Looking for a recommendation for brick and mortar repair shop in greater Los Angeles area that familiar with Fx airguns?

I’ve tried several scopes and brackets and nothing is holding zero? Keeps walking to the right after about ten shots no matter what I do? Any recommendations would be great.

Hi y'all. I am new to air rifles, I'm a semi auto shotgun user but due to a very short and limited hunting season here in spain on designated hunting grounds, namely october to february and only on thursdays, saturdays, sundays and public holidays, Having permission on quite a lot of private land, and in order to not attract the attention of the authorities I decided to buy an air rifle, I bought a Hatsan 6.35 calibre (.25 in old money) 24 joules breakbarrel, scope, sound moderater etc. In the UK being over the legal limit of 16.7 joules this would require a full firearms licence. Anyway my point, is there any way to 'Tune it up', example get more power from it than the 24 joules it already produces..? It does feel powerful already and can stick a solid open point slug a good inch into a builders plank from around 40 yards, but would just like a bit more from it.

I have recently bought a FX Maverick Sniper .22 and I am wondering if you guys have some basic tunes I could try. I am using the Smooth Twist X Barrel for now. I ordered the following pellets:

• JSB Jumbo Heavy .22 |18.13 gr​

• JSB Jumbo Monster Redesigned .22 | 25.39 gr​

• JSB KnockOut Slugs .22 | 25.39gr | .216​

• JSB KnockOut Slugs .22 | 25.39gr | .217​

• H&N Slug HP .22 Cal | 21 gr | .217​

• H&N Slug HP .22 Cal | 21 gr | .218​

• H&N Baracuda .22 | 18.13gr​

Any recommendations for specific tunes for these pellets would be great. I am new to FX airguns and thought I could maybe save some time.​

Thank you!

AGN Members,

I added a Altaros Regulator from TalonTunes to my Talon SS. I need to readjust Regulator . In order to do this I have to remove it. How do I depessurize the tank? With 2000+ Psi I am a bit edgy on doing this. (AirForce Say's DO NOT dry fire) Loosen explosion disc screw a bit or slowly unscrew Top Hat valve from Regulator til it leaks slowly ?
BTW, Without the regulator I was getting 790-830 FPS Power wheel set at #8. I set the Altaros to 125 BAR now getting 640 FPS. Small change increase (650 FPS) at #10. Another Problem is My YH now shows 3000 Psi and the Talon only 2000 Psi, Altaros 140 BAR. Any knowledge on these questions greatly appreciated.

Bill

Does anyone have any feedback on using this product for cleaning airgun barrels?

Does it damage o-rings? I visited their website, but couldn't find any FAQs or other info..might have to call their 800#

The info says cleans lead, carbon, and brass..

This has come off a UK forum, it’s made in the USA, I’ve no idea how it works or idea who made it. Can anyone here enlighten me?

Weird looking critter!

Edit: it’s the paler one that’s probably more confusing. At least the dark one has a side lever.

I have a daystate red wolf 22 cal hp, I have sub moa at 100 yard! but at 200 yard I could not make anything maybe slugs helps. Do you have any suggestion for 200 yards?

Hi lads just got an FX impact MK 3 .177 wanted some help with the tuning wondering if anyone could give me there recommended general tuning settings for 10.34g pellet and 10.03 slug cheers

Has anyone purchased the Infiray T2 Pro and can someone please tell me the pros and cons/ general opinion on how well it works and the lifespan. Lifespan as in are they durable or are they getting returned within two months? Please and Thank You!

Has anyone purchased the Infiray T2 Pro and can someone please tell me the pros and cons/ general opinion on how well it works and the lifespan. Lifespan as in are they durable or are they getting returned within two months? Please and Thank You!

Hello Notos owners.
I am wondering if the stock tube threads are standard AR-15 threads. Thinking of buying one but am wondering if I would be able to install a folding stock adapter like one from SB Tactical.

Thanks

Sorry I'm new here. I don't have sufficient privileges to post in the classified section yet. Can I upgrade or do I need to wait? Thanks

*** Moderator edit ***​

Ask you questions, but do not attempt to skirt the rules. 10 posts and 10 days presence, for everyone. No upgrades, no special groups.

My M3 performed flawlessly for the first couple months after I purchased it. I had it tuned to 1/2” groups at 50 yards with the 2nd reg at 150bar and velocity at 990fps +/- 3fps. Every time I took it out it was dialed in. But I did noticed that whenever I took it out after it had been sitting for a day or two that the first 5-6 shots were slow. They would be something like this: 930, 950, 960, 970, 980, 990. I figured I could deal with this. Before hunting I would dry fire the gun around 6 times.

