I am very new to hunting with a airgun so I'm wondering can you hunt small game using a .22 pellet rifle in Virginia?

The flash on the phone"only took a year"The one on thebottom is no flash,the other 3 are flahers.What da think?

Purchased a .30 cal Hatsan Blitz and heard of the problems people have had with the gun leaking air while filling. Well, I went to fill my gun for the first time and sure e ought had that problem. If anyone knows how to resolve this issue or are familiar with this problem, can you please help? $900 gun and ready to use it. Thanks everybody!

Of course, I can’t find the fill probe for me Ataman ap16. None to be found online anywhere! Anybody have an extra one?

I have a question and looking for advice. I purchased online a brand new Leshiy2 package deal that came with a Peazy. Upon receiving the package among other issues, I cannot plug the PeaZy in to the gun unless I fully disconnect the stock. It’s too big to even just unfold the stock. The problem is that they did not install the fitting the twists to expose the side port fill holes and only have a male foster fitting in place of the bottle. I asked the person who sold it to me to explain how to fill the gun and he said to twist the fitting to expose the fill ports. I explained that there are none and had to send him a video of the gun he sent me showing that it doesn’t fit. His resolution is for me to disconnect the stock every single time I want to fill the gun. Since I am not using a bottle, imagine how much a an inconvenience this will be and I also explained that when I’m in the bush, do I sit the gun down in the dirt while I fumble and fill the stock. Filling the stock with a Peazy is not a one hand process. Wasn’t the Peazy and EaZy created to be faster?.. I’m actually working backwards here.
I received the gun in august and we are still fixing previous issues along with this one. He is trying to convince me to disconnect my gun, sit it in the dirt or hang it on a tree so I can fill it. He’s forgetting that even he thought all I had to do was twist it. I don’t understand the reason of selling me the leshiy package with a Peazy if I have to work harder to use it.
That is the story and now my question is to anyone. Can you please give me your thoughts on this one. I don’t want to mention the person and be disrespectful but I feel that I’m only asking him to fix the issue and give me what I paid for. Please send your thoughts.

Hello,
New to this sight and was interested in reaching out to Firewalker for a Notos bottle conversion. Not sure how to PM on this sight, Does Firewalker have an email address? Sounds like he has done quite a few conversions and is interested in doing more?
Thanks!

Greetings. New member and first post. I am new to air guns as I recently acquired a Diana Model 35 from my father-in-law. I believe he purchased it in, what was then, West Germany around 1950. It has seen little use, and has been well stored. It probably has not been fired in 10-15 years until one recent test cock and pull with no ordinance. That may have been a dumb move on my part as I'm not sure what, if any, maintenance has been performed. I assume that good seals are key to a compressed air rifle.
I intend to keep it and explore the air gun world. Starter questions:

When I did the one test fire. It had a sharp report and a healthy kick. How to lubricate?
As a new guy, would it be wise to take this to my local vintage gunny for a once over?

I'm also curious about the manufacture date as from what I have read so far, there have been several mods to the gun before it was discontinued/replaced in the 80s. It does not have a manufactured date anywhere on the metal body. There is a lovely image of a woman (statue?) dropping her bow and arrow while her airgun overhead.

Any other advice for the novice would be appreciated. Thanks, Daniel

I have a vevor high pressure 4500psi. It runs and pumps air until I hook it up to my rifle. Then the motor bogs down and stops. What could cause this? Thanks for your time

Last year I bought an Agm thermal clip on for night pesting and what not. I had to make no adjustment to the first gun I had it on. This fall I changed guns and it is off by about couple inches low and to the left.

I have re-read the online manual about 50 times to try and figure out how to adjust the POI. Unfortunately I misplaced my hard copy of manual. When I first got it I went through all the functions and figured everything out. Put it away for the summer and forgot the functions. It seems to me there was a push and hold two buttons to open the POI adjustment. However this does not seem to be the case according to the online manual but there are also more menu options shown in the manual than in my unit. If anyone has any help or a quick way to adjust the POI I would appreciate it.

How many of you guys have had gun tuned by Paul Watts?
I sent a Hw97k blue laminate in .20 caliber to be tuned by him maybe 8 years ago and it's still shooting strong as ever. Sweet tune that last forever.

Kinda of a good idea?

