Hajimoto has some videos out to adjust those regulators. If you’re going to use that one, he can help you.

I picked up the American Defense MFG mount that fits the Zulus and it is great for the Ranger.


Got the Zulus right where I want it, much lower, and still clears the magazine.

Also got it over the chrono today, getting about 647fps with the GTO lead free 11.7gr so just under 11fpe.

Gotta figure out my zero now.

keith1 said:

are you happy with the wildcat?

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I am, like it alot! For my damaged arthritic frame its heavier than i’d like (wisd, elbows, shoulders all fubbed up) but gettin old is an exercise in “adapt and overcome”. We get along pretty good.

@Gr8Recreation I figured that was it. Either that or I would’ve found it odd that there have been two that passed through their hands within a month of each other. I’ve always wondered, how is the reticle under low light conditions? Is it easy to see or is illumination necessary?

markhooper said:

your brave, id be totally scared to get that close to the skunk dead or alive.. because I'd worry that I'd somehow get sprayed
Mark

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I've tried to find the location of their lungs, I'm spending a fortune getting rid of the critters here, time to get a touch more violent. BUT I too am very leery of them spraying. If it wasn't for my dog I mostly wouldn't care.

I just bought four of these from this gentleman. Quick service and well packaged. I believe he works for Pyramyd Air.
He gave permission to post his contact information. These are for the original Rainstorm, not the II model.

His email for contact is [email protected]

As I wrote, he gave permission - and I specifically asked about it. Reason being I have seen older ads on here looking for these magazines.

zerochance said:

I got the Primos Trigger stick tripod. I like the adjustability but the trigger/palm rest is plastic and flexes when you put on a gun. That's my only gripe about it.

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I have those as well, that's why I got the National Geographic one, it's cheap, sturdy and solid!

it might be that the majority of hobbyists are hoarders.. or hobbies are a precursor to becoming a hoarder.

Leaders are GK1, Vixen and DRS.

I think I'll keep my cheapo CO2 gun and sell my AGT Vulcan.

Coming to a classified section near you!

Your leak was from the bottle end of the air passage that connects the output of the 1st regulator to the input of the 2nd.

The passage is through drilled, tapped at each end and plugged with o rings and grub screws.

Yeah, incredible shooting - even if he hit the wrong balloon on the first shot, he corrected and smoked it on the second try.

What really hit home was the time delay between the shot and the impact.

Interesting to see, I'm a technical kinda guy but a basic rangefinder is the limit of my interest in gadgetry for shooting. Fortunately (or maybe not) that doesn't apply to accessories and electronics for fishing

Cheers!

marflow 777 said:

there is an old idea that say never adjust for the center but off to the side
you are shooting for group for the most part and leaving the bull undamaged gives you a clean aiming point

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Yea after the 1st shot i did kinda have to aim where I thought it should be.

borne2fly said:

For anyone with a Beretta m92 ...

These pictures show the wear on the loading ramp after only around 200 shots with steel BBs.
Only the right side is shown here but the same wear is seen on the left side of the ramp as well.
This does not bode well for longevity, at least not with steel ammo.
Maybe lead BBs would fare better, if they don't jam the gun. Something to try.
For now I'll restrict this to AGS plastic BBs, at least they won't damage the ramp any further.

For comparison:
I examined my Springfield Armory 1911 for similar wear and found nothing, even though it has seen a lot more use (with all steel BBs).
Not sure if it has a shallower ramp angle.

View attachment 551295

View attachment 551296

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That sucks. Luckily I have the 92 FS. Pellet version, rotary magazine.

WorriedMan said:

Understand there's a Facebook group of Avenge-X owners who discuss pros and cons of barrel band, might check it out. WM

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Thanks

Kgphotos said:

Glad to see it worked out for you. I was looking really close at the FWB Universal recently; and a bunch of other ten meter rifles. I ended up going with a Walther LG400. How do you like your FWB overall?
Kenny

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Overall I like it. The build quality seems good. I looked at the LG 400 also. It came down to grip and hand fit. It didn’t hurt that the FWB is built in Oberndorf which is also Mausers home. I lived several miles from Oberndorf when I was young and collect many weapons made there.

