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jps2486 · Jul 8, 2025

Leave the cast iron piston ring alone unless you see it broken. These never wear out, but unless you are really careful, you could break it when removing it.

bfloyd1095 · Jul 8, 2025

Hi Guys

Well, I think I May go back down the DEEP rabbit hole of swapping my avenge x back to .177,, (glutton for punishment I guess)

As some of you know I have a thread with the "trials and tribulations" on this subject, I never really got the gun to shoot worth a damn with that particular caliber.

My personal opinion on the subject is the Minimum reg pressure of the factory reg is Way too high for .177 caliber 10.34gr and under projectiles.

My thought is to see if there may be another reg that can be used so there is More adjustment on the lower sides of things??

So, the question at hand is there a Huma or other aftermarket reg that will fit the Avenge X?

Don.Chipmunk-slayer · Jul 8, 2025

As of 12:01pm EST, it's in Hodgekins Il.

gbmarcht · Jul 8, 2025

yenniedn said:
I just got an M4 this week and didn't believe this was possible but am having the same issue. I've had dozens of Impacts throughout the years and don't ever remember any of them having this problem - at least not to this degree. It's pretty commonly known (and somewhat accepted) that the first shot or two after sitting idle for some time can be low but I've never had an Impact take 10 shots to warm up.

My tune is similar to the OP's (shooting 0.25 26.54g Hades at ~920fps). When I went to shoot it this morning, here were the first 11 shots:

844fps
844fps
865fps
590fps (user error - double fed pellet)
877fps
881fps
885fps
888fps
891fps
891fps
891fps

At that point, the string leveled out and I started messing with the settings. It was also interesting that the fps settled in at 891 whereas the last two shots from the night before was at 929fps. This is only day 3 with the M4 so I'm still playing around with it but it is really perplexing that the first 10 shots would be 60-80fps lower than normal. Hopefully this is just a breaking in issue that will improve with more use but if it's not, this would be really aggravating because there was absolutely nothing wrong with my 0.25 M3 that I "upgraded" from...

Will play with the M4 some more and see what happens.

Could be break in of the regulator if gun is brand new, otherwise velocities all over the place 1st 10 Shots like the M3 Not acceptable on a brand new gun. Just ordered plenum o-rings from Accu-shot to try As a fix, will post results

Don.Chipmunk-slayer · Jul 8, 2025

Bramezy said:
Just remember your always moving the bullet to where you want it to land when your adjusting left and right and up and down. Bullet hits low, you want to adjust it UP.

Like I finally figured out. When I adjust the scope, I'm not moving the crosshairs to the POI, I'm moving the POI (in the field of view) to the crosshairs.

Normkel · Jul 8, 2025

Gos said:
The parallax on this scope isn't so sensitive that I could use it as a range finder, so the wheel is just fine.

Do you use the wheel for quick parallax corrections?

Bramezy · Jul 8, 2025

Just remember your always moving the bullet to where you want it to land when your adjusting left and right and up and down. Bullet hits low, you want to adjust it UP.

Ema · Jul 8, 2025

Franklink said:
Another method is to set yourself up to do either hold over or dial the turret.

Just need an intuitive reticle. MIL works best for my brain. By doing it this way you can even shoot out past the maximum vertical travel in your turrets. Say you need 16mil of holdover for a shot but scope only goes to 8mil in the turret. Dial the 8, then holdover another 8.

I have a little laminated dope sheet for each gun/caliber/scope. Sometimes stickered to the gun, sometimes tucked into the gap between action and stock. But on the card are just two columns/projectile. Left column is distance, right column is clicks. With a nice clean mil reticle/mil turret the click value is pretty easy to turn into a holdover if the quarry seems like it might bolt before the clicks can be made.

