Hi iv got my hands on an .22 fx maverick low powered 12ft/lbs of power , Im changing to a .30 highpower or normal US powed long distance slug rifle now I have my licence at long last again.

Iv now got a .30 sniper 700mm barrel change kit .
Can you or somone please list what other things I need to change . what has worked for you .
I want to use for long distance small game and also just target shooting.
I'm fairly sure I know most of what I need to change but I'd like someone else's opinion that has been through the process themselves. after doing a change from.a pellet rifle to a long distance slug rifle.
What parts , hammer weights/ hammer springs / regulator bevel sizes and even ttypes of slugs and heavy pellets that work with the same pin probe , I'm told some can damage the pellet skirt??, depending on magazine.
I'm useing huma as my main shop to buy items so if a list can be given of items from there it will be a big help .
Any help.in.a list of parts I should be changing will be a help .
Sizes of the regulator bevels would help as i belive there different in the uk sub 12 ft / lbs low powered ones. Recommendation's on .30 .3D printed magazines and aso if there is a supplier of larger quantities of slugs rather than tins , tins are fine till I know what weight of slugs I'm going to want , but after that I love spending full days on the range and doing some small game hunting at much longer distances than the 50 yards a 12ft/lbs of power without a licence. The cost can soon get to much unless can buy in larger quantities or make myself.
I will be getting a press which again if there's any people recommend please say.

I'm a little confused about the hammer wheel as I'm not to sure if mine even has been working. i do have an FX hammer quick tune kit that il put a photo of below which I'm told is great for micro hammer adjustments.

This might sound stupid but should number 1 be at the bottom between the two lets call them posts as the first setting,? should the wheel stop turning once it gets to highest number ?.Then it should stop and you spin it back?.
Mine just turns around and around which seems wrong to me ??. Surly it's should stop once it reaches its max then you can turn it down , not just be able to spin it all the way around.?
This rife is new to me and second hand at a bargin price luckily and iv purchased knoeing it's a great rife to work on and learn from before looking a buying other long distance rifles in the future now iv had to give up the shotgun due to injury.

Regarding regulator settings. Can you advise on a good starting point with .30 slugs .
I do now have an fx chronograph just purchased so I'm sure it will help but some advice from someone with experience would be a great help . Videos are only so much help and you need to k ow what help you need first .
I like to.print and be able to have there in front of me .
It helps me alot as i hate been outside with gace glued to phone screen instead of the scope.
Any advice li ks to other threads would be a huge help to.someone that now wants to get hand into the joys of playing and changing part on pcp air rifles, especially when my closest shop is a 800mile round trip

Thanks for your time and hopefully experience.

I bit the bullet ordered n next week my first swaging dies should arrive. Any suggestions on the lead wire I should get?

A question that I have come up with when looking for this rifle is regarding the tank output pressure.

I've read that 1100psi is the recommended output pressure from the tank, and also what the supplied tank is set at.
I know some people have experimented with 1200psi for increased power.

However I am more interested in performance with lower pressure.
Has anyone tried running it with regular paintball pressure of 850psi?
Did the action function? If so, what was the performance like?

Forgive my ignorance. I have short term memory issues and thus the apologies right out of the gate if this has been answered repeatedly. I have searched for info but may have already forgot what I've read because honestly, that's something that that happens. I've been researching for a few weeks now and was just about to make the purchase of an Avenge X and misc. associated gear, thinking I had things lined up in my head of what was needed. But, just to be certain, I asked via customer service chat at Pyramyd Air about what size bottle I should be looking at for an Avenge X via a used Scott 4500 psi SCBA bottle as I may have access to a few (I'm a retired/disabled Paramedic). However he stated and I quote "The size of the SCBA will not matter. With the high fill pressure of the gun, even a tank filled to 4500 psi, you will get less than 1 full fill of the gun. A compressor is a better option for the Avenge X."

This is blowing my mind. With everything that I've watched and read over the past few weeks, I was under the impression that once I had the SCBA refilled, I could use it to refill the rifle multiple times. Granted, I had no clue just how many refills might be possible, considering all the possible variables including but not limited to original starting pressure, how many shots taken, altitude/barometric pressures, etc..

Can the wise and sage ones one here maybe give me the real skinny? Clue this old man in to what's really going on? Was this just an attempt at getting me to purchase a high dollar compressor right off the bat or is this information correct? Something doesn't seem correct here.

Thanks for any advice you may have.
John

Hello all,

I have a Steyr challenge Field Target that I would like to make some changes to. Specifically, I want to change out the default hamster for a custom one. Does anyone know what rail mounting system Steyr uses for their “front stock?” I want to confirm if it’s proprietary before I start shoving in m-lok rails and damage my chassis.

I just bought an avenger x .25 cal today. this is my first gun so I am still learning. On the regulator gauge when you switch from high to low should you see a different pressure on it? I will switch it from low to high take a few shots then look at the gauge and not notice a difference.

While blueing is commonplace with steel guns, I’ve never seen it done with alloy. I think the most common alloy used in many airguns is zamac. I remember people saying you can’t blue that stuff, only paint it or anodize it. Is this still true or is there something new out there?

I haven’t been here in awhile. Was wondering if anyone has any firsthand knowledge or experience with the MAX 1? It looked to be a pretty nice set up with some good stats.

Bakersfield California area if possible I need someone to fill my Scott 4500 PSI carbon fiber tank ! Tried rebuilding my yong heng compressor with no success and really would like to get out and shoot my PCP rifles I will compensate for the fill. Would be very nice today if possible!? Thank you!

