Ty. Yes. Huben and tuxing 580 bottle.

Loren said:

A couple of new glass fiber composite stocks in the works sporting camo paint work.

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Wow these are , so Awesome

Yeah pretty much just trail and error for sure. That platform definitely has the power to push them. Mine with 600mm barrel shoots 44.75 895fps with only 115-117 bar reg.

YES

YES .... Bottle and its mounting to receiver is seldom SNUG SNUG and slight wiggle free .... If barrel is Banded to the bottle, any motion be it bottle attachment area or created by varied pressures within bottle the POI will change.
* There is Very good reason be in Air guns or Powder WHY the most consistent is Free Floated having barrel in contact with nothing outside receiver attachment !!! Sad thing even then is if a Floated barrel is NOT VERY securely attached at receiver you will still get random POI shifts

This part underwent a design change. After making certain that the plenum is fully depressurize, loosen the barrel set screws and pull the barrel assembly out. Make sure you or someone else is not standing directly in front of the barrel when you do this as an added safety precaution. This thread posted some months back, discussed this change:

Thread 'Help with FX Panthera plenum valve tube end'
https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/help-with-fx-panthera-plenum-valve-tube-end.1324629/

It's been through at least two formulations, likely a third. Originally it would produce a pinkish bubbling surface when applied. That formulation is long gone along with the wipe-out electrolysis unit that worked great. In the case of electrolysis, I'm surprised they ever made that unit(I own one), the waste liquid is an extremely hazardous waste and I'm guessing the pink coloration of the patch removal stuff on contact with lead was an indication it to was extremely hazardous(the pink indicates transformation to lead salts in solution, liquid absorbed very easily through skin with the lead salts). Original pink producing stuff was left in bore for an hour by instructions, and then needed to be neutralized using their products. That stuff was aggressive and worked well. Most people I knew just used dawn dish soap in hot water to clean it out, followed by oil/preservative application and never had trouble, other than it's somewhat short time on the market. One person I knew, had a whole shelf of the stuff several deep in his reloading room, hoping it aged well over the years. He also would buy 100 or more lbs of lots of powder that worked very well., he would buy 1lb containers of new stuff to try, if it was great(better than what he used in a cal/bullet specific application) and that lot number was easily available he would buy, buy, buy. Kept his powder stash in an insulated concrete block house with a blow out wall facing away from his house, with an hvac system. Best thing to do if you can afford it, I've suffered through loss of powders that were discontinued over the years, and also sometimes having only one lot of a specific powder work well, same powder when I ran out wasn't even close and back to the drawing board.

The second formulation created dark grey/black sludge and by all accounts worked well when it first came out, only to not work well in short order, neither I nor anyone I knew ever tried it Age, and not that much killed its effectiveness. They changed the packaging to be in two bottles that you mixed what you needed, since pre-mixed lost its ability to work in somewhat a short time, sealed in a bottle didn't matter, new stuff after a few months on the shelves didn't work as well as fresh and just got worse with time.

Third formulation, if there is a third, it is back to one bottle. Same grey/black sludge produced. If it is just saving costs of two bottles packaging and is the same formula, after a few months it will start to not work as well, eventually not working at all. If it is a new formula, hopefully it still works decently and doesn't have a short shelf life, I have no idea.

The version producing grey/black sludge, or both versions if new formula, is to be left in the bore 20 minutes and thoroughly cleaned from bore(no more warning of neutralizing chemicals with their products, but still suggest same products).

In all cases, you needed to clean the bore so there was no chemicals/oils in it for the product to work before using, and after using.

Trucker3573 said:

Yeah I agree with that

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The filters are about here.. should be within the next couple weeks. I'll have an affiliate link posted as soon as available.

As far as new products, I'm not sure if the mention was referring to GX or some other brand or item. There are a few things coming up with GX, but nothing that's going to shake the Airgun world to its knees at this time.

Here is a short one. I would be careful to not put too long of and extension on it as it might flex unless it is heavy duty.

Irish shooter said:

On a previous post I noted I upgraded my hammer to 8.5g humma air hammer.

My reg was at 135 and and was achieving 950fps with zans 37gr. This worked fine for speed but accuracy was just ok.so I looked for a better tune. After some correspondence from zan they said I should be shooting them at 985-1010. So I upped my reg up get to these speeds.

