Vet 2 manual & parts diagrams.

View attachment Veteran-2-parts-diagram.pdf

View attachment Manual Taipan Veteran 2.pdf

Lewis- I think you will be pleased with the stock. I got my two today & put the green one on my .177. I like them both. The red one has some pressed checkering on the grip & forearm while the green one doesn't? Both stocks do not accept the plastic/rubber piece that covers the reg adj screw. I don't use them anyway but a little sanding & they will fit. Feels like a real rifle now!

Hello and Thanks ... went to an electrician today who understood the unit, but said ... try to buy another power supply ... Reason ... if $30.00 bucks, his cost to repair would be more.

Took it all apart this afternoon. We'll, everything except the valve. I don't have the special tool for that...and I think it unnecessary, it holds air and functions.

Watched a series of videos on YouTube that showed how to take all the guts out. Special trick getting the pump handle off the plunger so it can be removed and cleaned, etc. Made it easy-peasy.

Removed the trigger group, stoned the sear, lever and trigger contact points. Probably should have shortened the sear engagement 0.010" or so but for now, just getting the stamped edges clean made a big improvement. This thing isn't exactly Olympic level.

Oiled everything judiciously. Neats Foot oil (leather seals).

I did shorten the piston stroke 0.030". It was only coming back far enough to half-uncover the air hole. Pumping stroke is now slightly easier.

All back together, no issues, 6 pumps is still max. I think I'll try a washer or two under the hammer spring. Might get me a little more power. I'd like "as advertised" 550fps...

the L2 had aloud cycling sound.

Press fit a bushing and CF sleeve to allow for the barrel to extend past the frame and make it suppressor ready.

MongooseV8 said:

Cant ask for more than that, and you got a really nice stock on that one too. Congrats

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You really can’t. Reliable, accurate , massive shot count and can shoot slugs or pellets!

Just curious, are you using this with the Hypr-7 or standard scope? Also, is this for your DRS Tactical? Can't wait to see the results and your opinion on it.

.25 at 30fpe, the one I tested is 40 shots. I'd imagine at 6fpe I should over a a hundred? But I don't know if it scales this way.

I was able to make some elevation adjustments and a few windage clicks I got something I can work with. I’m a poor pistol shot, but this was 10 shots at sunset. GK1 V3 .25 shooting JSB King Diabolo pellets 25.39 grain standing shooting offhand at 10 yards. The circled shot is from sighting in on another target. The 7 target measures 4cm in diameter or roughly 1.57”. I know, my bootleg ruler says “mm.”


I’m happy I got my optic sighted with the help of @WobblyHand. Now I can practice more.

The Ghost seems like the best pick, based on your writeup. It might not work well with your current setup, but that's something you can adapt to fit the Ghost once you commit.

New, made in Spain on the left. I will be pleased, but surprised if they shoot as well.

Michael said:

My DRS Tac also has a purplish hue in direct sunlight... though you'd be hard pressed to see it now!

View attachment 566253

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I still dig the paint job.

Does it make a difference when you adjust the power wheel up or down? When you say low power, do you have any Chrony readings. This may help you.

Casting was definitely another rabbit hole after getting a big bore. Improvised ventilation fan in shed window, building PID controller, Lee lead pot, Lee press and sizing dies, 3 NOE molds and handles (got 1 machined for short lighter slugs), sourcing lead, building lead trap to recycle lead. And there's the time learning how, and doing it. Still culling out about a 3rd of what I cast, there's certainly a learning curve.

Huma-Air said:

Hi guys,

Due to some national holidays in Europe we are closed this Thursday and Friday. Our customer service will be back at work from Monday June 2nd trying to catch up with all email of these past few days

Thank you for your understanding and have a great weekend

Huub
Huma-Air

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Thanks for the reply , have a great weekend.

