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N/A  I want a cheap, really precise pistol with enough power to do small game

I believe you are looking for a Steyr pistol. Most pistols in this class are shooting 450 - 500 fps. Works out to only 3 fpe. The Steyr can get up to 650 fps so 6 fpe. Cost is relative to performance.

https://www.steyr-sport.com/en/air-pistols/steyr-lp-50-lp-50-compact
Coulda swore cheap was mentioned several times …
Anyways cheap is my Beeman 2027 mid priced for me is the Reximex RPA
i have in 22 and has taken the majority of squirrels of all my guns. It’s priced
from high $300s to high $400s. Have a Huben and Crosman 1701p also.
if I had to have only one pistol oh well I’d keep the Huben. But if I could have
two the Rexy it is.
IMG_1632.jpeg

Is it possible to”blue” zamac?

Lots of good info. Thanks everyone!
The thing that prompted the question was my Walther LP53 … the barrel is zamac but has a finish that looks much like blued steel. Not sure how they did that. I’m sure Walther has it’s own magic, but for us mere mortals I’m thinking about black chrome … if it can be applied to zamac, that is.

Taking the plunge into PCP

My first PCP was a Benjamin Marauder Pistol. It is pretty similar to the Notos in terms of power and the amount of air it stores. I hand pumped it and was pretty happy with that until I got an Avenger. Hand pumping a chamber 3 times as large to 1.5 times the pressure was not OK. So I got a Yong Heng. It's 4 years old now and got slow filling my 45 minute Scott air tank so I ordered a new piston and haven't had time to install it yet. I do not use my hand pumps currently but I sure would if both compressors I own were not working. I like having a hand pump around to be sure I will be able to shoot.
Mine got slow as well, so I ordered a tuxing twin cylinder, and also a piston kit for the yong. The yong is now my backup compressor, it was a simple fix

UTG OP3 3-12x44 and 4-16x44 scopes

As you may know I got a Accushot 3-12X44 on a trade and the mildot reticle is just a tad to thick for precision shooting. Since I really liked the scope really well, and was surprised at the lens quality I decided to take a look at the OP3 version of these scopes which is a bit of a step up, and with a very thin reticle. I found an amazing deal on Amazon (it might have been a mistaken price, for researching around the net), so I bought the 3-12X44 and it was fantastic. Later, the 4-16x version was the $10 more, so I bought one of them too. I have now checked out both on my Crown, Sniper and Dream Tac and they are simple great. All are clear, even up to 16x, I mean really clear. The tracking is right on also, which is a pure surprise to me. AO is darn close, maybe a bit off on the 3-12x, but close. No matter what it focuses very clear. I'm completely blown away by how well these scope are built.

Gripes, a few, but none are major at all.
* I wish they have more than 3" eye relief, but on the other hand it makes mounting on airguns much easier, as most have short receivers like the Crown and Sniper.
* The reticle is lighted, but only the center cross, I wish the whole reticle lit up, but hey, that's lots of scopes.
* The color picker is a bit wonky. It works as it should, but it's just weird how the colors go on the non red/green choices, but hey red/green work great.


That's really about it, they are super deals, so we'll see how they last. I've had UTG in the past, mostly the really cheap ones, and they worked ok, but were dark, didn't adjust well, and you know, they were just cheap stuff. But these new ones are really fine scopes.
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AEA  How to explain these differences?

I am in the process of finding a good combo pellet/slug and velocity for my AEA Challenger Bullpup .25. Today, while shooting a few 5-shots
groups I got these:
View attachment 571956

View attachment 571954
First group shot, 1" ctc, second group 3/8" ctc, third group 3/4". Same distance (32 yds.), same overall conditions. What can explain such a big difference between groups 1 and 2? Can something be concluded about the gun accuracy? This pattern of good/regular/poor groups repeat itself time and time again. Frustrating...




20250620_112920.jpg

AEA  What factors can explain these results?

1) It's and airgun.
2) They require Human interaction.
That is a very nice variant of the "loose screw behind the trigger" of UDABEGGER above 😅. BTW, I recently discovered and read with interest your story regarding your work with the AEA .30 with 32" barrel, finally shooting sub MOA at 100 yards. Really great stuff. Recommended.

I am debating if re-crown or not re-recrown my barrel, but after the opinions gathered in this forum, I will wait, and work on these others variables and my technique first, to see if I reach my goal of MOA at 50 yards, consistently, which means about 60-70%, with my bullpup. If everything fails, I will proceed to play with the muzzle, trigger , regulator etc , etc.

