All kinds of reasons as listed here. To address your specific circumstances the streamline and drs barrels are very different.

Thank you. It has good depth when viewed in person.
After staining for the final finish I slapped a few coats of tru oil on and then blocked it out. Skip sanding between those first filler coats. All sanding in between coats does is put finish on your floor and risks sanding the stain off. Beech fills easy. Getting beech stripped clean and stained well is usually the trickiest part.
Then just rubbed the Tru oil dry half way up. Dry enough to hold in a few hours. Then rub it on the other half and blend in the middle. About two coats that way. Easy. Tru oil does blend in very well. Even for touchups.
Some apply with their fingers but it's much easier/faster to apply with a cotton cloth patch. Puts on just the right amount for rubbing dry and easier to avoid flooding the checkers.
There's nothing wrong about a gloss finish if that's what you want. Tru oil is fast and easy and is ok for a lot of guns. Depends.

"Spring" starts for me when the ground squirrels leave their holes for more than a minute.

kahu said:

Anyone ever used these cases??

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I have one. It is great for the price. Very heavy though. Pluck and pull foam isn’t perfect but it will be good enough for most people. Very roomy, fits my DRS, bipod, paintball tank and room for ammo and magazines

I think this thread is BS. I'll bet $ to donuts that the GK1s sold in Canada are the same sold everywhere else. The GK1 is totally adjustable for power. There is no reason they should be different from an engineering point of view. It also looks like becoming the 52nd State may be very good idea!

Hobbyman2007 said:

So far I’ve had a few small things that I was able to get sorted out. This is on the paradigm. The face inside the regulator gauge was loose and moving around. Then the hammer adjustment this is the new style with built in SSG ( easier cocking) Its design only allows for free flight distance adjustment and no hammer spring tension adjustment. This is all fine and well as the spring and hammer are in tune to shoot MRD’s over 900fps. If I wanted to lower the velocity and have a good ES I’d have to experiment with springs or redesign the SSG configuration to make the spring preload adjustable. Which I’m not , the rifle is shooting perfect just the way it is.

The epic 2 does look good and is quite possibly a knockoff of sorts. With some more adjustability.

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I hadn't taken mine apart yet, so I didn't know that you couldn't adjust the hammer spring like the previous EVOLs. Mine is also shooting MRDs over 900fps and as you, I don't have a reason to change it as it is shooting very well. Unfortunately, there is no documentation at all provided with the new EVOL and nothing anywhere tha I can find. That is very disappointing considering the nice parts blow up of the old EVOLs. I realize a lot is the same but and update on the new parts would be nice to have.

Peete said:

I've got a Dedal Stalker disassembled that's needs cleaning and resealing with inert gas I guess.
Would there be any company who would do that. Preferably in the EU but with all that's going on sending to RU will be difficult.

Or selling a Dedal disassembled would be difficult I guess.

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Should see the one just listed on eBay for $50. Can’t be legit but if it is, it’s a gift.

Its easy to see if you are imparting negative actions on your rifle, and you only need 10m and a 24x scope. I put my rifles on a lead sled and watch how different cheek pressure, grip, etc relate to the crosshair moving. Different stocks and rifle design have different results. It has also helped me identify a lightly loose screw between the action and the stock.

WorriedMan said:

RTI Mora will never be for me with left hand cocking so I'll stick with AGT. WM

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You see I love cocking on the left

For squirrels, even 20 grain H&N FTTs work well. I took 18 squirrels with them and lost none. Rabbits go down easier so I would expect the same on them. Coyotes, on the other hand, require more penetration. 1-2 lb animals need less penetration than 10-40 lb animals, in other words. I would use the 34 grain on coyotes or a larger caliber. You could use the 34 on squirrels and rabbits but it is going to go through about 100% of the time. No big problem as long as it's OK to hit what is behind the animal.

Unless I missed it, the most important dimension is missing in the op. The outside or inside diameter. Either will work when the wire diameter is known.

Length and coil count isn’t that important. Springs can be cut and reclosed. Length changes preload but doesn't necessarily indicate strength.

Comparing OD, wire size and coil count gets you in the ball park. Even then coil pitch/spacing and material can affect strength.

Ideally you need to know all of those dimensions and spring rate to know for sure if springs are interchangeable. Or you could just try it.

