I usually only hunt archery, but I thought I would put together a deer gun in case I wanted to switch it up. I thought I would share my thoughts, a few pictures, and some numbers.


I normally hunt thick areas and don't have many shot opportunities longer than 40 yards, so I went to 35 yards and sighted it in. It took about 3 shots to get on target then I shot a group. I got 3 in the same hole then the recoil started getting to me. I sent a 4th shot down range and that was more than enough for my shoulder for the day. Did I mention it kicks like a mule!

A few photos and info of the setup.
- Gen 2 Zeus .72 w/ 16" barrel
- Metal Mountain chassis & muzzle break
- Magpul PRS gen 3 stock
- Hogue grip
- Limbsaver buttpad
- Air Tanks Plus foster fitting cover
- Primary Arms 2 moa red dot sight



Varmit Knockers 658 grain Wad Cutter Pellet. Picture taken with a .20 jsb for size reference.


I was shooting tethered to a large tank at around 4000 psi. Here is the shot string. Shots 1350-1356 were my sight in. Shot 1350 was lower psi before I hooked it to my tank. Disregard shots 1346-1349. Needless to say I was impressed with the power output at almost 900 fpe in a package with an overall length of under 40".


Conclusion:
The zeus is a beast of a gun! This thing is LOUD, rifles HEAVY, triggers HEAVY, it's an AIR HOG, and it KICKS like a mule. with that being said, it looks bad a$$, it handles 100x better in the metal mountain chassis, it's fairly compact, its getting tons of power from the 16" barrel, the trigger is heavy but it breaks clean and doesn't have creep that I noticed, and it shot 1 hole at 35 yards if I did my part.

If you have any questions on the chassis don't hesitate to reach out to Mountain Metal Products. They answered all my questions and responded quickly.

If you made it this far I applaud you. feel free to ask any questions.

P.s. the rubber band is my home made pellet holder banded to the stock. If anyone has a better option for carrying ammo please lmk.

The gun has been stored in a case in a cool, dry closet. It has been stored with tank pressure is 210 bar.
The 1st reg was set to 200 bar and the gauge reads 200bar.
The 2nd reg was set to 150 bar and the gauge reads 155 bar, so it has crept 5 bar during the 6 months of storage.

would anyone have an idea why my .25 impact has become very loud all of a sudden with no adjustments done recently

Just got a zelos and it’s leaking air slowly. The pressure gauge is dropping but the reg gauge is staying where it’s set even after the pressure gauge has dropped below the reg. So I can rule out the poppet valve right? Any ideas where it’s leaking from and has any one else dealt with this problem already?

Curious if the calendar gets checked very often, or if mainly the competition shooters use it.
Wanting to put up our monthly funshoots to see if the info gets out to those who may want to participate. I tried doing it through the social feed and not too sure that is working. Figured if it was posted in "General," it would get lost as other threads were started.

Looking for reviews for the Diana two forty air rifle from members who have experience with them.

I'm kinda new to airguns so still learning but have a quick question... Will a DonnyFL adapter fit a Hatsan Flash .25? Thanks in advance.

When tuning a R10 with a Vortek kit do you have to replace the cocking shoe with the new style one? Jimmy V

I'm trying to talk myself out of a Ghost. Do they ping?

Hello everyone, thanks for having me. This is my first post regarding my first PCP. I’ve owned a few handguns back in my twenties which was thirty plus years ago but this is my first real airgun.

I think I got a pretty good deal on a used AEA HP Max .495 which came with a 10.5” Donny FL Emperor moderator, a 6.25” extension, and a cheap VEVOR pump that’s actually not half bad for $500. I’ve only put one round through it so far as I’m still figuring everything out and I’m just a little weary since it is used. The person I purchased from didn’t seem to know much about it, except that it put lots of holes in a dead dryer in his basement lol

Can it be left cocked?

Also, any thoughts or suggestions on inspecting cleaning, what to look out for on a used PCP with about 100 rounds through it would be greatly appreciated. I purchased a patch worm pocket field kit for cleaning and have been watching lots of YouTube videos etc. Thanks for any help or tips. I appreciate it!