SPA does not always overpromise fpe. I just looked at Krale to be sure my memory is working and SPA advertises 22, 34, and 46 Joules for P35s in 177, 22, and 25 respectively. Mine will nearly make those numbers in fpe. My 177 easily makes 19 fpe, and the 22 is happiest at about 32 fpe. The 25 is more complicated but will certainly exceed 34 fpe. I have made some changes and it is giving me as much as 60 fpe. But it won't come close to that stock, low 40s is probably about the maximum. Point is SPA under estimates fpe in the P35.

I have no clue about the Max 1, never seen one. But one of the changes I made in my P35-25 was opening up passages in the gun and it helped.

Each pistol has its own unique characteristics that will require you to experiment to see which pellet works best for your particular pistol. I would suggest you buy a sample pack from one of the pellet manufacturers and find out which one works for you. The settings of hammer spring and other "tuning" done to the pistol will also affect accuracy.
jsb-testing-set-exact-.22

Above is one for JSB but other well know pellet producers have similar. Stay away from the new Crosman pellets, they are now made in Spain and are nothing but garbage.
Here is a similar thread with some suggestions for you to consider:

prod-marauder-pistol-likes-22-cal-meisterkugeln-standard-14-0-gr-the-best-other-options-to-consider.1273573

Massiemax said:

Yes, that was the culprit. Bit of a task to put back together due to chasing after small leaks. For future reference, should we be using sealants on the threads?if so, what kind?

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I generally follow what original installer used to ensure no leaks. If sealant, gasket, "O" ring, dowty seal or Delrin washer are used, I'll stick with same. (Some manufacturers include spare parts for this reason.) If original method damaged thru usage, age or dis-assembly, I'll replace. WM

Hello everyone, good morning. I have a few questions. Yesterday I was shooting my .22 caliber FX M4 sniper rifle, with the 1:16 scale heavy-duty liner and carbon fiber overlay, among other things. I shot 34-gram bullets, which worries me a bit, since I set the throttle to 160 bar and only achieved 940 fps. My question is: Is 160 bar fine at that velocity with the macro at 16 and the minimacro at 5, or is there something wrong with the throttle? I would appreciate your comments, friends, and your kind help.

i have used Ruger .22LR pistol sights from the rear for different projects and one of these would be a good replacement
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2844595080...b7VHbMZyn+laVYifm5aUaatMY=|tkp:Bk9SR7CEltrlZQ

red ryder said:

As for specs, RussDouglas 222 video from the British Shooting Show in February gave dimensions and weight. I believe he said 345mm long and 947 grams.

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Last weight I saw on the prototype unit was 951g with DNT rings and battery installed. Keep in mind the 4k scope does not come with an IR illuminator.

I would place the odds of a mid-barrel choke being intentional at 1:1000. It represents an unnecessary complication in the production of the barrel, carrying the risk that some percentage of barrels would end up with the tightness of the two chokes reversed, as compared to simply applying a single choke at the muzzle.

Many of the barrels I've lapped have tight regions at random places along the length, and some bad enough that they could reasonably described as chokes. I suspect your barrel is one of those.

Over time I have developed the opinion that finding a very tight muzzle choke (more than 1 - 1.5 thousandths) is an indication the manufacturer expects their bore dimensions to vary a lot.

Motorhead said:

My own built custom ....
Marauder G2 based with ONLY the Trigger group, Partial stock, Partial air tube being semi original.
Every other part & piece from someplace else.
Cruises at 90fpe and leaned on near 130 fpe.
Accurate to a shooters fault.

View attachment 566190

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If its only the trigger group and a piece of the stock and air tube from a Marauder…

… that’s a “Motorhead G1”…. not a Marauder G2, lol.

If I can find the time I want to start at 890 where I’m at now walk up to 930+ see where accuracy at 50yd starts to fall off “or maybe better?” Then go to 100yds and walk back down to see what happens??? It’s the 700mm heavy liner so I’m curious what a light pellet will do at low speeds fast twist at 100yds. I really know nothing about this gun/liner, I bought it just for 100yd BR at the PA cup and it shoots the AEA 50’s at 940 really well at 100!. Maybe someone with some experience will jump in…