However in both my tunes I found the tune ability with the macro was negligible. For example tonight when my reg was back to 135 I was getting 965fps with my macro on 16. I turned the macro gradually to 4 and there was only 3fps decrease.( I’m confused)

The only way I could get any noticeable drop or increase in speed was using my valve adjustment but that’s not the way to tune according to countless videos on YouTube that iv watched

I presume im doing something wrong if my macros isn’t having much of an effect.

Is my hammer too heavy ? Should I use 7.5g or revert back to 6.5g

Any advice ?

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i have used both those hammers and have the 8,5 now with my reg at 155 bar 600mm .25
not sure if you have a 25 or 22 but the ZAN slugs for .25 are only good for paperweights way undersize .247 .248 no good .249 249.5
you want a real nice soft slug varmint knocker.

with the 8.5 hammer if you notice the shoulder is taller so it adds preload to the hammer spring
mine on 16 1030+ roll to setting 4 970s
proper way to tune these is 1st set your target speed and roll the valve out 4.5 lines out and leave it there.
roll the power wheel to 16 micro-3.5 i use caliper to measure this and the valve adjuster makes it accurate.
gradually raise reg pressure and adjusting the hammer until you hit the end of the rainbow. for every time you raise the reg and retune
you keep adjusting the micro up more hammer few clicks then shoot there will come a point where you adjust the Micro
that your speed does not increase any more it starts to drop.

this is the curve of the rainbow where you start to back off on the Micro until you hit max velocity again.
now roll the micro until it drops 3-4 fps and stop. this is your max speed for this reg pressure with this hammer adjustment with this grain slug
just before the peak of the rainbow is where you want to be.

if your set target speed is say 980 tune the gun 30-40 fps quicker than target speed so tune for 1020.
once you reach 1020 by raising reg pressure and adjusting hammer spring tension, now can start to click the power wheel back.
with the 8.5 you will need to roll it back to 5 or 4 before you see a decrease of let's say 5-12 fps with the huma 8. 5 takes some adjustment away
but power wheel is only a cam lobe the numbers is just the position of the lobe to me.
so, now it takes 2 clicks vs 1 with this hammer.

ok so now we are at 1000 -998 don't touch the micro or power wheel adjustment any more only the valve adjuster.
start turning it in 1/4 turns at a time it will pick up speed as you turn it in, they all do within a couple turns.
once you notice the speed is now slowing. now turn in 1/8 turns like a clock face 1 -12 o clock and yes that little bit can be as much as 10 fps
as you dial it in, as the speed starts to drop from closing the valve listen to the gun, you will notice it getting quiet and also gaining a ping
at this point you should start shooting 4 to 5 shot groups id shoot H&N before Zan's in .25 imo.
as you turn the valve adjuster you will notice your group sizes shrink to hole in a hole once this is done
take notes of reg hammer valve adjuster micro best to use caliper to measure the micro in mm you can always go back to let's say 18,53mm
vs 3 just about a quarter line, or 2-3/4 out on the valve adjuster vs 7.98mm 8mm

this is the best way i have learned to tune these for best accuracy and efficiency any air coming out of the barrel once the slug leaves
is turbulent air and will disrupt flight of the slug. we record at 1 1/10.000 of a sec slow motion you can watch the slug or pellet Tilt
from this burst behind it.
I've tried all different ways up to now, good luck
this is done at 30 then checked at 50 75 100 +
if you run your reg no higher than 135 run the huma. 7.5 i find the 8.5 is good for 140 up
good luck

RabbitofCaerbannog said:

Its still hard to believe, slugs shooting as tight as pellets.. apparently that's blasphemy or witchcraft.

I guess we're witches.

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We must be, my Akela .177 shoots slugs better than pellets at any distance.

AirNGasman said:

I feel Gamo field targets pretty reliiable design, unfortunately compromised by inferior face-plate and paddle weaknesses (especialy for extensive competition use/purposes). So although well-stocked with (original) replacement Gamo face-plates, I'm constantly repairing beat-up Gamo paddles by reflattenig and/or reinforcing them with bolts and/or washers.