MOD EDIT: suggestive content removed

I am thinking about getting an Avenger , is the action block still a polymer where the shroud screws go

Hi. I am new to the forum. I would like to know how to date a C model Sheridan Bluestreak Air gun. Thanks in advance Jted

A few weeks ago I bought my first air rifle. An seneca double shot 50 cal. After about 30 shots it starts leaking out of the barrels .is this a common problem ? I live in the netherlands in europe And there are no parts availeble here. Do you Guys have any idea where I can find parts ?

Looking for a bottle adapter
Ii think that's what they call it
The part that threads into the regulator and then you screw your bottle on
I just noticed a hairline Crack coming from the shut off screw.
Anyone know where to buy these ?

just Wanted to know if you can use a after market air bottle on the Hatsan factor sniper long. really leaning towards buying one but just not sure if its able to use a after market air bottle. Thanks and Happy shooting everyone

Looking for someone that does tuning and servicing on AEA rifles. I have an Element Max .50 that I deer hunt with. I need someone to look at it. Not sure what’s going on with it. I took it out today for the first time since deer season last year and I couldn’t get it to shoot accurately at all today. The sweet spot for it was 200bar but after 30ish rounds I filled to capacity, 300bar. One shot it dropped to 150. I’m a newb to all of this and don’t feel comfortable taking it apart myself. Thanks for any info on someone creditable.

Am I missing something. Have recently fixed 3 leakages. Regulator and both 2x1 orings in the cavity plugs.

But now 1week later its leaking again. Approx. 1-3bar/hour so its not super small.

But I cant find it. I have checked all these places 2-3 times now with leakage spray/foam.

Any ideas? don't know what to do next except complete re-sealing except the ones I already changed.
But How can I not spot a leakage this big.

Tried a balloon on the barrel for 2 hours but nothing, unless it leaks into the shroud and out somewhere else?

When scoring an N50 card is it considered an "X" if the scoring plug hides the center dot, or does the center dot have to be hit or removed?
TIA!
Mike

Yong Heng gauge and the fill station gauge show 4000 psi. Gauge on Scott SCBA shows full. Is this normal?

So I noticed on gamo's website they have

and

they're both .22 Swarm Magnum's but one is a "pro". what exactly does the "PRO" have that the "regular" one doesn't?

EDIT: ignore that one is a bundled kit. im just using that page to reference the rifle. its visually different from the PRO so im curious what all is different about it.

hi everyone

since the valve is a big factor regarding the tuning process of the fx impact
can i tune the gun for slugs and pellets at the same time?
for example the hammer wheel on 10 for jsb 34 gets me 920 and 14 gets me 960 on HN 36 gr slugs
OR do you think valve opening and closing will be an issue regarding accuracy while tuning for both ?

Just purchased a new AEA Megalodon .50 cal. Does anyone with experience know if this beast has a degas port like the other airguns I own?

I've edited this to fix the several spelling and grammar mistakes. I feel really dumb after reading them all. Sorry to anyone that had to read the original post...



Hello! I'm new to the forum, but this seems like the best place to get advice. I am not new to airguns, but I am new to the FX Impact. I work on all of my guns—centerfire and air—and have never had this many issues. I'm almost ready to throw it in the trash.

I am including all of my problems, even though they might not be related.

Some Backstory:
I bought a Demo FX Impact M3 .22 600MM from Utah Airguns a few months ago and have had nothing but problems with it. It seems that every time I buy an airgun from them, there is some major problem with it. I guess I haven't learned my lesson. To start off with, my "functioning gun" came with a junk regulator (4 disks flattened and caused severe reg creep). Then I installed a new Huma regulator. It was also missing a few random parts that have been replaced. I installed a Slug Power Kit and had several issues with power consistency. I have since removed everything, but the hammer weight. I have installed a STX heavy barrel liner and a carbon fiber barrel sleeve. I have lightly glued the ends to keep the sleeve from moving. At some point the valve rod bent (not sure if it was like that when I received it or after, but it has since been straightened out within a few thou). The first stage of the trigger sometimes gets hung up and won't reset. It will then proceed to fire when on safe. I have tried adjusting it, but the issue always comes back. There have been a few other problems, but I'm sure you guys don't want to read an entire book.