Benjamin 2600 re-seal

Randy, I've been lucky enough to successfully repair some Benjamins with this setup without needing to replace the outer valve O-ring #2621 - but here are a few thoughts that may be useful:
1. Some folks use a home-made thin-wall 'hole saw' to completely remove the old, hardened O-ring (as in the video). Installing the new one can require a lot of force to compress it into the crevice - another thin-wall tool and ample lube should help, maybe some persuasion with a mallet. Note this is the same O-ring #2621 as used on the front cap.
2. Polishing the valve seat is critical - any blemish or corrosion will cause leaks.
3. The softer seal in factory-style exhaust valves may achieve a leak-free situation more readily than a harder Delrin version, by conforming to any tiny irregularities on the seating surface.

Good Luck!
Don R.
Thanks for the method to use..I used most of it by cutting the end off of a co2 cart and serrating the end to grind the old hard o-ring . The seat looks to be ok 'cause I paced the grind and kept checking as i went . Have not pressed the o-ring into place tho' and that makes alot of sense in my mind an o-ring needs at least three surfaces to rest against to know where it is and I have been just letting it lay there...will definitely do that on the next go.,I have supposedly a group of new correct o-rings coming soon.
i'm gonna get this...Thx..!!
Randy

Sweet Baby Jesus! Just got my Vulcan 3 HP 200 bar regulator!!

Just a quick sight in at 100 yards. Shot three rounds to see impact & jerked the third but impacts were high so went down two clicks. Two in the bullseye and jerked the third again. At least I'm consistently screwing up every three shots :-/ but I'm not consistent in how I pull it, one was high and one was low.

Gotta remedy that.

The circles are 3/4" so without the two I pulled the Vulcan seems to like shooting these 65.6 grain slugs at 990 FPS. This weekend of more time see if I can get some decent and consistent groups at 100 yards... And work on trigger control, does kick a little bit more at 200 bar and heavier grain slugIMG_20250626_072518347.jpg

FX  Fx m4 .177 to .30, hammerweight?

After further reading, looks like my situation is completely normal for M4. They max out hammer tension at 125-135. Stock hammer is 6g. The 8-10g hammer on ebay is one solution. Another is just to use tuning method that starts with max hammer tension and turn reg up till I get to my target (920fps then tuned down to 880).

Taipan  New Slash videos posted by Taipan on YouTube

So this approach is somewhat similar to the REPR regulator on the Leshiy2 where an external pressure gauge can be screwed in and a special tool is used for regulator adjustments (done externally on the L2). I'd have preferred a permanently mounted regulator gauge on the Slash along with an external control for the regulator which didn't require removing the cover plate first.

Many people will be satisfied to find a sweet regulator/pellet/fpe combination for hunting and leave it set for consistency.
I prefer to vary the power settings more frequently, bouncing between lower to reduce the sound levels for close targets, and higher to test FPE & performance for different pellets.

The need for an additional 'power kit' for extra low (under 12FPE ?) or higher than standard power settings surprised me at first. Though I've changed out enough washers in output regulators on air tanks and swapped out hammer springs to understand why is would be necessary for the more extreme settings.

Two other questions of big interest to many concern the sound levels. Not only do we need some accurately tested sound results at different FPE levels, but also some customer feedback whether or not there is a substantial Ping or other loud noise made close to the shooters ear on firing. I ended up selling my 1st bull pup because of an unacceptable ping/bang/whoosh noise next to my ear when firing. So far I haven't heard any 1st hand impressions on the new Slash other than vendor assurances that it has an effective shroud.

I think that the Huben K1 does pretty well on both of these sound questions, and the standard Leshiy2 shroud works pretty well at lower powers. I am very curious for a direct Huben K1-to-Slash sound comparison since I view the K1 as the main performance and cost competitor for the Slash. The L2 has substantial noise and air flow back near the the magazine when fired. But the shooters ear isn't resting on the L2's stock near the magazine when shooting, so it doesn't sound all that loud to the shooter compared to a loud ping from some bull pup designs. The L2 and the Slash both occupy similar price ranges when new, while a K1 costs about 25% less than either of those when new.

It'll also be interesting to see how many Slash end up in the classifieds a year from now. There was a wave of Leshiy2s in the classifieds for awhile as early buyers moved them along for something else. Lately is seems like there are fewer L2s on offer. And K1s come up for resale in the classifieds, though it seems to me like slightly more GK1s on offer recently.

