I've had the same experience with both of my HW95s.
The factory springs and piston seals were of poor quality. The springs broke after not much use along with the piston seals.
I installed springs from Air Rifle Headquarters along with Vortek piston seals. I now get great shot cycles along with very good accuracey.

I’ve just ordered a Gideon Optics Omega Red dot sight and Huma MOD30 mini moderator, both for my GK1 for when I use it as a pistol

AlanMcD said:

That is pretty sweet. Have an Air Ranger, and it is just an awesome gun, so I'm sure I would like the Red Wolf. I've kind of looked past it as the form factor is so close to what I have, but maybe I'll have to give it some more thought . . . I've often thought that if the Huben had the accuracy of my Air Ranger that I'd sell off everything but the Huben, but maybe a Heliboard equipped Red Wolf might be a good compromise. I was hoping the new Taipan Slash could be the one, but so far the adjustability does not seem as easy as on the Huben or your Red Wolf.

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Why is this? Do you prefer the Huben's form factor and operationally?

Interestingly, some K1s seem to be extremely accurate. I've seen 50 50-yard shot that is virtually a hole-in-one type of accuracy. One guy on Youtube shoots 300 yards and wasn't a challenge enough, so he took 4 shots to hit 2 coke cans at 500 yards. I know, sounds preposterous. I think his is a customized, but I'm not sure how.

Also, THANK YOU AlanMcD and Arzrover for your great info.

Slyde said:

A bud has the Sidewinder in .25 also. It has been a good gun until lately. It will randomly decide to not fire a pellet. When it happens, we have to completely de-gas it, then it will fire again. But for no rhyme or reason it will happen again. It may work for several days in a row, then happens, de-gas, an hour later it’s not firing again, de-gas, works for a day…etc. Has cost him many squirrels and several woodchucks.

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Teenage attitude….

Apollo said:

Yes, thank you!
Did you shoot it until the velocity started to drop, and thus know what pressure the regulator is set to?
That way, we can determine the air consumption per shot for .22 25gr at 912fps.

Btw, the thicker grip suits it well

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I did shoot it until it dropped then removed the few shots afterwards to get ES. It also wasn't a full fill and I shot it 4 times prior to going over the chrono to settle the regulator in case it needed it without ammo. So it may get 60 at those velocities with those pellets.

ddkroetz said:

Is there a chart somewhere that lists the optimum velocity for various pellet weights and calibers?

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Maybe let us know what pellets you are using and what type of rifle. Those with similar set-ups can give you a place to start. From there it will require you to test each pellet/ velocity combo to get your desired results. I can tell you that as a general guide that JSB lead, domed pellets will typically work well in the 885-910 fps range. That has been my experience across multiple air rifles in .177, .22 and .25.
Kenny

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drug2 said:

Hello

has anyone built a run-on timer for their compressor. Tuxing/Yong Heng??

I want to install it inside the compressor and connect the fan and the pump so that they continue to run for about 15 minutes after being turned off.

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The vibration would quickly destroy any relay/contact based timer, do it outside the unit.

Yes, thank you!
Did you shoot it until the velocity started to drop, and thus know what pressure the regulator is set to?
That way, we can determine the air consumption per shot for .22 25gr at 912fps.

Btw, the thicker grip suits it well

moyley87 said:

Either somthing in the path of the radar or might have it on backwards. The writing on the chronograph should be facing the gun

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I am ashamed to admit it. But you are right I had it on backwards. I looked at some pictures and videos and realized what was going on.

The price difference was irrelevant to me. I purchased the model with outboard 12v supply because I wanted the waste heat dumped outside the compressor case and because I have several alternative12v sources for my short-wave radios.

ddkroetz said:

Is there a chart somewhere that lists the optimum velocity for various pellet weights and calibers?

Click to expand...

750-950 fps.

Here's the string. I started all new 1st reg at 145 bar, 2nd reg at 105 bar, hammer on 6, screw out one turn. Virtually no change from all the strings I've shot.
1 832
2 860
3 887
4 884
5 866
6 886
7 861
8 831
9 853
10 876
11 847
12 877
13 889
14 860
15 885

avg 866
es 58
sd 18.8

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I bought a barra 250z in .25 today. They even had a sweet military discount! Hoping to do some shooting with my son and eventually bag some rabbits. I live on 50 acres and we have hundreds upon hundreds of rabbits. I already bought a zulus 5-20 to put on top of it and am looking at ordering a moderator from STO to keep my neighbors happy. I have a 100 yard range at my house, looking forward to sending some lead down range next week hopefully!

