Bought a Hatsan 95 a couple months ago. Went to shoot it earlier today and found this part coming out of the trigger assy. Not 100% sure on the name of the part. I believe it's #109 on the part diagram. What is the best route on resolving this? I prefer not to exchange the entire rifle as it seems to be accurate (I've read about bad barrels,etc) Thanks

Has any tried these pellets out in there avenge x. My barrel loves them surprisingly more than any others I've tried. Just curious.

Greetings. I've seen videos and read stuff about carbon fiber sleeves on PCP barrels. Why do people/manufacturers do this?

What comes to mind is that the barrels (the steel part that's rifled) are so thin walled that they can't be depended on to be/stay straight, so people add to their stiffness with tight fitting sleeves. Am I missing something?

If one were to stiffen a barrel by shrink fitting it into a metal tube (slight interference fit) or maybe epoxying it, it's not clear to me that it would be any better unless one turned that assembly between centers, thus hopefully making the bore and o.d. concentric. Would that be better than using a flexible sleeve?

Bores can be corkscrewed, too. But in the gunpowder world, it seems that the last inch or so of the barrel is what most affects accuracy, so corkscrewing (unless extreme) might not make a difference.

Or maybe someone sells stiffer, straighter barrels? One could buy a barrel blank for a powder gun and turn it as necessary to fit it to the receiver.

I guess I'm rambling. I have three PCPs (Marauder, AV bullpup and Hatsan bullpup, all .25 cal.) and would like to get them as accurate as is reasonably possible, given the time I'm willing to spend fiddling with them.

Suggestions welcome. Thanx.

Do you have any suggestions to improve the filtration system of my compressor? I’m planning to get the GX PCP filter, as I don’t have a pressure maintaining valve (PMV) in this setup, and I believe it could help more with water filtration. So far, there’s been no water and debris in my SCBA tanks, FX M3, or the other PCPs I own with this setup. Adding a PMV would be a huge upgrade—though I guess many of us don’t use one. However, when I didn’t have any filters, the oil smell was very strong—now it’s more manageable.
My concern now is that I’m getting a slight oil smell. Can I fully eliminate the oil smell?

CREDITS TO THE OWNER:

My Gk1 after a painstaking tune with 18.1 JSB at 760 fps was producing single hole 5 shot groups consistently, until things went south with a shift of POI downwards and to the left and a group size way over 1.5 “ at 10 yards… happened a few times and what I’ve noticed it was after 20 to 30 rounds and one or two fills out of a 2 liter tank which is making the carbon fiber tank on the Gk1 feel warm. Would give it a rest and try again and things go back to extreme accuracy… puzzling me, can’t figure out why! Could it actually be the barrel warming up and causing a slight warp or the tank transferring heat to the shroud? Anyone had that experience with their Gk1, would appreciate the input.

Hi Guys
This is my first post. I need some help.
I bought a Hatsan Flash-R QE .25.
Back in September. I've tried every kind of pellet (brand, weight, style etc) the best i can get is 6" groups at 40 yds. That is not acceptable. I need at least 1" groups. I have a good scope Hawkeye 4x12 adjustable objective. I'm 67 and I shoot a lot. Is there any fix for this rifle?
Should I cut my losses and get a better gun? I've had other pcp rifles. Air force, Benjamin. The Air Force was accurate. But was a single shot. I wanted a repeater. What do you guys think?
Thanks Deafelf

I've turned my Dreamline FX Classic to 945 fps with 18.1 grain pellets on high setting and 900 fps on medium setting. I'd love to get advice from others who have tuned their Dreamline, as to ideal pellets for this velocity. Is it better to go up to 25 grain? I haven't tested grouping accuracy yet at 50 and 100 yards