I took a break from shooting during the past 2 months. I did not make any changes to the gun during this time. It just sat in its case. I took it out to shoot. I checked to make sure that the reg pressure, valve and hammer were all set to where they were they had been when the gun was dialed in at 990fps. The first shot was 850fps! Over the course of 20 SHOTS the velocity eventually climbed to 990. I thought maybe things just needed to get warmed up after being unused for so long.

But then I tested a shorter time interval between shots. I took 10 a minute break, then the took a shot. 960! After just 10 minutes a drop of 30fps! Then over the course of 5 shots it climbed back to 990. This is not how it behaved before. If I had taken a 10 minute break 2 months ago, there would be no change in velocity.

The next day I took the gun out again and the first shot was 930fps. 15 more shots and it’s back up to 990.

Any ideas guys?


UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

SOLUTION(S):

I did several things, all addressing the issue of friction between the valve rod & plenum nose o-ring. I made all of these changes at the same time because I didn’t want to disassemble the rifle, make a change, reassemble, let the gun sit overnight, test, then repeat the process for each change. As a result I’m not sure which change had the most significant affect on resolving the issue, but all of these changes could only help resolve this problem in the present and prevent it from happening again as quickly in the future.

For reference there are 2 images of the valve rod and valve tube assembly schematic below.
Here’s a link to the entire FX Impact M3 schematic:
https://fxairguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F10370-Impact-M3.pdf

I disassembled the gun down to the valve rod and on the 2 inch section that slides in and out of the Valvetube End (part 10338) there was a grippy grey residue. This was from the o-ring (part 19768, O-ring 2.84x2.62 PUR90) in the valvetube wearing away onto the valve rod, perhaps due to just normal use, not enough lube being applied at the factory, o-ring shrinking overtime - likely multiple reasons.

I did several things to reduce valve rod friction:

• DEBURRED the ends of my HAMMER SPRING with a rotary tool. Some hammer springs have burrs on the ends that can cause inconsistent velocities. Not all springs have these burrs, but if you notice that yours does, then sand them down with a rotary tool, fine file, or sand paper.
• CLEANED o-ring residue on the valve rod with rubbing alcohol.
• POLISHED the valve rod: Used a polishing compound and microfiber cloth to polish the valve rod until it had a shinny mirror-like finish. Took about 10 minutes. I used Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner, available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSOW4
• UPGRADED THE O-RING THAT THE VALVE ROD SLIDES THROUGH/AGAINST: I purchased an improved valve rod o-ring, which is made from a harder and smoother material than the stock o-ring. Here is a link to where you can buy this o-ring: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267168330592 For reference it is O-ring 103 (part 19768) in the schematic below.
• LUBED THE UPGRADED O-RING with SuperLube Synthetic Grease rather than silicone oil. The maker of the ungraded o-ring said that SuperLube keeps this o-ring lubed better and longer than silicone-based lubes. Here's a link to the specific SuperLube he recommends: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref He said that he uses this SuperLube on ALL of the o-rings in his M3 because, again, he has found it to keep the o-rings better lubed and lubed for longer.
• 
  
• (NOTE: The last step I took below is likely unnecessary, and the above steps will probably solve the problem for most people)
• UPGRADED THE VALVETUBE: I purchased a custom valvetube from AGN member mubhaur. This valvetube has a PEEK SPACER/BUSHING inside the valvetube next to the o-ring (part 19768). The valvetube that comes stock on the M3 doesn’t have a threaded end that allows it to be removed so that the two o-rings inside the valvetube can be easily accessed. So it was difficult to replace the 2 o-rings inside of FX's valvetube. The stock valvetube also doesn’t have a high strength peek spacer/bushing to support the sealing function of o-ring 19768. The peek bushing also ensures that there isn’t any metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and the valvetube. He explains the rational for his design in the video below at the end of this post.

After these changes, when the gun sits overnight, not even first shot is slow. The fps is exactly what it was when I last shot. Velocity is also more consistent. Fps spread used to be +/- 6fps. Now it’s +/- 2.

As described in the original post, before these changes the first 20 shots would be slow: starting at 100 fps slow and gradually increasing with each shot. And if the gun sat for just 10 minutes the fps would drop by 30 fps.

