Shootfirst607 said:

Or oes the ones they make work with the regulator? By the looks of the pictures it don't seem so..

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Thank you in advance and appreciate it very much.

Bigrob said:

Ok guys I made my mind up im ordering an Impact m4 600 mm in .30 cal what are some good pellets to start out with. Thanks. I have never owned a .30 cal pcp alot of .25 and .22 but never a fx or .30 can't wate lol

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There aren’t really a lot to choose from. Try on the 44gr first and you probably won’t have to look any further. JSB and FX are the same. Compare to the AEA.

trailhiker21 said:

Yeah I understand what you are saying, but since I don't have a tank and will be filling the gun direct, would that change things? Also curious if there's a reason why you couldn't leave your filters charged for a day while you are using it frequently. This would obviously require check valves on both sides of the filter and a proper bleeding process to depressurize when finished, but my thought is that this would save you that 5 mins every time you want to top off the gun. Then again, doing all of this might end up adding up to the cost of a small storage tank...

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I leave the tanks on my guns pressurized for months at a time. So, all things considered, I guess it would be OK to leave the filters pressurized for a day or two - something to consider.

JackHughs

Finally found the time to take HPR appart.
It seems that changing SK-OU7008 did the trick.

Thank you @manabeknives !

While I was at it, I changed SK-OU9003
Thing I don't understand is that what was wrong in the first place because I've changed ALL o-rings on HPR and LPR
Maybe something just didn't sat right...

Will it continue to leak remains to be seen...

Better off with slugs try the JSB MK11 knockouts they will pop there nuts.

dnye1986​

The slug isn't pushed completely into the liner, only enough so that it sticks without movement. A slight push with the thumb is all it takes to do that. Since it's conical, it self-centers.
Once it's 'stuck' in the muzzle, then it becomes your marker for clocking, instead of trying to mark your liner end and erasing it with removing/reassembling the liner tensioner.
1.) Remove the tensioner from the liner/shroud.
2.) Mark the 'clock' positions on the side of the liner that is sticking out from the shroud (most go at least 4 clock turns: 12-3-6-9 o'clock for instance).
3.) Insert slug with the etched mark into the liner, NOT all the way in, just enough so that it doesn't move, and is in alignment with say 12 o'clock. It should be sticking out past the liner muzzle a tad.
4.) Reinsert the tensioner watching that the mark on the slug moves to the correct location (Top Dead Center).
5.) NOW, remove slug with tweezer (BE CERTAIN TO REMOVE SLUG BEFORE FIRING!!).
6.) CHECK TO ASSURE THAT THE SLUG HAS BEEN REMOVED!! Test fire to verify POI.
7.) Repeat until all four 'clock' positions have been test fired by moving the liner to Top Dead Center (12 o'clock to 3 o'clock, then to 6 o'clock, then to 9 o'clock) and aligning the slug mark to each new clock setting after moving to Top Dead Center.
8.) After getting the 'clocking' complete, decide which one is correct (normally the one that prints closest to Top Dead Center), then remove the marks on the side of the liner that don't work and leave the one mark that does (say it's 3 o'clock, so remove 12-6-9 o'clock marks).
From then on, after the need to remove your liner for any reason, always use that mark (the one 3 o'clock mark) to align with the slug mark and then tighten the tensioner to align to the Top Dead Center position (AGAIN, REMOVING SLUG BEFORE FIRING!!).
It's a little tough to explain, so if you still have questions, just ask or PM to clarify.

mike

Vetmx said:

It’s been an issue for many many years. But it should never bite you again once you start working on the gun yourself. And if you don’t beat the piss out of the C1 with some dumb tune or use a flimsy little valve spring. Red loc-tite? Absolutely no freakin way. Chemically clean the threads and inside the C1, then use blue. If you clobbered the C1 so bad that you now have sloppy threads, replace the valve rod and C1 or whatever they are calling it now. I’m sure it has a new part number.

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This ^^^
just another reason not to YouTube your Impact. The list of negative side effects is long.
Happy to see the OP digging in and finding and fixing on his own. great guns just not for the mechanically adverse among us.

