance for different pellets.
The need for an additional 'power kit' for extra low (under 12FPE ?) or higher than standard power settings surprised me at first. Though I've changed out enough washers in output regulators on air tanks and swapped out hammer springs to understand why is would be necessary for the more extreme settings.
Two other questions of big interest to many concern the sound levels. Not only do we need some accurately tested sound results at different FPE levels, but also some customer feedback whether or not there is a substantial Ping or other loud noise made close to the shooters ear on firing. I ended up selling my 1st bull pup because of an unacceptable ping/bang/whoosh noise next to my ear when firing. So far I haven't heard any 1st hand impressions on the new Slash other than vendor assurances that it has an effective shroud.
I think that the Huben K1 does pretty well on both of these sound questions, and the standard Leshiy2 shroud works pretty well at lower powers. I am very curious for a direct Huben K1-to-Slash sound comparison since I view the K1 as the main performance and cost competitor for the Slash. The L2 has substantial noise and air flow back near the the magazine when fired. But the shooters ear isn't resting on the L2's stock near the magazine when shooting, so it doesn't sound all that loud to the shooter compared to a loud ping from some bull pup designs. The L2 and the Slash both occupy similar price ranges when new, while a K1 costs about 25% less than either of those when new.
It'll also be interesting to see how many Slash end up in the classifieds a year from now. There was a wave of Leshiy2s in the classifieds for awhile as early buyers moved them along for something else. Lately is seems like there are fewer L2s on offer. And K1s come up for resale in the classifieds, though it seems to me like slightly more GK1s on offer recently.
It'll be another year or two before we know how well the Slash model line will hold up. Sometimes I see posts by younger (than me anyway) airgunners asking why anyone would be selling their 'almost new, top of the line' airgun purchased within the previous year. It isn't always because the owner was dissatisfied with the airgun. Many of the people who buy 1st release airguns are older and money isn't the big deal it was for them as young adults. The clock is ticking for them and now they can finally afford to own a bunch of expensive airguns all at the same time. They are often more interested in checking out a new product than in actually using it for anything, especially since they usually have a few fine airguns already gathering dust from lack of use. So they buy and sell a few airguns most years just to keep things interesting and they don't care very much if they sell at a loss. Churning through airguns is just another entertainment cost for them, and any money lost from selling an airgun is merely a rental cost for being able to own another fine airgun for awhile. Personally, if I had my choice I'd rather be young and broke again. Well, young anyway, the broke part was difficult.
Now, if they'd just get busy and design these *** airguns so they don't use any O-Rings that can fail. Firearms manage that with vastly higher internal pressures and usually for a considerably lower cost than airguns. I hate replacing O-rings, they are the main reason that most airguns cannot be depended on to perform 100% of the time in emergencies.
JP
Even when the winds are light the flags are always moving. We also had a bunch of mirage.Hey, that's my local range! I'm still tuning my new Blackwolf but I intend to join you in benchrest someday. I'm going to try NRL22 as well, when I'm ready.
How was the weather for the match? Crazy winds lately.
Don't bother picking up a "metric o ring kit" There really isn't anything of use in it. Better off spending the $30 on a pair of digital calipers so you can measure each o-ring individually and order exactly what you need. They are going to be metric. They come in half sizes on the diameter like : 2.5mmHello Nation,
I'm looking for an o'ring set that will help keep my rifles up and going. I am aware that there are vendors that sell reseal kits for certain rifles, but I'm looking for something more comprehensive and less specific. I have a Zelos that lost 500 PSI overnight, so I need to identify the leak. I also have three other rifles that will inevitably need o'rings in the future. Any recommendations?
ZV
Excellent solution!I faced the same situation as the OP: too many groundhogs and close neighbors. Experience hunting groundhogs in my youth with a 22LR taught me that they are tough to kill cleanly unless head shot, otherwise they will run off and die elsewhere - not good if they make it to adjacent property.
For this purpose I ended up buying a Benjamin Marauder PCP in 25 caliber. It is tuned to 45 FPE and has been effective on groundhogs to 55 yards (longest yet). It is very accurate, easy to shoot well, and quiet with factory "barrel baffle". It is quieter than my HW95 with moderator. The Marauder is an established platform and there is a lot of knowledge and accessories available. Downside is that it is very heavy and in total expensive.
In parallel with the Marauder I also use a Havahart single door live trap baited with cantaloupe or watermelon. Make sure to stake it in ground or they will turn it sideways and escape (don't ask me how I know). Most springers springer can dispatch them once trapped. In this way you can buy a springer that's fun to shoot, is within budget, and effective on trapped groundhogs.
Just in from work. 94's outside, 70% humidity. Clock on wall says 87 degrees in living room. But with ceiling fans, and mountain breeze thru windows it's not bad. Plus my electric bill stays below $100 a month year round. Work with guys that say theirs running 300+ right now.If you lived here in California, near Fresno, you would never say you never had an A/C in a 100 year old house. I grew up without A/C and swore as a child that on day I would live in the lap of luxury with an A/C in both my house and in my car...and I would use em both as much as I wanted!