shoot between the rain drops

MDriskill;

Thanks for looking in and your comments much appreciated. Yep their are some really odd folks out there !!! I have visited with a few in the past !!!!

PumaCarl said:

When you look in the slot where you are putting the tool, what you are looking at is the back of the hammer. What you are doing is sticking that tool in there so that you can wedge it in behind the hammer and turn it so that the lobe on the end pushes it into the valve, releasing the air. Yes, it will probably startle you the first time you get it right. It does take quite a bit of oomph to crack the valve open. I hope the explanation helps.

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Yes, great explanation! Got it now! Thanks PC!!!

As stated above lol . The chevron was and has been my answer for an affordable 1 moa replacement/substitute for myself that works perfectly for me over the years.

Georgii Arapov said:

I really like your set up. Is this painted ? Who make this skins ?

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Gunskins.com

The king definitely needs a bigger bottle. a 700 will be what i’ll put on mine.

Nice

BassMan said:

My 0.25 Condor shot 33.95 grain JSB's at 1100 fps for 91 fpe and this was with the power wheel at the lowest setting. I changed the top hat to a 0.166 oriface in order to reduce the power a bit. With the 0.166 top hat the 33.95 grain JSB's are shooting at 930 fps with the power wheel on "6" (max wheel setting is 13).

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Was literally just shooting my .25 Condor with the 120cc Plenum installed.

PW:4
Bottle: 4000psi
Regulator: 1500psi (yes 1500)
H&N Barracuda 30.86gr: 830FPS
Apolo Domed 25.4gr: 900FPS

Plenum and 24" barrel sure lets you set the regulator at a really low pressure.

Gravmag 5p for Crosman plastic breech.
Crosman 3622 with installed Gravmag 5p?

Its a work of art for sure, Wish I had the talent and skill and machines,
I'll post up pictures and a short shoot count when she gets here,,
Mike

Both bows are takedowns, but different pull strength.

No, they didn't change their name, they are still two different company's.
Arken did transfer there Zulus day and night scope line to DNT. (not sure how that happened)
Arken scopes may be held up because of the Tariff's!

niam11 said:

Yes sir. But do you mean dry for to empty the air tube?

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Mine came with a brass fitting that screws onto the tube, once it’s removed, and it lets the air out.

I happen to have a vulcan 3hp .30 if your looking for testers

finally found some time to put all back together pesky spring and all
tried out olympia domed pb free pellets 5.5 gr
got max 455f/s on my chromo quite surprising
pretty accurate at 10m
if only something can be done to fix that awful trigger

by the way anybody knows what that little stamp means at the right side of the .177mm stamp
i'll try to upload some pictures if i can find how to

happy plinking, johan

And down the Rabbit Hole goes another innocent, unsuspecting newb type person . Welcome aboard the "expenditure train". You'll know what I mean shortly . This is a great forum populated with lots of great people who are eager & willing to help. The search bar is your friend here but when you get stuck the "gurus" are likely to have the answers. Enjoy the ride!

I have a couple of questions though. I use Renewal Lubricants Food Grade EP grease for the piston and top of the connecting rod, as this grease comes in contact with the plastic piston guides and seal. I don't know the material used in either, and assuming they're not polyethlene or polypropylene, I'm guessing the grease is fine, but the fact that I don't know keeps me using a silicone based grease. Since it's plastic to metal contact, this seems a good choice.

I'm curious as to the choice of RnT for the piston in your case. Just trying to understand, not being critical. I don't know the makeup of additives in the RnT beyond it's lithium base.

I have had better luck, so far, in the gear box with RnT than GG, as the Green Grease seems to get pushed out, maybe not as badly as regular chassis grease but doesn't seem to stay in place as well as RnT. I ordered a sample of Chevron Open Gear Grease to try also.

I'd be interested in your thoughts, as I am a firm believer that this is the key to longevity of these compressors. Kept properly lubed with something that stays on the gears and used as intended, they will last a long time.

I've been out of town but just got your message. I'll reply via private message in a minute...

manabeknives said:

I'm definitely not a curmudgeon .. too afraid Karma will bite me in the ass for it

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Mike, Karma tried to bite me in the ass but missed because my ass is about 5" lower than it used to be

steve123 said:

Haha, yeah I didn't realize I had it backwards until I looked at the pic.

I already had the tension right so I didn't change it for that shooting session or I would have noticed.

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I have seen other folks face the lever to the front like you have in the photo. Their reason is usually that the pod-loc is a bitch to tighten down and also needs an 11mm socket wrench to adjust the internal preload. If that's your situation and your cal is a gen 2, then you might want to check out this thread:


Sorry again for the off-topic post.

stovepipe

This is some fire right there! Very well thought out design.

PK

Frank in Fairfield said:

AMAZON has them.

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Yes, I keep 5,000 on hand and just ordered more to arrive tomorrow.

I like it , not a fan of side mount AO.
4x12x40 is perfect for most springers. R7 excluded as it’s so small.

Mando video

update: i did get the regulator out. pulling it towards the bottle/muzzle direction from the tube. i think there is a slight scratch on the external o-ring, anyway i tried to sand down potential sharp burrs from the tiny borehole, greased up the o-rings generously and reinstalled the regulator. after filling up pressure, it held air again. at least no hissing winds from the breathing hole anymore, but after half a day the pressure went down from 300bar to a bit over 200bar. so something is not right. hope i will get those o-rings over here.

again thanks for the helpful comments here. i appreciate it.