Huma also sells reasonably priced kits, but the shipping can be steep. If you pair a kit with a bigger order it makes sense. Otherwise you might consider putting in an order with an oring supplier for a pile of the individual sizes needed. FX has a nice support page you can find the parts diagram with a nice list of oring specs.

I have often noticed changing say 20 CM to a side from a target i have been shooting to another, and BAM its is like someone handed me the wrong rifle to shoot with.
This also in effect going to a target above or below.

Hence why i was so hyped when i shot 2 nice 5 shot groups in a row at 86 M a while back

Martin3528 said:

I was intrigued by the ad for a new tank bag, so I figured, what's to lose? I have owned the bags by Saber Tactical and Primal Gun Gear. Overall, I am really impressed with the quality of this bag. The stitching is very good, lots of pockets. The only drawback I see is the amount of foam is a little less than I would like. This was fixed with a piece of foam I had laying around the shop. Here are some pics of the bag. For about $60 including shipping, this is a great option. The company also has tanks and valves, but I have not tried them.

View attachment 550367


View attachment 550366

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wow that's a nice bag. I have the one for the CF tank and it's great for the price.

I'm test driving a new P-2, and so far I'm getting good groups with JSB 18.13 (nickel size groups @50 yds, 970 fps). I also have a small tin of the shallow skirt 20.83 RDMs, those were ok, not great compared to the 18.13.

Any of you RTI guys have recommendations? Has there been any improvement with the current JSB RDM 25.39 shallow or deep skirts?

I’m good with whatever anyone has been successful with.

I’ve had decent results with H&N barracuda’s at around 35 ft lbs.

humbled.ag said:

What platform?

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Gamo TC35L branded Evanix Rex long barrel rifle

Bramezy said:

I had also thought about thick aluminum. How has it been holding up

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Dings in the plate, nothing comes close to penetrating.
Just have to change out the rubber or the DINK sound gets pretty loud.

Search YouTube for Hajimoto Gauntlet videos, big help in dealing with my original .25. WM

The P1 looks good, the other two have rust on them.
I recently got lucky on a package deal for a P1 (which was all I wanted) and a Benjamin Trail NP Pistol (which I knew nothing about). Both were listed as for parts or not working, but the seller stated he got them from an estate, didn't know anything about airguns, and hadn't tested them.
The P1 is an early model (pre lawyerese) and appeared to not have been shot much. I cracked it open to see that the grease had dried out, so I took it apart and re-lubed. Couldn't see any wear on the internal parts at all. Shoots really well.
The Benjamin pistol also appeared not to have been shot much, but this model was famous for a poor lockup. I could gain 100fps just by holding the barrel up when firing through my chronograph. I fixed the lock up with a much stouter piston latch spring. Yesterday I tried to order new seals from Crossman/Benjamin, but someone had just cleaned them out of piston seals, and they won't have any more until end of April.
It will be interesting to see what the above group sell for.

Wiping the dust off and washing your hands takes care of 99% of your exposure problem. No special soap needed.

Super fine lead dust on surfaces is very soluble. Cleaning vinegar or dilute acetic acid wipes work on most surfaces.

Inhalation and ingestion of fine particles are the main risk. Wear a mask when shooting indoors and wash your hands with soap and water afterwards.

I've dealt with lead in construction all my life. I've remediated lead radiation booths, lead ceramic tiles, asbestos materials, crime scenes and chemical spills.

Unless the area is severely contaminated or you are crushing lead ceramic tiles into dust a soapy rag and a handwashing is all that's needed. The hazard in in the micron sized particles in the air that you breathe. A mask will be about the best you can do unless you wear a proper cartridge respirator and a tyvek suit.

There are lots of lead test kits. They are generally acetic acid wipes that you use on a surface. There are instant tests and there are tests you send to a lab. There is XRF testing. If you are worried or just wondering about it test it! If you have a problem clean it and then test it again.

There are dozens of materials analysis labs that can help you out. Any construction outfit, engineering or architectural firm can hook you up with someone who can test the air when you are shooting and the surfaces around it. If there is a concern it would be worth the cost to know if you have a problem.