Change to the stock hammer...

In. 308 really good mold options aviable .. I got 4 molds - 2 light 135gr and - 2 heavy 150gr .. when those arrive .. will see if there is something else i might want . Hope he gets better n enjoy his retirement..

Chukar60 said:

If you have a modicum of mechanical intuition the hammer weight change is not bad at all. There are plenty of videos on line that will walk you through the process.
IF you want slugs chances are you are also wanting higher FPE levels and for that you need speed and heavier slugs so the heavier hammer is going to be needed. I would avoid the tungsten hammer as it is usually more than what is necessary.

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There's a little 3d printable tool that helps. My distaste for the process is the opportunity for the rail and top strap to misalign. That issue was resolved in the M4 tho.

I'd recommend doing your reading and upgrade or modify anything you might want to with the gun torn down to that level. The slippery slope car guys know as "while I'm here, racecar parts"

Tastes vary but I didn't care for the shot experience of the heavier spring, I'm a heavy hammer preferring dude.

MtnMarksman said:

I got a brand new Delta Wolf from AoA in .177. My understanding is when using an advanced setting the values are fixed and the velocity should be very consistent. That is not what I am seeing but instead getting readings from the onboard chronograph that are all over the place with POI moving around with the velocity. Including a sheet of pics of the reading on the screen for a run of 13 shots. Pellets are JSB heavy 10.34 gr.

Any thoughts what to look at or should I reach out to AoA and tell them I have a lemon? Got the gun specifically as Daystate recommends this model for benchrest which my club only shoots in .177. Looking to use 800 fps as my velocity so I can also shoot silhouette at the club where there is a 800 fps max and not have to deal with scope zero changing with different velocities.

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try cutting the hammer dwell time down to 1500, then work up from there...when I had mine years ago, and it was a 177 also, I ran with the hammer at 1500-1600 dwell time to cut down airflow behind the pellet and wasting more air. Mine was VERY consistent with any 177 pellets I fed it.....your voltage looks about right to me as I remember...

Jgarret7 said:

Is the hammer weight change necessary?

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Not always, the different calibers often come with different hammer weights for the factory. Mine being 22 and me chasing max power I did the tungsten hammer. I do recommend you have a chronograph and just take notes and quantifiable measurements of your gun settings first since you bought a tune and then mess around a bit and see where your hammer maxes out for plenum pressure capability. You can find what she can really do in stock form. If you can get 80 foot pounds I think you're in business for baby hogs and I know your gun can do more than that.

I don't want to overwhelm you yet with too much data, but id buy some of the lighter 30 slugs that interest you and try them out of the pellet liner. I could shoot the majority of the bottom half of the slug weights really well with my pellet liner to at least 100. Then elr hunting bit me and I needed to stabilize a better bc and the tungsten hammer for valve dwell and 150 bar came in for my 700mm. That it does but it's somewhere between the fun of a pellet gun and the safety concerns of a rimfire. I stopped the research at a good accuracy node and for noise and capability was good for me at 75 foot pounds. Good enough to shoot thru some moderately weathered 1 inch cdx plywood on accident with a 60 yard shot.

I usually talk people down off the slug wall, but you have the land and the use, it just takes away the fun of a quiet efficient laser plinker sometimes. That's why there's more guns.

N50 rules do not require certifications. They only stipulate that tanks can not be on the bed top.

Ed, O-rings are generally sized by the ID and cross section thickness so I’d think the same ID as your butyl ring would crossover to the. Poly one?

manabeknives said:

Having the tank certified DOT allows you to go to dive shops/paintball store to fill the tank. Every 5 years, they need to be recertified.
If you have your own compressor, the DOT is not necessary.
I have not seen any place check to see if the tank was certified at a competition.

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Yes, I understand having the cert for commercial refill. Thanks!

Scout just looks like a Snowpeak T-Rex with diff mag which goes for $207 on amazon right now. Even with modding its loud.

Hunting go with that, quiet backyard plinking go with modded Notos.

fishing43 said:

First 2 airgun squirrels, Huben gk1-25 cal. Bought from member drsquall , built by krazkool airguns. Great memories made this morning.