I currently have about 450 slugs through this liner. I am currently shooting NSA 31.2gr @ 990fps. My tune is 1st reg @250 bar, 2nd reg @ ~173 bar, front valve adjuster @.404, macro @14, and micro @ 4.375.

Now to my current problem. Every time I take the gun out of its case (after sitting for a day), my zero/point of impact is severely off from the day before. It seems to trend down and to the right about 2" at 40yds (my zero). I have had some extremes as far as 4 inches to the right. I check my velocity every time I take it out, and it stays within 5fps of 990fps. I can refill my bottle and shoot as many rounds as I want, and it will not return to my original zero. When I put the gun away for the day, I lay it down on its side on a foam pad. There is nothing that should be tweaking the barrel. The temperature and humidity have stayed roughly the same throughout all of this. I have tried retuning my gun a few times, and it doesn't seem to improve my situation either.

So far I have done the following to try to help remedy the poi shift.

1.) Carbon Fiber Sleeve (I have never tried shooting this with the factory o-rings)

2.) Ensured that everything is torqued to spec (scope base, scope rings, backbone, pic rail, barrel clamp, set screw that attaches and holds down the barrel by the transfer port.)

3.) Put on a trusted scope that has never had any issues before.

4.) Retuned the gun and ensured that nothing was getting bumped.

5.) Checked weights and lengths of slugs to ensure I wasn't getting weird seating depth issues. Also includes making sure slugs are clearing the transfer port.

6.) Swapped to 25cal Donnyfl moderator in case it was clipping

7.) Used gauge pins to ensure slugs aren't clipping shroud.

8.) Holding the gun in many different ways (I have heard they can be hold sensitive)

9.) Removed all o-rings touching the outer sleeve of the barrel

Some potential issues that may be causing it

1.) The carbon fiber sleeve has about .010 of play inside of the outer sleeve. (Should it be a light press fit?)

2.) The scope rail does not allow for centered scope rings on the tube. The front ring has about .100 of clearance from the turret. It is currently sitting in the only place for proper eye relief.

3.) Possible bad o-ring that I can't find. (I have taken the gun apart several times and can't seem to find any that are bad.)

4.) The entire barrel system (related to the carbon fiber sleeve fitment)



I'm sorry for the rambling, but I am at my wits end with this rifle. Has anyone ever had this many issues with POI shift? How were you able to fix them? It would be nice to know why you decided to change the part(s) and how much it affected the outcome. I'm willing to try just about anything at this point. I don't mind spending money to fix it, but I am also getting really sick of dumping money into it. I haven't contacted Utah Airguns about this issue, but I will not be doing that. That's a story for another time. I have debated on putting an Airmarksman backbone on it, even though it doesn't seem to be hold sensitive. I have also considered sleeving the old liner and glueing the carbon fiber sleeve to the outer liner, installing a tensioner, or machining a solid barrel. This is a hunting rifle, so I don't want to add a bunch of weight to an already heavy gun as I walk several miles every time I go out. First shot accuracy is very important to me, and I can't trust this rifle, which is a shame as I hadn't heard of anything negative about these guns until I really started researching the issues I've had.



I've attached a picture of my scope mounting so you can see what I am talking about.



Thanks for the help!

Fx maverick shooting all over the place will get 912, 889, 856, 816. Which i do wait for the plenum to refill and also have my first reg at 140 and second on 100. Also am shooting fx .22 atomic at 15.9 grains not sure why new to pcp but was told to have 140 for first and 100 on second dont know if it's just the tune.

Recently acquired the Bulllshark in .177. Actually shoots quite well for it's price. It currently shoots around 1100 FPS w/ crossman premier HP too hot for my needs. I'd love to be able to get this thing down to under 800 FPS. Is that possible and how? I can't seem to find any tuning instructions on this specific rifle. I'm assuming this can be adjusted via hammer spring tension and or regulator adjustments, but have no idea where to start. Any help appreciated.