I have a Pard NV007SP and my scope is a Element Titan 48 mm in the back side. The adapter ring that came with my Pard doesn't fit with the scope. So I've tried to find out a 48 mm adapter ring for the NV007SP, but there are only for NV007S. My question is: Does the adapter for NV007S fit with the NV007SP?
Thanks in advance

Thank you for the trade! @Tamatie The .177 Taipan standard is taking down big iguanas no problem with the .177 h&n hornets

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well i get tired of problems and low qc of umarex gauntlet 30
so looking something that will work out of box
targets 100m or even 200+ if 100 become less fun
anything else in that price range 1400-1800 ?
thanks

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Not new to shooting, but pretty new to air guns. I am looking to buy a Seneca dragonfly m2 because of all the positive reviews and YouTube videos. The only pump pellet gun I have now is a Crossman 2100. It’s a nice accurate gun, but at 70, pumping it up is a pain. From what I can tell the Seneca is much easier, has a threaded barrel for a moderator and much easier to mount a scope. I will be buying a .22 for the a couple of reasons, much better for the occasional squirrel or woodchuck I want to kill, and it’s just way easier picking up and loading the larger .22 pellets.
I have not seen any negative reviews of this gun, but would it be a good choice for backyard plinking and occasional hunting?
I do not want to go down the rabbit hole of pcp, I would just as soon save the extra money for good pellets, good scope, and moderator.

Is there a competitive scope that's under 1k (new) for WFTF?

Anyone knows?

Wondering about the male end of my 0DB that came with BRK Atomic XR. I'm new to the PCP world so please excuse my ignorance. I see all moderators come with a female end. My 110C has a male end. I assume it's removable. If so, how is it removed? I tried unscrewing it, but no go. Couldn't find much with my initial searching. If someone can enlighten me, that'd be really helpful.

Dumb question, but I was wondering how to post to classifieds. Do I need to wait a certain amount of time or have a certain number of posts? New to using forums, usually just use Facebook. I just need a place to sell an airgun.

Thanks.

Just got a used crown mark 2 30 cal with 600 mms barrel. Wanting to shoot hybrids 44.5 in it at close to 900 fps that I can get. I read that 160 bar is max pressure. Is that true? I also read that Earnest Roe tuned the crown to 170 bar. What do you recommend.....Thanks...

Good evening all. I recently acquired a veteran compact. Sort of addictive these vettys are as this is number three. My questions are:
Is there a way to date the year of manufacture?
How many years where the veterans made in Ukraine?
Does anyone know the regulator pressure for .177 ?believe it to be around 120 bar??
Thank you in advance for sharing your experience.

Hello everyone
First of all does anyone know if the normal sized Predator Polymags fit the in the magazine of Gamo or can only be singled loaded?

Second of all has anyone shot both of these pellets recently and knows which one is better for accuracy or penetration? I have read that the polymags are better quality in another forum but it was like 15 years ago...

And lastly is there any difference between Predator Polymag normal vs short version except from the length?

Hello Airgun Nation

I hope you all can help me learn about making custom spring guides for spring piston air rifles. I thought I could reduce my learning curve before the chips start to fly by tapping into the collective knowledge of members here who have made custom spring guides. I would greatly appreciate it if they would share some of their hard earned wisdom born of experience. I will list some of the questions I have been considering, but would welcome any empirically derived advice.

I will begin by making a set of guides to fit the OEM spring in my TX200, but hope to move on to making improved guides for some HW rifles and perhaps others.

I know this subjects gets pretty deep in terms of really tuning a shot cycle, and I would welcome some suggestions about how to think in that regard, but my initial goal is just to dampen all spring vibration and get consistency in the rifle, I guess as measured by the chronograph.

I am thinking of starting with a guide made of acetal, for ease of machining. Is there a significant difference between the acetal homopolymer Delrin and generic acetal copolymer material? Have you had more spring guide failures with the generic copolymer material? Is there a compelling reason to use another guide material?

I am hoping some of you can share your “order of operations” for making spring guides?

I would love to know your reasons for doing certain steps before others.

Do you bore out the interior of the guide for the piston latch rod before sizing the outside diameter of the guide to the inside of the spring? Perhaps, even with a tailstock center this would make the guide flex too much and complicate turning to a precise diameter? I have never worked with acetal on a lathe.

Does anybody bore the interior then mount the guide on a mandrel for turning the outside diameter?

Do you use a slip washer in front of the top hat?

Are you using a two piece rear guide and leaving a loose fit between the part of the guide that goes into the spring, and the washer-like spring seat that slips on to that longer part of the guide? I have read this can keep the guide from failing in the area where the longer part of the spring guide transitions to the flange that holds this slip on washer/ spring seat. This loose fit can potentially also help with both spring torque and latch rod misalignment on the piston. What type of clearance or “slop” are you allowing between these parts?

Do you have any details to mention that you think are important. Places to chamfer or radius the guide parts for durability or performance?

If you read this far, and want to help an amateur who is about to start making his own spring guides, Thank you!