Check with Utah Airguns. If they are coming to the US market, UA would be the first place to get them.

@dodge3500 The longer you shoot into that trap, the more those bales will get pulverized. Be mindful of the lead dust that will be in there once you decide to empty it. Some sort of mask and goggles are good to have on hand.

When it comes to "glass" (lenses), you get what you pay for... whether it's telescopes, binoculars, rifle scopes, or eye glasses.

There are TREMENDOUS differences in quality of lenses. Furthermore, there's Chinese glass... Japanese glass... German glass.

You can spend a LOT more than $500 on a quality pair of binoculars. Thousands. Same goes with riflescopes... You can spend $100, $400, $600, $1000 and $5000 or more. You pick!

When it comes to anything medical, overhead is much more (on a percentage basis) for a private care health office than it is a big factory that can leverage huge economies of scale. They assembly-line those cheap binoculars (and likely in China). Your top-tier prescription CUSTOM glasses lenses are an entirely different thing.

About 6 months ao, I got my first pair of prescription glasses. I had a choice of "tiers" for my progressive lenses. There are NINE tiers. The optometry office I go to only deals with the top four. They won't even bother with the bottom five. Since it's my eyes, I didn't want anything but the top tier... the best. Just the lenses for my glasses were $900. Add another $300 for the frames... and we're at $1200. Just this week, I got some prescription Maui Jim sunglasses. About $900 for those.

I could have "saved money" by going online... or getting them from the VA. But the level of service I got at a private optometrist blows them out of the water. And I paid for it. My first set of glasses (progressives) were perfect right out of the gate. I'm very happy with them. So many people report problems with progressive glasses, from poor execution and quality control problems to just having a hard time getting used to them. I had none of that. No quality issues and it was used to them almost instantly.

Comparing prescription glasses to cheap binoculars is just not a logical pursuit, IMO.

I'm posting this for Match Director Brian E.

Airgunners,
My apologies for the late field target match report, I have no excuses. We had a wonderful turnout for our first match of the year. It was a beautiful sunny day that ended up in the eighties. The bright sun made target visibility a challenge for some targets. We will make a change in kill zone color next month from day-glow orange to white, hopefully this will help. We had 10 shooters primarily due to the efforts of Dave and Rod who sponsored a fun shoot on range two last month. That event was so successful we will try and have it again next year.

Results as follows:
1st, Beverly E 43/48
2nd Dave B. tied with Joe K. 36/48
3rd Tony R. tied with Brian E. 33/48
4th Mark A. 31/48
5th Jason Blackburn 30/48 WFTF Piston
6th Richard P. 7/48
8th Rod L. tied with Charles S. 6/48

The scores reflected the difficult light conditions and the fact that we had several first-time shooters. We thank all of you and hope to see you next month.
Brian & Beverly

Well, bummer. Their calendar does have the matches scheduled, so take a look and maybe you can make one. If not, I hope to see you in Ashland next month!

gen 1 barrels were a little larger bore 22 cal . and some guys had better luck with accuracy shooting some of the H&N pellets that were a little over sized

My first airgun as an adult was a Gamo, and it had the same issue; wanted to shoot low. I got to experience the joys of MOA adjustment, with added springer flavor.

That is one beautiful gun!! (And I like the turret rest!)

Have you ys shot pellets? If so, how do they perform?

I wish I could make it but those damn CEU's are getting in the way. Good luck to everyone who comes, and bring your rain gear!

UDABEGGER said:

I willassume that a barrel that is .218 would not shoot smaller diameter slugs very well or as well as a .218 . Correct me if I am wrong but what about a .217 barrel shooting .218 . Any experience with and conclusions about this would be much appreciated . Muches grabass !

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That isn't necessarily true. Too many variables in barrels for an assumption like that.
I shoot a slug that's .0025" undersized a .2475" diameter from a .250" groove .243 bore barrel.
So don't let someone else's "facts" stop you from even trying different slugs.
A .218" in a .217" or 2175" barrel hasn't been any good in the barrels I've tried though.
Test, test, and test some more..........

Just as a follow up and ending to the story, the M10 to Foster adapter came with a Dowty washer. I installed that; snugged it up; bada boom, bada bing, no more leaks. It would have been nice if the Dowty washer was included with the filter but not a big deal. I like being able to connect/disconnect from the filter with the Foster fitting anyway.

Tony

I love seeing those NF 12x42br’s!

maxtrouble said:

I have a .22 Ghost. I replaced the grip with a Hogue AK grip. Simple upgrade but really paid off.

AK-47/AK-74 Rubber Grip with Finger Grooves

All Hogue AK Pistol Grips and Handguards are made in the USA and are section 922(r) compliant.

www.hogueinc.com

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Nice!

marflow 777 said:

PEP3 can you point me to that mount Brand or where purchased

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I like this one because it’s self centering, the hw40 rail is a little larger.

Someone else just posted gx said they identified something wrong with the boards in some of the cs4 I compressors. They sent him new parts and it fixed it. Gx should hook you up. In my opinion people should just buy the regular cs4. Seems they have less issues.

Has anyone developed a magazine for the Max 1?
Specifically the .25.