Apollo said:

Anyone of the new Slash owners who had the opportunity to test on precision, shotcount, etc?

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I listed shot count in .22

rangur1 said:

I'm sorry, I read this 2x. When you say the .218 is not liked by your slash, how so? You say they are as consistent as the .217

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I haven't been able to test at the range. The mag is too narrow to allow .218's into it without a lot of pressure.
My other 550mm cz un-ckoked barrel (epic, taipan vet II ... .22) like .218's
Assuming the barrel in the Slash likes .218's as well but they might even get sized down below .218 from the tight magazine and I have no idea if .217's would work as well as .218 (might)

Ratzy said:

I'm sure it has something to do with protecting a revenue stream. Probably want you to buy a tophat and bottle if you wanted to put a CF bottle on the gun.

Niksan has the rear bottle and adapter on the Escalade rifle thread locked.

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AF might counter that since the CF bottle is at a higher pressure, it needs a valve tuned for that, and so they only provide the correct valve-tank combinations. One downside to something that is idiot-easy to work on is that idiots will work on them. They could still have revenue if they sold bottles and valves separately, but then might be responsible for the mis-use of those items. The 3000 psi valve on a carbon bottle is one thing, but a 4500 psi valve on an aluminum bottle... somebody, somewhere will fill that to 4500 psi.

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This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

Great review. A bit more specificity would be nice; pellet weight, slug weight, size of projectile (.249 vs .250 or .251) and maybe regulator pressure.

If it were a Daisy gun you would know as it would be stamped as the one Wadcutter shows. One of mine is a Daisy the other not, I cannot see any difference in the way they shoot.

Still trying to move forward.
Today, I checked:
* the hammer for marks where the sear engages. No marks, it looked like new, and very well finished.
the only real thing I noticed is the bore for the hammer is close. Not too close, but if the spring ends
were not exactly square, it might hang up a tiny bit. I really don't know what to say here, just an
observation. I did lube the bore and hammer with dry graphite to see if there's an improvement.

There's really not much more I can do right now. I'll let it set and then chrony it again. If no help then I'm going to go into the firing valve and look at the orings. They're not leaking but they could be sticking. On FX guns with the valve and hammer in the action like the Crown, Dreamline, WC etc and not like the Impact, the valve hanging up hasn't been an issue for me yet, but it's worth checking.

When I replaced the oring the reg fits into, in the action, it was hard and broke in my hands, and one of the orings on the reg adjuster was shot and deformed. So, it may point to an oring in the valve being hard/bad. That's next on my list, maybe a full rebuild.

Just a comment about the oring in the action that the reg sits in. If you let this oring get old and hard, it is really, REALLY hard to get out. It's hard to puncture and you literally have to dig a section out of it and work it out. It is a hard job. If it were me, I'd change that oring ever other year or whatever to keep it from getting hard. When they're soft, and you use good light, you can pop them right out with a long hat pin.

A tip on putting that oring back it, is insert the piston with the spring washers on it. This will keep the oring from going to much below the groove. Then it's just a matter of pusing it in place or pulling it up slightly with a curved pick. I plan on making a piece of plastic the size and shape of the piston height and tall enough to come up to the bottom of the oring groove and then it will be child's play putting it back in.

Went to local outdoor range today. 77 degrees but humid at 8:30am start time.

Shot three N50 cards with one near flag at 15 yards. 2nd flag in garage on work bench

My Taipan Vet 2 Long .22 cal with 700mm barrel is quickly becoming my favorite bench gun for 30 & 40 yard paper target shooting. It likes the JSB 20.83g, JTS 22.07g and AEA 21.9g pellets.

Wind was 1/2 to 5 mph. Pretty steady tail wind and if I was patient could get a 2 mph wind.

Shot a 240, 242 and a 244. I also managed to leave my reliable Randolph front mechanical rest home too. Big mistake, as the Accu-Tac is just not as solid as the rest. Plus, I had too much fiddling with my rear rest(s) between bulls.

Lots of photos.