This hot weather has me thinking about a upgrade in compressors . I’ve got 2 GX-CS3
and had nothing but good things to say especially because parts are available for repairs somewhat reasonably and because the fact that I purchased them right before the Gx-cs4 was released and regretted it since not that the model 3 is not good . It’s a great compressor but hot weather causes it to struggle compressing longer fills .
I’m thinking about going for a one and done upgrade eventually like the 2 above mentioned compressors and getting a 6.8 tank .
It appears from reading the Tuxing dive compressor might fill quicker as it states 6.8 tank filled at a rate of under 30 minutes vs 45 for the Gx compressor but I like the fact that the Gx is watercooled for longevity plus having owned Gx compressors and knowing their quality makes it difficult to choose it out .
I was wondering does anyone out there have any experience with the blue Tuxing dive compressors . They have filtration standard and breathing quality air too . Electric or gas powered but I prefer the electric models . I wonder how getting parts for a tuxing would be as both are Chinese manufacturers I believe . How is he quality and longevity on the blue dive model Tuxing ? It appears to be a copied design of a coltri compressor design .Does anyone have any experience with either ?

Hey everyone. I have seen some great mods and dressups on the site and am wondering where to send parts for anodization? I’m in so. Cal and I’ve looked but meh. I’d be willing to look out of state and if a member here does it, even better. I have a large aftermarket plenum for my m60B and it’s all aluminum. I’d like to add some looks to it. Any thoughts/ suggestions?

177 webley tempest. The mushroom pellets I’m retreaving have white powder between the head and the skirt. What is this.

WHATS THE PROPER WAY TO DEGASS AN EVANIX X2 SNIPER .45?TIA

I'm trying to make some chassis for the drs and the Drs pro, I've been trying to look around for dimensions and haven't found any. I've tried talking to other groups and have gotten rude comments or got banned for it. here's the list of what I need
Total length (without chassis):
Barrel length:
shroud diameter:
Receiver Diameter:
Dimension of the trigger group:

Can anyone tell me about the part in the red circle. It is on the head of the low pressure side of a TXED012 compressor. I can find nothing that looks like it. My compressor suddenly refuses to go above 250 bar so I figured it was time clean the check valve. I disassembled the high pressure cylinder head and discovered the check valve is gone, the high pressure piston has only 2 rings ( only 2 grooves ) and was packed with some black grease. Everything I can find about Tuxing says there should be 4 rings and lightly oiled for assembly. I think I got a bogus machine.

I ordered an Airgun Capital suppressor/moderator for my JTS Airacuda Max in .25 cal. It looked like a nice aluminum unit and cut my decibels by 15+, but it turned my tack driver into a scatter gun. Inspection showed strike marks on the baffles and end cap which is marked .22/.25 cal. So I looked on their website and the only way to contact them is by email which it says is 24/7. Really? After three days and five emails I haven't heard anything from them. I'm always suspicious of a company that doesn't give an address or phone number for contact. Their warranty online is for 30 days and I'm hoping that they step up and give me a refund or a replacement.
So my questions are, has anyone else had a problem with AC suppressors, and how did they resolve your problem?

Hey folks the dragon claw 2, just as effective with the iron sights or no way needs a scope .what you folks think??

So, I've purchased an Air Venturi Avenge-X .22 and have been shooting it for a few weeks now. (and loving it). Ultimately, I think I want to try HFT. While exploring the gun, I started with JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy .22 in 18.13 gr for the first tin with delivery of the gun. At 25 yards (my backyard) I was stacking pellets in very little time with the only adjustments on the gun being limited to trigger pull adjustments. Internet searches of "Tuning the .22" quickly landed me at "Steve's Ultimate Guide" in which he's using the "Redesigned" heavier version at 25.39gr. So, I ordered those and spent several days trying to achieve the tune that he was displaying. Well, I'm getting close but can't match his exact numbers but am getting similar performance. However, the calculated FPE (46.9-50.89ft/lbs) are well over the 20ft/lbs specified by the AAFTA.org. Those heavier pellets, while are accurate at 50 yds are no more accurate than what I was getting BEFORE I spent 36+ hours tuning for the 25.39gr pellets, away from the stock settings that were pretty darn good for the 18.13gr version. Of course, I now have 4 more tins of 25.39gr in my shop LOL. I honestly don't know the speeds or energy levels of the 18.13gr pellets because I didn't have a working chronograph when I was shooting that tin.