It was a good event. Had I been more proactive in replacing parts my score most certainly would have been better. So it goes with a springer. Thanks to all who attended.

JungleJim said:

Hello

Looking for some info for a scope to mount on a FX King! My distance of shooting will be 25 yards to a little over 100 yards. Mainly (red) squirrels, crows, pigeons and rabbits. Do you guys perfer 1st or 2nd focal point WHY??
Im open on price to a certain point. would like to stay around 500-700 dollars.. Will for sure take 100 yard shots.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!

Thx

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Hey man, sounds like a fun setup with the FX King! For 25–100 yards, I’d personally go with a first focal plane (FFP)—especially if you’re taking consistent 100-yard shots. Helps a ton with holdovers at variable zoom. Something like the Odin 1-8x from Gunnr has solid glass and a clean reticle that doesn’t clutter your view. Fits your budget too. Just my two cents—good luck and post some pics when you get it dialed in!

Motorhead said:

Similar to some relationships ... if one sides freely giving, the other is without conscious taking.
Sound familiar

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Agreed, MH.

But to avoid any potential confusion, I consider the AoA/TEXtreme Airgun Sports relationship to be mutually beneficial. So I'll take this opportunity to repeat something I state in every TAS shooters meeting (and elsewhere)-

I can't thank Airguns Of Arizona enough for their original and ongoing sponsorship support; without which TEXtreme Airgun Sports wouldn't even exist.

And FWIW, I consider the (only 10%) reduction of AoA's asking price on the Marauder to be nothing less than robbery...

On my part!

.

@kwaping Excellent obeservation.

MikeWarner said:

That's a brilliant observation about front-facing reticle glow spooking game! I learned this same lesson the hard way while night hunting raccoons - even the dimmest illumination setting that seems invisible to our eyes can act like a beacon to wary animals.

One trick that worked for me was using electrical tape to reduce the brightness control range, effectively creating a "sub-low" setting below the manufacturer's minimum. Another approach is experimenting with different reticle colors; I've found green at its lowest intensity tends to be less noticeable to prey than red in most conditions.

The most effective solution I've discovered is combining flip-up lens covers with careful positioning to keep the objective angled away from the quarry's approach path. It's amazing how sensitive rodents and other nocturnal animals are to even faint light sources we barely perceive.

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@MikeWarner Can you elaborate on how you are using the electrical tape? I don’t follow your explanation on how it is used create a setting below the manufacturer’s lowest illumination setting.

Well I know! I just wanted to find out which caused my problem. I truly subspect it the air tube. Then I,m going
into it after finding out no matter if that was the fix or not & replace them all. Fly

AlanMcD said:

Just clarifying that Jack probably means filling the tank in stages for the initial fill from empty. Most folks do top offs in one run, if the tank is not too depleted - say, from 3500-4500 psi or so . . .

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Just topped off my 9 liter with a GX cs4i . It took about 1 1/2 hours to go from 3500 to 5000 psi.
I have also filled 6.8 liter and 9 liter bottles from dead empty to 4500 psi in one shot. Took 5 hours
for the 9 liter no problem. GX used to have a 5 hour maximum run time. Gx’s get to their max temperature
within an hour and steadies there. I have added a larger coolant reservoir and radiator to my rig also.

Like @JimD says there is no concrete list of rules. It's trial and error, but i would start somewhere around 800 and work my way up till groups fell apart or the gun starts talking (getting wasteful) for pellets if you can send them that speed... Which you should be capable of. One of my guns is happiest below 500 fps being an old pistol with the jsb 18 grain pellets. My impact when it shot pellets seemed to show its best precision at about 900 fps with those.

Just let your rig speak to you, there are signs when they're happy. Do you know whose barrel your mrod has, and is it regulated or not?

Bear-of-Grayling said:

Amen. I replaced a HW55 breech seal decades ago from leather to a new synthetic one. It protruded out so much it caused barrel droop. Many of the factory synthetic breech seals of the 80’s were cut off flush with a razor knife because of to close tolerances. This is a closeup of crows closer. Clearly not tight. Start small then keep going when necessary. View attachment 573885

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I didn't actually realize how far off this thing is at first. Sure is hung up by something but a bit like trying to diagnose car (or woman) troubles over the phone.
When I was a mechanic many years ago another guy's tool box had a sticker:
If it has teets or wheels
It'll give ya problems

MDriskill said:

The HW 55 always had a super close-fitting leather breech seal, with a unique touch: the bottom of its recess is slightly angled - a bit deeper at the top than the bottom. No idea why, or how they machined it! I have successfully put synthetic seals in a couple 55's but it took careful sanding on the inner end.

On the other vintage HW's originally with leather seals (HW 30, 35, 50), the recess is of uniform depth. The plastic seal was in theory a drop-in replacement, but as you note it still pays to check and tweak.

Trivia time: legend has it that HW's plastic breech seal was developed for the rare "Barakuda" ether-boosted rifles, which shredded the leather ones! This is why their seals to this day are a cylinder instead of a simple O-ring, etc. I've also heard the heavy H&N Barakuda pellet was designed for those guns, which originally fired solid balls as they blew right through the heads of lesser diabolo pellets...

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Mike is too cool