Hi Frank, can I ask you something about that: on SFP scope holdover change with the changing of the magnification but if I use turret stickers and adjust the POI with turret it dosn't matter on what magnification I'm it always work correct right ? I'm always talcking about SFP scope

Don.Chipmunk-slayer · Jul 8, 2025

Since I have a single-shot pump, I wouldn't be able to shoot a group with it locked down. But still, I'd be able to fire one shot, adjust the crosshairs to THAT POI. Then fine tune it with the rifle on a full rest, just not locked down.

On a magazine fed / PCP rifle, your idea would be ideal.

RoosterCogburn · Jul 8, 2025

but also, if you increase your hammer strike power above the peak for a given set pressure, you're now wasting air

Pellets&Pistons-(Razor62) · Jul 8, 2025

Watching this one. Very nice work, my friend. Curious, though...... This one's not a lefty. Are they that hard to come by? "Cuz I'd love to find one in left hand.

Deerstalker · Jul 8, 2025

This may help some.
Rifle scope sighting adjustment, POA = point of aim & POI = point of impact.

1. Start with the rifle/scope securely mounted on a table/bench where it will remain stationary with NO movement.
2. Use a paper target that is set out at 25 to 100 yards from rifle/scope.
3. Fire a 3 shot group without moving rifle/scope using the same (POA) for each shot.
4. Look through the scope and locate the center of this 3 shot group on the target (POI) and make sure that the rifle/scope is NOT moved.
5. WITHOUT moving rifle/scope, adjust crosshairs on the scope to the center of this 3 shot group. The scope crosshairs will now be pointing at the center of the 3 shot group fired by this rifle/scope combo at this sight in range
6. Repeat steps 3, 4, & 5 to confirm or fine tune the accuracy of the scope adjustment.

Air King · Jul 8, 2025

Amsoil makes an excellent compressor oil at a fairly reasonable price of about $20 a quart, available in many stores or online, no detergent, high pressure lubes added, and a flashpoint over 500 degrees. It meets the ISO 46 standard advised for high pressure compressors.

lbc_PSI · Jul 8, 2025

Air King said:
It attaches to the Sig at the barrel, it simply won't group, wildly goes every which way. On the Avenger it's via a DonnyFL adapter and groups maybe 5' (feet) at 35 yards and won't group beyond that, just scatters.

Compared with the Buckrail, the Sig groups 1-2" at 35 yards, the Avenger is like a dime or tighter, really spot on. But not as quiet.

My review is fair and honest, say what you will but I'll not compromise, the air gunning public has a right to know about my experience with this product.

I’m going to guess it might have something to do with the weight of the moderator. The Buckrail is a 3D print. The Mod40 is all aluminum. The weight at the end of the Sig barrel probably causes a lot of back forth up down motion at the shot. If the Sig barrel is not contained by a stiff shroud this may be your problem.

IMO 1-2” @35yds is not really “grouping”.

Byahkin · Jul 8, 2025

looking to see if I can find a sandbag on prime or make one of my own. My block is definitely just a band-aid for what I had lying around to use. @Hateful McNasty I really appreciate your advice and coming back to this post with suggestions and pointers! It’s given me some structure on what to look at to problem solve. Cheers everyone.

moyley87 · Jul 8, 2025

ChickenDumpling said:
May want to contact Utah Airguns and visit with them or whomever is an authorized distributor/repair service provider in region. Maybe there is a trick to the repair.

Appreciate the comments

Air King · Jul 8, 2025

BigHUN, I see the bottle of Super Lube o-ring goo there, good stuff, I shoot it into the piston housing of my Vevor box every half-hour of run time, it's kept it from dying I think. I use a syringe with a large bore needle with the sharp ground off.

But you missed the point of my previous comment. Mobil 1 turbo (kompressor) oil is not air compressor oil, nor should automotive motor oil ever be used in a high pressure system. The standard here is ISO 46 type air compressor oils, preferably something with a high pressure lubricant additive. Nor should you run a detergent oil, which won't allow the water and sludge to separate in the oil and drain to the sump.