Consequently I was pleasantly surprised to find Quality Targets offers not only replacement face-plates for Gamos, but paddles as well; at very reasonable prices. Quality being my Bench-Rest Silhouette swingers supplier, and the owner Calvin being not only very easy to deal with but his company one of the best I've ever dealt with, another reason (in this case) to not only give him my business but have a conversation with Calvin is his willingness to customize his MANY steel target offerings to specifications. In this case, by making replacement Gamo paddles out of (tougher) AR500 steel. Though apparently not available in 1/8" thickness, and the 3/32" AR500 also requiring heating to twist, I gladly paid the (very reasonable) premium for a dozen upgraded paddles.

However upon receipt, I worried about the considerably heavier paddles falling consistently to clean hits; especially from 12 foot pound AAFTA pistol hits... out to 35 yards. But upon upgrading a few of my most beat-up Gamo targets with the QUALITY face-plates and paddles, I was impressed enough to start wondering about their possibilities for Extreme Field Target use.

First things first, I tested the jackalope below at 40 yards with my 10.5 foot pound AAFTA pistol. Much to my relief, the jackalope functioned flawlessly with 7 foot pound hits from 8.4 gain JSBs.

View attachment 552815

My first question answered, even if the 1/8" thick, non-AR500 steel replacement face-plates are tougher than original Gamos, no doubt they won't hold up to Extreme FT rifle hits. But not easily deterred, and having ordered all the replacement face-plates with 1.5" kill-zones in order to accept heavy-duty (THICK) reducers I have on hand, by also using 2.25" O.D. steel washers between the reducers and face-plates the face-plates might have some chance of surviving hits from EFT rifles. Unfortunately that question will go unanswered until which time foul weather and other priorities allows testing.

So for the time being, the prairie dog target above, left 'in the raw' for illustration purposes with the reducer and washer in place, remains 'food for thought'... aka- a question. I'll answer that question soon as weather and priorities permit. Meanwhile,!

Regardless, pretty sure the Quality Targets upgrades described will render them virtually impervious to AAFTA power levels. That, in itself, will be worth the price of admission (upgrades).


Happy Shooting,
R
.

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Plus 10 in agreement that quality targets is a outstanding resource!
Just received my gamo paddle replacements to replace those damaged by Crosman premier heavies

ToddGeddes63 said:

As a lefty I have had to adapt to a right-handed world. That said, I'm more comfortable shooting a rifle left-handed, with the cocking lever on the right side.

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Let's say our left hand was forced to conform to the right handed world.

Love it and those butt stocks !!
Happy it has all come together for you.

Thanks for the info ,I will check with them

Hi there! I’m new to this pcp world. I would like to know what’s the little screw attached to the part of the valve going into the tank? Should I tighten it up by hand?(see the picture)

Just curious who’s taking the Black Wolf to RMAC.
What caliber is your gun?
Which events are you shooting in?

Please feel free to chime in if you’re planning on getting a BW and take it to other competitions. Just note which event.

Gos said:

In 17/22 or 22/25?

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If want to use a small diameter Donny, then get the Koi, the tanto was loud on my Maverick 600mm .22. STO Falx is where it’s at for actually being quiet.

JaceSpace1369 said:

Ahh I didn't notice that!

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I found it very different from what I'm used to!!

It is on my VP model also. I’m finding out some folks didn’t have a spacer come on their VP models. I contacted Newman @ 910 who used to be head tech for FXUSA and he had never heard of a valve spacer on these.

I guess you and I got the “deluxe” models of the VP line?

Update on the problem in filling the U2 after all this time my friend calls me to tell me he put the fill probe in the other side of the rifle and it filled up, I never thought of that but I remember a different air rifle I had that would only fill from one side.

That bottle is too old.

Better to buy a 580 cc composite bottle. After taking all air out, you just unscrew the metallic one and screw the new one.

Depending on how many grub screws there are I'd assume so. The old Disco ones were single grub screw. I'd bet if you could get at least 3 grub screws on it that it'd be just fine. But asking TKO would be best.

dlancerx said:

Can you please explain what you mean by "direction"..? thnx

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2min 40 seconds is what I meant

mark559 said:

Todays find. Went to buy a rc car engine. Found some goodies.

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Quite the detour…nice goodies! John