Can you share with me the highest you pushed your regs? i know its 160bar for the fx reg but maybe you pushed it to 170, 180 without breaking it, or maybe you broke it- i would like to know, thanks

I really like my Taipan Vets . I ordered a Vet standard in .22 cal a few years ago and liked it so much ordered another Vet short in .177 about a week later . I was impressed with how quiet , smooth and accurate they are . No need for an extra moderator that adds to length , at my power levels . They came with a single shot tray , 2 mags and extra O-rings. I picked them up for $1100 each and they are my main pesting airguns and occasional target shooters . A solid well build airgun, and for plinking in the back yard or shooting tiny groups I would bet the Taipan 2 would be a great choice.

I am using the big air mags in my bullshark, and I have to agree they are great.

hello to all new to the forum and was told this would be the site to ask questions
i have a fx impact m4 22 600mm and I'm looking at getting the compact barrel kit.

does anyone or could anyone take a measurement of their compact from the front of the picatinny rail where the shroud comes out
to the end of the shroud where the moderator meets.
looking for a different bottle configuration with the shorter barrel as i have a 480 and 580 cc bottles.
thanks for any help, seems to be a very informative site.

I need some real time somewhat emergency help. I’m literally out hunting iguana as we speak and the mag catch on my avenge x tac carbine is apparently not working. Mag just slides right through. ANY help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

ChrisT said:

Junk yard Bauer , now that was a great find.

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Yes it was. I found it 25 years ago, long before I got into PCP. It sat in my garage gathering dust. It was just the pump. I then constructed a base mount and motor drive as well as all the controls, plumbing, electronics and safeties. These parts alone cost me about $1000, not counting my time. The takeaway here is that parts were still available. The compressor was manufactured in 1968.

Dan762 said:

It would be very appreciated if you passed that tip on.

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O at the time it was to just add a drop of oil to the probe o rings.
it worked then but occasionally leaked till I took it apart and forgot
if I replaced any o rings or cleaned and regreased but it’s been full
for a month.
I don’t know of a nicer pistol for the price.

CimpatYli said:

I currently have a UX Notos and it’s been amazing, did a bottle mod and improved the shot count to 150 and power as well just a bit, but I’m looking to upgrade in the near future
So I’m wondering if any of these is a good upgrade as well (my main purpose is pigeon hunting and pesting of other birds and also squirrels and other such pests)

Fx Maverick Sniper
BRK Ghost HP
AGT Vulcan 3
Epic One

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My buddy and I do a lot of pigeon hunting and he uses a P-Rod and I hunt with a Vixen Compact in .22. Check out his YouTube channel, Airgun Retirees to see some of our hunting exploits.

pesty3782 said:

I do not, but mine had the newer valve. Not sure on upgrades from the original design.

Tony P.

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Ok thanks Tony. If you find out anything on Improvements, please post it. After Reading through the threads, your post is one of the only ones that I recall mentioning a new valve or improvements.

Flpanhandler said:

Yeah I get that, and it looks great with the M-lock bipod. I’m just saying if you’re planning on producing them to sell, a lot of people already have pic mount bipods so they may not be as interested know they would have to purchase another bipod for it to work for them.

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That's a fair point. It could definitely be done as another option. I've redesigned the trigger guard to provide a ridgid mounting point for the lower rail anyway so having a lower pic rail option wouldn't be difficult. Honestly, I hadn't even thought about a lower pic rail other than an mlok mounted system. Thanks for the feedback I will keep that in mind.

"Reg o-rings with metal..."? Sounds like a Dowty seal or bonded washer. Picture(s)?

Oke doke, here are some pictures. Plenty of sun should have some good detail.

I spoke with Darren at AoA and he just special ordered the Argus 45 CF .22 for me! Put down the 50% deposit. I’ll just have to wait about 90 days which is fine with me. Happy ending.

yes including shipping. think it was like $306 total to my door in 4 days. I was pretty surprised

Both are right around the 33 inch mark. The Wildcat is doing around 80ft/lbs with a 44.8gn, the Notos does about 18ft/lbs with a hades.

Back_Roads said:

A little slow-motion trigger pulling

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Here is after a polish and slight shape adjustment.

lbc_PSI said:

This was the winner.

Started degassing and noticed the reg pressure dropping faster that the tank. Stopped degassing and the reg settled at 50 bar and the tank at 100 bar. Tried adjusting the reg up and the reg pressure went to 60 bar. Dry fired a few times and reg stayed at 60 and tank pressure moved down almost imperceptibly. Refilled to 150 bar and the reg stayed at 60.

Thanks for all the replies.

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You’re welcome. That’s why we are all here. To get a guy back to shooting and not cranky.

Beautiful rifle!