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If you go to the ham forum there is loads of posts about this… for slugs reg at 2500-2600 psi, use hammer spring to tighten your groups up but it won’t do much for power…. Every video I see using .249 slugs has Lower velocities than I’m getting with .250 and .251…for example 850fps with 34 gr H&N’s while I get 895fps with 35gr Franco slugs.I have the .25 on the way..can you share your tune findings so far?Reg setting,slug/pellet weights and diameter.One guy suggests it shoots .249 slugs much better than .250.
Mostly from back in the days of THEOBEN where Unregulated was used more frequently.Any specific manifold that will work with the RAW?
I used equipment and fasteners I had on hand so i anchored the valve with 8-32 screws.Thanks for the info! The paintball tank setup sounds solid. Did you find HPA more consistent than CO₂? Also, any tips on anchoring the valve securely? Thinking of trying something similar.
I get it, but when you are just punching holes in paper, it is nice to have a full mag, and when that is empty, I need to fill the gun again,Wouldnt want that big thing sticking out of the side of my gun, would much rather take a break and just reload mags. Not much on the Tommy Gun look. Guess its great if you feel you need it.
Thank you for taking the time to break that down for me.Okay, got it...yeah it sounds like our terminology is getting crossed up. People typically use the phrase “all the way in” to describe the hammer spring being maximally compressed. But since you have tried moving it the opposite direction and found the shot count to get even worse, it sounds like your original setting was indeed at the minimum.
What we don’t know is whether this minimum setting is optimal for the new regulated pressure. When it was unregulated, you indicated it was working well over a pressure range of 200 bar down to 100 bar. What this would mean is, unless the regulator is set quite high—something north of 150 bar—the hammer strike is now too much and it is wasting air. This is a trivial thing to see with a chronograph by making slight adjustments to the hammer spring tension and checking to see if the velocity rises, falls, or stays the same.
Then what you want to do is find the maximum attainable velocity, and finish by reducing the hammer spring tension until the velocity falls just a little to about 95-97% of the maximum you found. When adjusted in this manner, it will use air efficiently and produce a stable velocity.
In the event there is not a sufficient range of adjustment to either go high enough to reach the plateau (max velocity) or low enough to see the velocity begin to fall, it signals the decision will need to be made to either alter the hammer spring (add spacers to increase preload, or shorten the spring to reduce preload, respectively), or change the regulator setpoint.
No problem. They might come from the same place, the one I ordered on eBay came from Canada as well and was about the same price.Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. Too bad I just placed an order from Wes in Canada for some other parts. I can’t find them on eBay but I guess I will just make another order with Wes.
Figured you saw it but wanted to make sure. I use Makita batteries so I just bought the battery powered GX CS2. i think you will find you will never need to hook it up to a car battery if you have milwaukee batteries. I would just get the battery powered CS2 and swap in a Milwaukee base plate and call it good.Yes I watched the video from Target Forge about putting a battery on a CS2. I don't want to do it exactly the same way but I like the idea. I will use the superior Milwaukee batteries, however![]()
My friend has my old M3 but has decided to use the 700mm sup heavy liner instead of the superior liner that i used, i found that superior liner to shoot alot of heavy slugs very well and he said i can have it back once my M4 arrives.It would be cool to see where those settings put you with a M4. It would have to be ballpark. It’s too late now and I hope it doesn’t bite you but if you truly had a sub MOA gun, you should have kept that liner.
Very coolThis JTS "Standard" started as one of the original "Testers" from about 3 years ago.
The internals have been a work in progress now having a Cobra valve w/ peek poppet, SSG devise and regulated too.
Full Blue print job, Trigger work etc rounded out the action modifications.
Glass an old school Hawke Varmint 2.5-10x42 1/2 mil having short eye relief perfect with the shorter LOP stock has.
The fitting of the JTS into an RH vintage Diana 75 stock done a few years ago & it turned out looking and fitting as if a factory offering ... So nice
OEM barrel was ok, but wanted match grade accuracy as all the previous work had the mechanical functioning just stellar being smooth and very low vibration.
Was using a KARMA .22 test barrel in it last year and while much better, still lacked what I knew rifle was capable of ..... So In went a RAW .22 cut rifling barrel at @ 23" w/ air stripper and a tensioned shroud having barrel held Very stiff !
It shoots near hole in hole inside 40y and still stacks em out to @ 80y using JSB 15.9's at @ 940 fps. The transfer choke knob still allows throttling the output down to the mid 500 fps range or anyplace in between.
On a 200 bar fill we are getting 5 mags ( 50 shots ) under regulation so the efficiency is quite good. Noise on just a shroud is a modest pop, screw on a moderator it gets shockingly quiet.
Previous thread with 1st barrel trial:
Airacuda maximised
Some other internal tweaks since has found another mag ( 10 ) shots in efficiency.
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