***MORE INFORMATION***
The seller of these o-rings https://www.ebay.com/usr/mudpro1 is very knowledgeable about this issue with the M3/M4. He answered all my questions regarding how this o-ring could make a significant difference. He owns an M3 Impact and was experiencing this same problem. FX didn't offer him any help after months of contacting them, so he decided to make his own fix. He is a machinist who makes precision parts for a living, so he has access to many manufacturing resources. He had these o-rings made specifically for this issue with the M3/4. These o-rings are harder and smoother than the stock o-rings.

The seller of this upgraded o-ring also makes an upgraded valvetube that utilizes a peek bushing held in place by a thumb screw, which results in less o-ring compression and ensures that there is no metal-on-metal contact between the valve rod and valvetube. I didn't purchase his valvetube because the upgraded valvetuve that I purchased from AGN member mubhaur has been working very well now that I have the upgraded o-ring. Both of these improved plenums have a similar design, incorporating the peak bushing and a removable screw for easy access to the inside of the valvetube. The ebay seller does not have his custom valvetube listed on ebay yet. Message him directly on ebay if you'd like to purchase it, and to ask him questions. He's very helpful and knowledgeable.

So until FX provides us with a redesigned plenum nose, more durable valve rod o-rings, and a smoother valve rod, those of us who are experiencing this issue with our M3s and M4s should do these things:

1. Deburr the ends of your hammer spring if you see a burr.
2. Polish our valve rods (see the update to the main post for how to do this. $15 for polishing compound)
3. Upgrade our valve-rod o-rings ($12 from ebay seller mudpro1)
4. Lube the o-rings with SuperLube Synthetic Grease (around $7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref)
5. If the above 4 don't fix the issue to your satisfaction, then consider buying a redesigned plenum nose from either mubhaur or https://www.ebay.com/usr/mudpro1 Both of them charge around $225-250 for this piece.
==========

Where can I order altaros king .22 slugs in the US that are in stock? Thanks

I have a couple of guns that need re-blued. I'm looking for someone who can do original level bluing/blacking for a Theoben.

Any recommendations?

Hi,

My Yong Heng is almost 4 years old and its dying. However I am looking at the Tuxing Double(twin) Cylinder just the standard model since I got all the filters already from my Yong Heng.

Does anyone know if the Double Cylinder model is more reliable then the Yong Heng for filling a 7 liter tank? Does it fill faster than a Yong Heng due the design? My Yong Heng served me well but it is so damn loud. I considered a dive compressor aswell but thats a bit out of my budget.

Talking about this model :

I have a Webley Vulcan 177 from about 1979. Birmingham marked, beech stock, no grip plate, no white buttplate spacer, pencil bbl, but ser# 907890. Is this a Special Export? How about that ser# that starts with 9?

What’s everyone’s favorite slugs to shoot from their panthera or dynamic? Shooting the jsb ko’s right now with decent success but thinking about trying the altaro kings

I’ve read about folks running their PCP compressor off their car batteries. Has anyone done this successfully with their Tesla somehow? Perhaps connecting to the 12V lithium battery?

Looking for some help.
Have an AF Texan upgraded with a lot of African Air Ordinance parts. Hard as hell to cock, so I changed to a shorter spring. Seemed to help that issue. The auto safety has been removed pervious to the aftermarket upgrades. But now every other time I shoot, this piece is getting stuck under the hammer catch, and I have to break down the gun every time and remove it from under the catch. Do I need this? Can this come out? What is it used for?

My HP SS .22 cal fires well without a mag. I load a mag and it misfires. Apparently the action is not going back all the way. This happens throughout the full range of fill.
Anyone experienced with this issue, and who has a fix?

Thanks.

I recently purchased my first PCP riffle a Hatsan 50 cal. Right out of the box it had 0 BAR in the tank and my compressor wouldn’t fill it up so I got a SCBA tank filled to 300 BAR and tried to fill it with that. All the air leaked out the barrel of the gun and I was unsuccessful in filling it. Anyone know what to do hatsan isn’t responding to my emails and I’m not sure what to do.

I am new to this forum. I recently sent a 300S to David Slade at AIRGUNWERKS for rebuild. When the completed rifle was returned by one of the national shipping companies it came out of the box in pieces. I am reaching out to the masses looking for a replacement stock. I would love to find a left handed stock ( I know I am dreaming but it never hurts to ask). Thanks in advance for any leads.