It'll be another year or two before we know how well the Slash model line will hold up. Sometimes I see posts by younger (than me anyway) airgunners asking why anyone would be selling their 'almost new, top of the line' airgun purchased within the previous year. It isn't always because the owner was dissatisfied with the airgun. Many of the people who buy 1st release airguns are older and money isn't the big deal it was for them as young adults. The clock is ticking for them and now they can finally afford to own a bunch of expensive airguns all at the same time. They are often more interested in checking out a new product than in actually using it for anything, especially since they usually have a few fine airguns already gathering dust from lack of use. So they buy and sell a few airguns most years just to keep things interesting and they don't care very much if they sell at a loss. Churning through airguns is just another entertainment cost for them, and any money lost from selling an airgun is merely a rental cost for being able to own another fine airgun for awhile. Personally, if I had my choice I'd rather be young and broke again. Well, young anyway, the broke part was difficult.

Now, if they'd just get busy and design these *** airguns so they don't use any O-Rings that can fail. Firearms manage that with vastly higher internal pressures and usually for a considerably lower cost than airguns. I hate replacing O-rings, they are the main reason that most airguns cannot be depended on to perform 100% of the time in emergencies.

JP
I haven't been able to get to the range yet but the sound level I can answer. My .22 at 50 fpe is very quiet. Much quieter than my Taipan Vet II in .22 at somewhat less power. So far it seems to be using about 4 bar per shot though so some tuning might be in order.

Results  Sunnyvale N50 match results for 6/20/25

Hey, that's my local range! I'm still tuning my new Blackwolf but I intend to join you in benchrest someday. I'm going to try NRL22 as well, when I'm ready.

How was the weather for the match? Crazy winds lately.
Even when the winds are light the flags are always moving. We also had a bunch of mirage.
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Taipan  Chart for Taipan Slash testing.

Taipan sent this to me the other day. I ordered the .22 and this caliber and the .177 and .30 have limited testing compared to the .25.

Notice the fill pressures ( initial pressure bar ) are all under the max 300 bar.
The .22 had only 235 bar onboard for the test, got 56 shots just below the reg pressure and the shot count seems it would be quite a bit higher with a full or close to full fill.

I would probably keep mine under 300 B as well but not as low as in the tests.

chart for slash.jpg

Recommended O Ring Kit

Hello Nation,

I'm looking for an o'ring set that will help keep my rifles up and going. I am aware that there are vendors that sell reseal kits for certain rifles, but I'm looking for something more comprehensive and less specific. I have a Zelos that lost 500 PSI overnight, so I need to identify the leak. I also have three other rifles that will inevitably need o'rings in the future. Any recommendations?

ZV
Don't bother picking up a "metric o ring kit" There really isn't anything of use in it. Better off spending the $30 on a pair of digital calipers so you can measure each o-ring individually and order exactly what you need. They are going to be metric. They come in half sizes on the diameter like : 2.5mm

N/A  old man that is newby to air guns

I faced the same situation as the OP: too many groundhogs and close neighbors. Experience hunting groundhogs in my youth with a 22LR taught me that they are tough to kill cleanly unless head shot, otherwise they will run off and die elsewhere - not good if they make it to adjacent property.

For this purpose I ended up buying a Benjamin Marauder PCP in 25 caliber. It is tuned to 45 FPE and has been effective on groundhogs to 55 yards (longest yet). It is very accurate, easy to shoot well, and quiet with factory "barrel baffle". It is quieter than my HW95 with moderator. The Marauder is an established platform and there is a lot of knowledge and accessories available. Downside is that it is very heavy and in total expensive.

In parallel with the Marauder I also use a Havahart single door live trap baited with cantaloupe or watermelon. Make sure to stake it in ground or they will turn it sideways and escape (don't ask me how I know). Most springers springer can dispatch them once trapped. In this way you can buy a springer that's fun to shoot, is within budget, and effective on trapped groundhogs.
Excellent solution!

Nickel, Dime, Dollars 😂

If you lived here in California, near Fresno, you would never say you never had an A/C in a 100 year old house. I grew up without A/C and swore as a child that on day I would live in the lap of luxury with an A/C in both my house and in my car...and I would use em both as much as I wanted!
Just in from work. 94's outside, 70% humidity. Clock on wall says 87 degrees in living room. But with ceiling fans, and mountain breeze thru windows it's not bad. Plus my electric bill stays below $100 a month year round. Work with guys that say theirs running 300+ right now.

I'd rather spend money on toy's. New barrel for my big bore is on way to dealer, that cost is still unknown. Need pellets once that's taken care of. And eye on another gun purchase.
Be warm won't kill me. Not having stuff to play with, now that would be torture.
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