Good evening,

I have just recently purchased the MCAR .510 caliber Hunter version and am looking for suggestions on a quality optic for it. I was told the Monstrum Ruckus Pro 6x Fixed Prism Scope would be a good one. Any comments?

The parts I ordered from K&L are on the way. cant wait to see the gun with the Olive drab parts on it.

NOTE! Parts are on the way, will arrive June 26th
Thanks for all the responses and help! Greatly appreciated!
P.S. Does anyone know how to delete/remove a post?

Does anyone know if Tuxing and Air Marksman are made by the same manufacturer? or if they work together in some sort of capacity? I'm asking because I wanted to buy an Air Marksman air cylinder and my local airgun shop tried to sell me a Tuxing air cylinder 580cc for $400 and say that it's an Air Marksman and the only difference is that it says "Tuxing" on the bottle. To my knowledge, Tuxing is a completely different brand than A.M.

I have a friend with 22cal gamo swarm he wanted to try slugs neilson has some 17.5 in all different diameter! Anyone know which one works best without having to buy all of them?

Hello good men and potentially women as well, I've got a bit of an issue with my Priest 2 which I'm hoping you could help me solve.
The hammer in my gun broke, to be exact the part that sticks out on top of it simply snapped off, is there way to fix it to make it functional, even if not for very long?
Also, what's more important, I'm obviously looking to buy a new one and on RTIs shop the ones for Prophet 2.1 look considerably more rugged so I'd like to buy that one, does anyone know if they're compatible? They kinda look like they would be but you never know.
And lastly, just to be sure, I wanted to order the pivoting part of the trigger, part number 46 to be exact, I'm fairly sure it's the exact same part between the 2 (there's no Priest 2 specific parts apart from a few select ones) and the same question for all of you, is it compatible?

Any recommendations for pellets for the DRS?
Will be hunting squirrels at less than 50 yards.
.22 cal.

Thinking about a Huben GK1 in .25 . Would this work for my back yard? I have a few .22's that I shoot in my yard but would like to try a .25.
Thanks for the help!

Just bought a used PARD Nightstalker 4k, everything seems to be in order and in excellent shape, HOWEVER, when I go to use the scopes on board gyroscope/compass function (inclinometer & digital level functions also) my readings are all over the place.

I've tried every method of calibration that I can come up with, indoors, outdoors, high light, low light, figure-8, rolling, spinning, tumbling; nothing has worked so far.

Scope reads as if I am spinning, and changing yaw/pitch constantly. Attached is a video of the scope screen and the heading/values on left and right respectively. Has anyone experienced this and found a fix?

I'm aware I could just shut it off, but I'd love to use the onboard leveling function and compass.

I have two GK1, both will fill to 32 mpa then slow leak to to around 30 mpa in a few minutes sometimes 28-29 but not often, where should I look first? Or is this something I should just live with?

Can anyone please explain why it is recommended to fill the GK1 reservoir before loading the magazine? I got this information from the GK1 User’s Manual.

I ask because the magazine release lever and magazine are under less tension at lower reservoir pressures. This makes loading the GK1 easier to me. Are there valid reasons not to re-load before topping off the GK1?

Is this simply a safety precaution?

Anyone have experience with this one? Has 350v motor, dual fans, 4500 psi

If I’m doing my own reloading of my 9mm pistol rounds why couldn’t I use that same lead for my 9mm airgun or any other equivalent powder burner caliber?

just for your information my gun is a AEA Megalodon 22 inch 58 cal and my pump is GX cs4-i with added gx water/oil filter and added vibration hour counter

how often do you get the airtanks mounted on your guns checked or replace them?

what psi/bar do you store your guns when not using them? on 4500 psi max fill tank?

what do you use to clean and maintain your gun, i have a silicone oil made for airsoft guns its a liquid should i buy anything else and for what part of the gun should i use what?

when cleaning and oiling the gun do you take it apart and oil the inside of any parts of the gun?

when cleaning the barrel do you push a cloth towards the breech or pull a cloth towards the muzzle end? does it matter if your only using silicone oil and a snake with no metal?

if the gun is not regulated how far down will you shoot the tank before refilling?

do you guys fix and maintain your own guns or is it common to send them in to someone to be worked on?

how often do you guys replace a part or an O ring, im new to this and currently have zero spare parts and limited knowledge of the inner workings of the gun so im concerned it will stop working and ill be forced to send it in or be stuck with a non working gun, also i want to keep it working safely, i try to take very good care of equipment like this

what parts should i always have on hand to ready with a quick at home fix?

what is an expected lifetime of one of these big bore pcp guns?

is there anything else i should know? im always open to suggestions and criticism, thanks everyone hope its not too many questions at once

Hi there,

Quick question:

A regular DS Alphawolf HP .177 (23" barrel) can it shoot sub12 if i turn down the regulator and adjust the speed down or is this not an option?

Just want to if it is posible or if you must have a 17" barrel

I just changed calibres on my Fx impact M4 from a 700mm .25 to a .30 cal 700mm, i kept the same tune as i had when it was .25cal ( reg 160bar,macro 16,micro 4.25,valve 14mm) shooting 41g zans at 960fps and now that its in .30 cal its shooting .30 54gn H&Ns at over 1000fps and pretty consistant to, my question is this to fast?? Does the .30cal like to go slower? So far i havent managed to get out and see if it groups well.

Anybody know if any NCR rifles are coming out soon following Umarex's lead with their Komplete.