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New pressures and a re-zero

Good day out working with the pressures. A member on another group asked about shooting in the 880’s to 900’s

Started at 800 and found a sweet spot that averaged 895 so re-zeroed at 30m and shot the JSB and the Zan 35g. Took that target to 50m and shot 2 more groups.

Found out when I get around the 190 bar mark I need to top back off as the groups start to open. Fun day working with it but flyers are a bugger 🤦🏻‍♂️

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Other  Which Bullpup style .177

I would pick either a P35 or a Stoeger Bullshark if budget matters. If you can swing a Brocock you won't regret it.

Diana  Diana N-Tec; Anyone still using one?

I love me a nice gas ram. I've picked several over the years such as an RX1, Meteor Super, and a few used Dianas NTECs, including an AM03, and two 340 Premiums (in .22 & .177). I've enjoyed all. Just as mentioned in previous posts here, the shot cycle and recoil is very clean right out of the box. They feel a touch lighter than their springer counterparts as well, which makes for nice handling

Been shooting the .177 340 all this week in fact while visiting family with some land and its been a blast. The thing is an absolute tack driver. Between the lighter weight and beautifully contoured Italian made stock, its easy to carry around.

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Its really too bad that Diana has given up on the NTEC platform.

Pyramyd pellet shipment using Amazon transportation.

I too have had issues with Amazon’s shipping quality. But whenever I buy predator gtos they always come bubble wrapped 1” thick around the tin and I haven’t had any issues with that through Amazon. Every tin has been perfect. But that’s about the only pellets I’ll buy from Amazon now… and Only when I’m in a pinch.

Light trigger...prove it.

I have three rifles and six pistols with very light pulls. Using a Wheeler digital gauge my FWB 602 ssp rifle comes in at about 1.7 ounces, the FWB 300s probably double that , then a couple of IZH 46m pistols in lower single digit ounces. FWB 65's and 80's probably around 3-4 oz each, been a while since I tested them.

I was sure my GX CS4 needed rebuilt.

It sounds to me these grease pot additions are a joke in itself and more problems than what they're worth....Nothing more than a marketing gimmick?

There are three common types of compressed air dryers: refrigerated compressed air dryers, membrane compressed air dryers and desiccant compressed air dryers.
* Refrigerated dryers-----Are used in heavy use operations where the compressor runs constantly in a shop environment. consist of an air-to-air heat exchanger and an air-to-refrigerant heat exchanger. If the shop temperature is high and or humid, these are the best. Take out a mortgage for these units, very expensive.
* Desiccant dryers----These are great for the release of moister buildup if a drain valve is attached at the bottom. These units are a must to use outdoors on a construction site in cold weather months. In the past, I have had my hoses and nailers freeze up.
* Membrane dryers---- Membrane dryers use highly selective membranes to dry the compressed air. They are able to achieve pressure dew points between +15 and -40 °C and are therefore widely used for a wide range of application. Take out a mortgage for these units, very expensive.
Ambient room temperature is key when filling your units. Nothing will last forever, even if you take out a mortgage to do so.....It's your money!
When used correctly, they work great.
How many posts do we see with people turning the pots from new to "get rid of the air gap".

My brother uses his cs4 a lot, he had it for a year and brought it over to have me look at it.

Not one time was the grease pot turned, yet nearly half the grease was gone. The compressor warms when running and is constantly sucking at that gasket. It will grease itself. At one point GX started telling to not grease it for 50hrs.

Well, his problem was a ripped o-ring on his fill probe. His compressor did the dead head at about 26sec. Beads were clean and drain tube still clear. The grease pot works fine, it's usually operator error...

Airforce  Regulator Choice for Airforce Talon SS

It may be that the spin-loc doesn't really need a set screw if one tightens it enough. But that tight might be more than the little spanner wrench that comes with the spin-loc can handle, especially for loosening it again someday.
To me spin-loc only makes sense if you don't regulate the gun.

FX  FX 22 cal. barrel liner I.D.

Have just picked up a new Impact M4 Sniper in .22 cal. and before I start testing loads of different slug diameters I wanted to do a little research into what the barrel ID is. Does anybody know if FX aims to achieve a specific bore dimension or do all the barrels get spat out with .003" to .004" tolerance?

And a second question...
If I have to go down the road of testing three or four different slug diameters what am I looking for when testing? Velocity changes, accuracy inconsistencies, a jammed slug in the barrel. What are some of the signs that determine one slug is too narrows and another too thick?

Answers and advice are greatly appreciated.

Dave
A PCP newbie.
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