Read up on high pressure compressor oils and the ISO 46 standard that Yong Heng recommends, because Mobil 1 isn't one of them. I think you're getting excessive wear and perhaps even detonation in the piston, that's why they're going out. You'd be much better off running something like Amsoil compressor oil, which has no detergent, has high pressure lubricant added, and a much higher flashpoint than Mobil 1.

Airgunoregon · Jul 8, 2025

Jezter6 said:
IMHO you were doing good right until the last line. Yeah, we need to encourage ways for new shooters to get into a match and still knock down targets. No, what we dont need is people with 20+ years of FT going out there and absolutely dominating a newbie friendly class so that it's unsurprisingly 'uncompetitive' for the noobs to join. Adding in cash prizes just to give the old guys more incentive to go beat up on new people will SURELY bring more fodder for us to stomp on.

Sounds like we might need to add some rules to the low price point equipment class. Maybe no competitors with over 2 or maybe 3 years of experience allowed?
What else would make it work to make it easier to enter the game and keep them coming back?

RoosterCogburn · Jul 8, 2025

Bigbaby said:
It’s a .25 with a 600mm barrel shooting JSB 25.39gr. My velocity dropped when I increased pressure above 100bar with same hammer setting. I may try again with higher pressure if my accuracy is off, right now I’m just happy to get my velocity back to where it was before I started messing with it.

Correct, when you increase pressure, you increase hammer SLOWLY. go up 10 bar, click up 1 or 2, shoot 3 shots... see where velocity goes, then click up 1-2 more, see where its at. until it stops rising, or it drops. wherever the velocity stops rising or drops, is your absolute peak velocity for that regulator pressure. Then roll back a click or 2. that'll be your sweet spot.

The air presses against the valve, Every 10Bar higher, thats 150lbs more force pushing on the valve stem. so your hammer has to strike harder to get a full open. More air pressure also pushing on the pellet.

So, when you raise your pressure 10-20bar and leave the same hammer set.. you're going to lose a lot of speed. You have to work up the wheel. but do it in controlled small increments. 1 hammer wheel position can be the difference between a good spread and a perfect spread.

2muchair4leyla · Jul 8, 2025

Ordered an L-tech back in September of 2024 it's 2025 still don't have it no contact from them saying hey we're working on your order nothing no response to my emails, at this point feeling like I got scammed are they a legit business?
So I tried to contact them by phone their site and Email no response you can only wait so long with lack of communication

just didn't feel right so I've had to dispute the charge with Visa I'll let them handle it from here . WARNING IF YOU ARE PURCHASING FROM THESE GUYS LEAVE AND EMAIL TRAIL AS LONG AS POSSIBLE IN CASE YOU DON'T GET WHAT YOU PAID FOR

Bigbaby · Jul 8, 2025

RoosterCogburn said:
what projectile are you trying to shoot? which barrel length, what are you trying to do.

100 on a .25 can obtain 900, but pretty low. Might have better luck at 120-130

It’s a .25 with a 600mm barrel shooting JSB 25.39gr. My velocity dropped when I increased pressure above 100bar with same hammer setting. I may try again with higher pressure if my accuracy is off, right now I’m just happy to get my velocity back to where it was before I started messing with it.

brandanbooth · Jul 8, 2025

RobBonnell89 said:
They must of fixed it. It’s working now. Now I gotta decide if $50 worth of parts is worth $40 shipping haha. I better find more stuff to buy

That's why I always go to order from them and I can't make it past the checkout. The shipping is just to much.

Ema · Jul 8, 2025

orion said:
Yes you are right, I was confused thinking about holdover, the yardage in the turrets are not going to change with the magnification, the holdovers do in a SFP

This is something interesting that I was thinking for a while, you guys can confirm me that on SFP scope holdover change on the magnification but if you mark your turret and adjust reticle with them it shouldn't change with the different magnification ? Thank you !

Ratzy · Jul 8, 2025

OldVet said:
Thanks .

De nada, senor
Alles gut, ja?

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Air Venturi Avenge x Replacement Regulator

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