Having trouble getting my rifle to hold zero.

Equipment:
Gamo Varmint .22 33mmOD/ 29mmID cylinder spring piston break barrel
Offset one piece scope rings
UTG bug buster 3-9x32, rear shimmed
H&N Baracuda 5.52mm 18.13gr

Shooting position:
Seated bench
Block for forward rifle support; no rear bag

Summary:
I’m looking for any advice or thoughts on zeroing my scope and getting it to hold zero. I got my air rifle about a month ago for pesting needs. Shot about 300-400 pellets through it. So far I have tried 3 different pellets and so far it seems to like barracuda 18s. Once I zero my rifle at 20yards, it can reliably shoot 1/2” groups at my shooting table and often drill the same hole. I’ve become pretty comfortable with my artillery hold although the heavy trigger sometimes makes for a tough shot particularly at ~30yards. Approximately <1” grouping.

Every so often, my zero will shift slightly when I check and shoot targets. One time I realized one of scope ring screws was loose so I checked and retightened them and then re-zeroed. Then another day it was off slightly again although holding a decent group. POI can be off both vertically and/or horizontally by 1” to 1-1/2” at 20 yards. It’s getting frustrating not being able to depend on my accuracy when I need the shot to count for pesting. Any advice?

-Should I loctite my scope screws?
-Is my scope broken? I have been trying to make sure the rings and scope are secured but also being aware of not crushing the scope. The rifle has quite a bit of kick.
-Is the accuracy shifting a sign that the barrel is still breaking in?

Really sorry for the long post. Tried to provide as much relevant detail.

What are the best power upgrades to do to an fx dreamline bottlepup in .25?
I'm getting 865 fps with 30.86gn baracudas on max at 150bar, I think its a 700mm barrel. Does that sound about right, or do I need to retune?
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A power plenum would need stock modifications to fit.

For you 1720T owners out there,

Have you ever had either or both of your H.S. adjusting screws back out of adjustment on their own ?

Several times now I've adjusted the 1/8" & 3/16" head H.S. adjustment screws where I want them and then after "some" shooting, anywhere from 20-40 shots most often, one or both of the screws will be 1/4 turn or more counter-clockwise to where I adjusted them.
I can tell when it's happening because the normally very accurate pistol will start shooting poorly. It usually starts shooting a little low I think because of the adjustment screw or screws backing out. I don't think it's ever gone clockwise on me.
It only started doing this a few months ago. I've owned this pistol a few years and it's never done this before. Set it and forget it was how it used to be.

I've taken it apart and checked / cleaned everything but this weirdness keeps happening.

Or, maybe MY screw's come loose.

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also the hatsan jet1 air tube unscrews and if appropriate to know what threads it has.
thinking of getting a notos and if the threads are the same getting a dual tank conversion kit for the jet and making a notos subcompact..
I know it won't be regulated but spacers around the firing pin and turn down hammer spring pressure should do the trick.. only wanting around 500 fps
Mark

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anyone in Ohio looking to part ways with an airgun ?

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Hello
I have a brand new rifle , zero tunning.First time i've tried to set it on 175 m/s on 0,177 calibre.The speed was very inconsistent.I 've changed the plenum to a pellet plenum.Much better but far from good.I understand that the rifle will not work on that speed,and i try to set it to 16 J , maybe on a higher power will be more consistent. The chrony shows me 2-3 m/s deviation.Ok.I put the rifle in the case set on 16J ,next day the first 5-8 shots are 25-28 J .Two things was set by me.The regulator and the hammer spring . Why is the speed increasing with the smallest plenum?

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I have a Diana Bandit in .22 cal. Haven't shot it in a while, so today I thought I'd shoot a bit. Problem is, it will not hold air. Fills OK, but as soon as I bleed off the compressor, the air cylinder bleeds down too. What do I need to do to correct the problem?
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Hello .
Could someone help me / advise me why the speed of the bullet changes significantly with the Epic Two 700mm. The first 3 shots were perfect at 100 meters but then they started to have a big spread so I measured the speed and it jumped from 290m/s to 220, 310, 250...

My apologies if I missed this specific leak discussion.
I can charge my M3 to 250 Bar and within a few days, the bottle pressure gauge and the first regulator gauge show 160 bar and the second regulator gauge reads 90 bar. I've used leak detector on all the usual suspects but no bubbles. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. TIA

Anyone tried 59 gr Zan slug in .30 FX Panthera/Dynamic or King with 600mm superior heavy liner?

I recently purchased a P35X in .177, primarily because of the added 65 cc plenum and the longer barrel. I purchased it from mundilar in Portugal so no power limitations.


However, I can’t get it to shoot faster than 860 fps with JSB Exact Heavy 10.34 grains even with the hammer spring fully adjusted.


I’ve also tested:

• JSB Beast 16.20 gr = max 720 fps.
• JSB Monster 13.43 gr max 776 fps.
• JSB KnockOut Slugs in both 10.03 gr and 13.43 gr max fps = even less then the two pellets mentioned above.

• I expected it to have around 29 fpe with the jsb beast 16.20 according to others reviews, but I'm close to half of that fpe, 18, 65 fpe / 720 fps when shooting the jsb beast. 16.20.

Has anyone experienced similar performance limitations – and found a solution?

I've noticed depending on the weather the air guns I have will fluctuate what it displays on the air gauges from day to day even though I haven't used them
I was wondering if anybody else has experienced similar things with the air guns
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