So my question is, what grain pellets and tuning specs should I be looking for to shoot HFT with my .22 Avenge-X? I know a lot of folks prefer .117 caliber due to the flatter trajectory compared to a .22 but that's what I have currently. I am ready to order more pellets and am looking for those who know what they are talking about for advice since I obviously don't no anything about it.

Thanks ahead of time for any advice. It's appreciated.
Johnny Double G

I just received my mordax venom 30cal from Fox Airpower they had a good independence day sale. I charged it with my tank and noticed a hissing sound, slow leak coming from the power adjuster. Definitely coming from this area checked with soapy water. I've already contacted them with the issue, waiting to hear back. Does anyone know where I can find an exploded view / schematic for a mordax? I'm wondering what I'd be getting into to replace an oring. I hope it's a simple fix otherwise I'll have to send it back under warranty. Bummer was excited to receive this PCP.

Where mit someone find parts for Umarex Ruger 10/22?

I bought this piece of airgun history almost a decade ago. It was the most affordable way to step up from my Diana Stormrider, at a time when money was tight but accuracy was a priority.
This is the Calibr Hooligun, a single shot predecessor to the Kalibrgun Cricket. Almost all Information on this rifle has dissolved into the abyss of internet archives. I have just a few printed documents and schematics that could add historical context.
I guess the question is... Does this thing carry ANY value? It shows signs of its age but functions perfectly.

Crown MK1 Took a shot and lost all air in tank.
Tried refilling but air coming out of the barrel. Replaced valve and seat still slow leak out of the barrel. Ideas??

I just received a new RTI P3 and I know the bottle can be removed without taking all the air out of it. Is there any trick to doing this? Do I have to do anything else first? I have the power plenums in I want to install them but I'm a little nervous about taking the bottle off. Last time I did it with my FX impact I had to send it back because the air just kept coming out. Thanks in advance

I just got a refurb Seneca Dragonfly MK2 from Pyramid. I got about 17 shots through it and it stopped shooting. I was able to get the pellet out, but when trying to dry fire it doesn't sound like I am getting any air. When I pump it I notice some air escaping the hole in the underside.
Any ideas on what it could be or if it could be an easy fix?

I was wondering what you all think about prime day cs3i for 319. Is it a good deal, or just meh? Would 319 be better spent elsewhere. I'm not a heavy use shooter. What you all think?

Having trouble getting my rifle to hold zero.

Equipment:
Gamo Varmint .22 33mmOD/ 29mmID cylinder spring piston break barrel
Offset one piece scope rings
UTG bug buster 3-9x32, rear shimmed
H&N Baracuda 5.52mm 18.13gr

Shooting position:
Seated bench
Block for forward rifle support; no rear bag

Summary:
I’m looking for any advice or thoughts on zeroing my scope and getting it to hold zero. I got my air rifle about a month ago for pesting needs. Shot about 300-400 pellets through it. So far I have tried 3 different pellets and so far it seems to like barracuda 18s. Once I zero my rifle at 20yards, it can reliably shoot 1/2” groups at my shooting table and often drill the same hole. I’ve become pretty comfortable with my artillery hold although the heavy trigger sometimes makes for a tough shot particularly at ~30yards. Approximately <1” grouping.

Every so often, my zero will shift slightly when I check and shoot targets. One time I realized one of scope ring screws was loose so I checked and retightened them and then re-zeroed. Then another day it was off slightly again although holding a decent group. POI can be off both vertically and/or horizontally by 1” to 1-1/2” at 20 yards. It’s getting frustrating not being able to depend on my accuracy when I need the shot to count for pesting. Any advice?

-Should I loctite my scope screws?
-Is my scope broken? I have been trying to make sure the rings and scope are secured but also being aware of not crushing the scope. The rifle has quite a bit of kick.
-Is the accuracy shifting a sign that the barrel is still breaking in?

Really sorry for the long post. Tried to provide as much relevant detail.