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Like Ted says, Gotta kill 'em to grill 'em. Good job !!

Avator said:

Where does the lost grease go?

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What do you mean by lost grease ?

Where does the lost grease go?

If you have a modicum of mechanical intuition the hammer weight change is not bad at all. There are plenty of videos on line that will walk you through the process.
IF you want slugs chances are you are also wanting higher FPE levels and for that you need speed and heavier slugs so the heavier hammer is going to be needed. I would avoid the tungsten hammer as it is usually more than what is necessary.

Ok got the regulator out and measured where it currently is at. 50.1mm which is after I maid the initial 1/2 turn CW through the tube. So I am assuming that I did adjust it correctly the first time. @JimD when you say the useful range is from 50.4-50.6mm, is that basically the range between the 2 o-rings? I'm trying to understand how this works. I'm assuming the outlet hole needs to stay between the 2 o-rings, and by adjusting the adjuster screw clockwise until the lower o-ring (in pic) is almost touching the outlet hole, this will get me the lowest setting for the regulator?



IF that is correct, I'm thinking I could get a more accurate measurement with the adjuster out of the housing to have a better idea as to how many turns I need to make to get the lowest setting. Or do I have this all wrong???

I've had two K1's and a GK1, great guns..... can't argue with that! I would have no problem buying one again in the future.

However, you are aware that the Slash has a removable magazine and multiple safeties?

My new Daisy is coming along so well. Just some polishing and final assembly.

This listing has been renewed

So I got a resolution. I REALLY gotta hand it to Air Venturi. After the fast email and advice to adjust, I decided to call. The tech (Ted) was great. Explained it all and offered to send a new regulator. We talked it thru and although I do feel comfortable doing the replacement, the guns only 2-3 mo old. I felt it's best that they do it. Told me 3-5 weeks but typically on the low end of that.
Now that it's packed up I'm a little regretful for not digging in myself. He told me it wouldn't void the warranty doing it per their advice. This was though I know it'll be right.
He told me that although over time drift can be common, a failure like this is rare. Just my luck I guess.

I'll update when I get it back.
Thanks to everyone for the advice.

maxtrouble said:

I do not recommend MidwayUSA for pellets. They are well known for their piss poor pellet packaging.

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Good to know. I always pick up my order in person so no shipping.

bernieorosz said:

While we're waiting for jpiperson2002 to reply, I can tell you this.

My Slash Tactical Compact .22 gets the following:

• Bar Fill: 290-295
• Reg Setting: 165 bar
• Pellets: JSB/FX/AEA 25.39
• Total good regulated shots: 58
• ES: 28
• SD: 5.1
• FPE: 50.5

I don't shoot slugs, and only have 3 pellets mags, so usually only fill to 270-280 bar or so. Plus, gun is new so I expect the ES and SD to drop once regulator sets in.

This compact has a 420mm barrel, and I don't need a moderator with a 50 fpe gun! It's one of the very few PCP's I've owned without moderator in my suburban backyard.

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huben k1 bullpup is now $1700 since its summer sale going one right now might be better off get that one

bernieorosz said:

While we're waiting for jpiperson2002 to reply, I can tell you this.

My Slash Tactical Compact .22 gets the following:

• Bar Fill: 290-295
• Reg Setting: 165 bar
• Pellets: JSB/FX/AEA 25.39
• Total good regulated shots: 58
• ES: 28
• SD: 5.1
• FPE: 50.5

I don't shoot slugs, and only have 3 pellets mags, so usually only fill to 270-280 bar or so. Plus, gun is new so I expect the ES and SD to drop once regulator sets in.

This compact has a 420mm barrel, and I don't need a moderator with a 50 fpe gun! It's one of the very few PCP's I've owned without moderator in my suburban backyard.

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not bad but for $2500 gun thats little dissapointment

GX CS4 every 10 hours and total time now is 30 hours...

Trucker3573 said:

Try setting it in warp and see if there is consistency

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That is the one I removed to open a slot for a 177 set. Lucky I backed up the settings first