Here is Huma answer , still trying to figure it out without disassembly . Raymond,

I would like to request to remove it.
I know you didn't want to but for your rifle it can either be a Gen1 or Gen2.

Shipping one and then having the wrong one would be a bummer to happen.

OldVet said:

Shows 149.13

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Expired the 5th

I also made my first pull thru made with a loop in the end and made with self braded Dacron fishing line . Now 20 years old and still strong as ever.

Did you ever see the movie “ The quick and the dead”?
I think Gene Hackman’s character suffered a similar end. He actually saw the hole in his shadow! LOL.
Gene Hackman, Leo DiCaprio, Sharon Stone and a bunch more.

Hunter

kevin10 said:

I'm not positive but I believe thats the way the trigger base is supposed to be. There is a set screw on the trigger assembly that engages the safety post. Pretty sure thats how it was on the boss I had. Newman at cape fear would be the one to ask.

FX Boss Trigger Wedge

Anyone know the best source for replacing the Boss trigger wedge? The tip has sheared off such that the safety no longer engages. Thanks for any help/tips.

www.airgunnation.com

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This one is clearly broken, raw metal on the end and no way for the safety to engage.

I concur with all the above comments. I just installed the Rogueair trigger spring kit as well and it is a night and day difference. So smooth now.

6gun said:

Pop out an end, drop the "baffles" take some measurements and baffle counts and cut it with a chop saw or tube cutter. Back when I ordered from him, you could specify length.

There's enough info on what they're made of, i just don't want to step on his toes at all. If you 3d print or have a small lathe there's options there too.

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Thanks for the info. Thats what I needed to know!

thanks OAF.....very helpfull. the one they sent from amazon.....for 7 bucks. had 3 tabs, couldnt get it on!!!! thanks for heads up and saw a picnow know what i need. apprecite.

Motorhead said:

XXXL size condom works too ... don't inquire how i know this

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Only works on my scope. Too small for other use

I've been toying w/getting a thermal for pest control as I have an influx of packrats and doing night shoots would be more effective than other means of pest control. Given the relatively limited range of the rifles I have, I don't see the need spending thousands on a thermal when I shoot maybe 70 yards at the most. But, Athlon's new offering of the ATS Pros in either 25P-250 or 35P-400 seems to ring the bell. I am wondering though if the 35P-400 may even be overkill? I don't have any experience w/thermals and thus am wondering if the resolution of the 25P-250 would be sufficient for my needs (distance to target would be about 30 yards on average, 70 yards at the most, w/bodies of the packrats at my property being about 5 inches long, 3 inches tall)? I don't do any other hunting so the thermal would not serve any other need and I'd keep the scope on whatever rifle I designate for that purpose. One huge issue would be signal sensitivity, however Last year our summer was extremely brutal and for several months our nighttime temperatures remained well into the 90's, at times approaching 100 F. Leaves me wondering whether thermals under such conditions would even be able to produce an interpretable image especially since ground temperatures were higher than the ambient air. There is very little user-based information on these scopes (maybe bc they are so new?). If any of you have direct experiences working w/these units, I'd be very appreciative of your advice and feedback.

Or, would a high quality night vision scope be an effective alternative?

Thanks,

D

R10s are amazing at short range. For 10m it not sure they can be beat

Misguided said:

Thank you very much!!

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I ended pulling the rail to air it up....

DonEnzone said:

Huma and Krale are both respectable companies though, so I highly doubt it's vaporware. If you're interested in buying one just give them a call or shoot them an email.

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I'm not $2360 interested. Maybe half that. I also thought lcs was extinct. And the airgunbase web site .......has anyone used them?

WOW Tim, 30 competitors! That must be like herding cats.
Eastern Sierra is nice this time of the year.

maxtrouble said:

What are you hunting that takes this much energy to kill? Bison? Wolly Mammoths? Tanks? Trains?

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Moose, black bear and grizzly, Bison, Elk, Huge hogs.

Customer service above all things. The other criteria will fall into place. I've had good experiences with Trenier, AOA, SPAW and Utah.

I have an Advantage and for the price/application it is ok. I have two Sidewinders and for the money I like them except for the reticle choices.I had an Air Max, hated it instantly, it left almost immediately, well the replacement as the parallex adjustment died in 2 weeks. I looked through a Frontier and was really disappointed with the glass. I have 6 Sightrons love them all. 4 STacs and 2 10-50×60 SVEDs.

Thanks for the info.

Motorhead said:

Well, as your well aware of any air on the HP side of a regulator will not and cannot contribute to the shot being taken.
Now place equal to set point pressure upstream of reg and the reg will basically be in bypass or a state for seat weeping never closing down and regulating itself.
* Would guess this would not be ideal as in plenum pressure might be sorta bouncy in holding stable ? .... tho a WAG

Now place regulated air directly into plenum and being the fill foster can flow a lot more than the regulators seat ... you may gain effective plenum volume somewhat * Downside being if the upstream HP side of regulator DROPS BELOW the pressure your putting into plenum the sealing medium ( Soft side of seat ) might suffer crush damage as there is really no way to guarantee the seat will stay open allowing air to equalize either side ????

You understand how regs work ... so no class lesson required.

Just thoughts ...

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I wrote my jibberish and read this in between, so I had to post it anyhow. I agree with you.

I think the same tune (or nearly so) for pellet & slug is doable depending on your expectations. I tune for slugs looking for MOA at 100-150 yards because that’s harder to achieve. A few clicks on the macro wheel or just turning the valve in allows me to stack JSB MRD’s at 50 yards, so any pests within that range are in real trouble. It may not be the ultimate tune for the pellets but it will make a ragged hole at 50 yards. My thinking is that pellets are easier and short range is easier so that’s where I compromise.

By the way, has anyone gotten the JSB Jumbo Beasts to perform? If so, what was the recipe? I spent limited time with them and the 1:24 twist standard liner and they stunk.

Martin3528 said:

My biggest bone head mistake was getting started in this whole airgun thing!

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And here i thought i was the only one .lol

Took a utility knife and made an orientation mark pointing rearward towards one of the trigger group fasteners. Should make orienting the flat on the safety cylinder much easier next time.

Hate , what an overused word . almost lost it's meaning .

DonEnzone said:

Mine's also in .25, but I don't think they sell slugs that heavy where I live. The heaviest Ive seen here are 40 grainers.

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I'm currently trying these out on my Vulcan 3 HP.
So far they have showed potential. Way more than any .253 before them.

drug2 said:

I managed to repair my compressor.

for further repair questions or problems:

View attachment 568092

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I consider the compressor (Tuxing?) in the photo to be a Yong Heng clone-type. Parts can often be swapped between types, but converting/swapping between a Yong Heng-type (with high-pressure outlet at top of cylinder head, into a high-pressure junction block on the right, and with a low-repressure junction block on the left), and a clone (with high-pressure outlet on the side of the cylinder head).

The high-pressure piston & cylinder are different size between YH and some of the clones.

*Just some stuff in case it is of value to someone.