BTW I wouldn't worry about a broken spring until it breaks. Some go a long time.

HTH
Ron

Yes it's a .177. I have the whole barrel kit with the correct end cap. I'm going down the .177 Prophet Performance 2.1 shooting slugs rabbit hole.

Great video and the carbine is awesome looking keep bring us your videos.

Don't waste your time and money on the tensioned barrel ....it creates more issues than it supposedly fixes!!

6gun said:

The typical construction today is the aluminum liner, the structural carbon and it's resin, a protective layer of glass and it's resin, a waist wrap and the a final protective outer coating of resin that can get chipped etc if memory serves. If no strands of any type are compromised there are no worries. I've back filled chips with 5 minute hardware store resin and buffed it out.

I'm the old head now and remember when wrapped hpa was 3k psi for paintball I still have a bulldog cylinder because it was so pretty.

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There are fiberglass automotive repair kits that I bet would be a excellent thing to put on one of those tanks as a base for a nice paint job.

Sadly no. Just a chance to meet some folks face to face. We would love it if you could make it!

For those that want some serious night-time reading, that only needs "high school maths", these three are good starting points:

https://airgunwarriors.com/resource..._Failure_in_Spring_Piston_Airguns_Tavella.pdf


https://www.researchgate.net/public...Spring_Piston_Airguns_-_A_Conceptual_Analysis

Bottom line is that spring guns are complicated because they are extremely dynamic systems with multiple interconnections between variables.
Change one thing and everything else changes.

In this case, the MSP rifle in question has a simple limit: the energy STORED in the reservoir. The barrel is long enough to transfer most of it to the pellets tested, so, since the small reservoir is limited, then all the ME's are also limited.

Gas spring'ed rifles may have two different paths, and it mostly depends on the design of the leade/chamber/barrel and the material of the pellet:
They will quickly accelerate a pellet but still help the pellet retain its shape, OR they will blow out the skirt.
Contrary to common perception, Tin (Sn atomic symbol) pellets are NOT soft. They are somewhat harder than lead pellets, even those that have substantial amounts of antimonium (Sb) in the lead alloy. Tin Pellet retain their shape better than lead pellets when shot from a spring gun and therefore, may exhibit better internal and external ballistics than lead (and this does not refer to Velocity).

Steel spring'ed rifles tend to shoot under smoother curves of pressure/barrel travel, because the STARTING pressure of a steel spring'ed rifle will be lower the the equivalent one in gas spring.

On top of all the normal complications, VERY FEW shooters are REALLY limiting their experimets to the "pop gun" regime (as defined by the Cardews). There is a LOT of dieseling (controlled or otherwise) going on in 98% of the springers (all those that use tars/greases for the tunes with hydrocarbon bases). You would need to use ONLY Teflon based lubes and or DRY lubes (Hexagonal Boron Nitride or Molybdenum Bisulphyde WITHOUT carriers) to actually be able to claim that you have "zero dieseling".

We are barely scratching/beginning to understand REALLY how spring-piston airguns work. That is what makes them interesting and challenging.

Keep well and shoot straight!






HM

I got 2 red squirrels yesterday with my dressed up Avenge X, set up in .22.

Nice custom 97! I love .20, as many do. -blbr

That's strange. I would say it's not from temp.

Nooyen T said:

I have heard that about the level before. I was looking into some scope rings with the level built. Might have to revisit that again. Thanks much

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I started with the level in the rings, it can be a little hard to see. This is the 3rd one I've tried. I like it because it's marked in finer Increments and it's slightly curved. Torquing the rifle on the stand to match the level was my biggest problem. I was hitting a different spot every shot.

muradtexas said:

Looks good. What kind of tape?

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Just some regular 3M clear packing tape. I'm sure there might be some better water-resistant tape out there but I already had this lying around.

Separate guns for each is the way to go

What I have learned - with scopes also with compressors - in recent several years so many Brands surfaced, and after some 2-3 years most of these new Brands disappeared for whatever that could be reasons. Cloned, copied, rebranded products when came to the end of warranty claim there was just not enough business case to keep these alive.
For a long run, me personally I would stick with a Brand that was on the market in 2020 and still sells today.
Like YH as one example, but you can and shall do your own research.

beerthief said:

can't use air for turkey in KY

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Air shotgun yes, but not regular rifles of any sort.