The one that let go on me caught my wrist. I wore a nice bruise for a week or so. Man that hurt.

cjtamu said:

Kim drives 55 to work one way and when I go to the office mine is 70 one way. So 33 to pick this up was a no brainer. Cleaned up nicely, barrel is only thing that could use re-bluing. Two things were obvious after a closer look. Someone loved this gun and used it, this was no safe queen. Two, they took excellent care of it.

Crow, we and a whole lot of other people now feel the same about B&D Air. At best they’re a 2nd tier international airline now. Won’t get any more of our bidness.

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I wasn’t kidding. Worst service. This is actually the best thing, I’ve heard that they’re capeable of. Crow

beerthief said:

95 desrees /62% humidity , not to bad . did some shooting with the BSA break barrel .177 Tenex 4.51 8.2 gr , i should take this hunting squirrels . Very light weight gun and accurate 20 or 30 yards Irons sighted in @ 25 yards. If i sighted it in probably could do 40 yds . easily .View attachment 586632View attachment 586633 if i sighted in @ 40 . ( see the lake way down below this is my back yard range )

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Glad to see that you've got your pictures working again.

Pic

This listing has been renewed

Revoman said:

^^^^ THIS!

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Many people chafe at simple moderation rules which help to maintain polite and informative discussions in public forums like this. They are often the same folks who like to use profanity and post replies in CAPITAL LETTERS because it makes them feel good about themselves.

airman_o said:

I love the tactical handguard. But one think I'm wondering: is the clearance from the barrel wide enough so you can properly use the m-lok slots for mounting i.e. a picatinny rail? Or is is more for the looks?
In my experience it quickly gets very tight with the m-lok screws (almost) touching the barrel, and that's not good for accuracy.

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"

is the clearance from the barrel wide enough so you can properly use the m-lok slots for mounting i.e. a picatinny rail?

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Yes, of course the M-Lok slots are functional. This is a professionally designed airgun from a well respected manufacturer which has arguably produced some of the best airguns in the world.

As excited as I am for the Slash, something just feels "off" about the whole deal. The delays, the .30 cal version being pushed back, the fact that Taipan suddenly turned off the comments on their recent videos... etc.

It's also a bit strange how few videos of it exist on Youtube. Usually these airgun channels are jumping at the opportunity to be the first to review a new high-end rifle. I keep hearing that "reviews are coming very soon", and then weeks go by without hearing anything. So far, Nate is the only 3rd party who has a review up.

I'm starting to suspect that some kind of design flaw slipped through, and Taipan are trying to save face. They recently posted a video on how to fix cycling issues, and from what I understand they added a new adjustment screw to the receiver so you can fine-tune the indexing system. Projectile weight seems to play a role in this.

Maybe Im worrying about nothing but... If some unforseen problem came up, fine... mistakes happen. But then why not just be transparent about it? Why turn off your comment section?

NightKnight said:

I’d be interested in exactly what you adjusted and how you came to the conclusion what part you needed to adjust. There’s no parts diagram that I know of. Mine won’t cycle in full auto even though semi-auto works just fine

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This is for the original blitz. Good maintenance video. It covers the full auto gears and lubrication. I would guess most of the 777 is very similar to the original
There are other videos that cover hammer spring adjustment. Parts diagrams are on HatsanUSA website

Using the photos in this thread, I did a physical and aerodynamic analysis of these slugs. As they are solid, they are relatively simple to analyse for the physical properties. These are the results I got.

Mass 2.667 grams which is 41.1 grains
Ix 9.232E-09 Kg Metres squared
Iy 2.823E-08 Kg Metres squared

The CG was just over half way back along the slug. The mass is 1 grain over the claimed value, but is close enough for this exercise and is probably as good as I can get using photographs.

Using the calculated physical values, I used my aerodynamic prediction program. These are the results.



The most interesting result for many will be the stability. As you can see, with the 16-inch twist used in the calculation, the slug is predicted to be marginally unstable at most speeds above about 900 ft/sec. You will probably get away with a 16-inch twist, as the stability will improve as the slug moves down the trajectory. A 14-inch twist is needed for suitable stability, with a 12 inch-twist needed for a stability factor of 1.5ish, often taken as the ideal stability for best BC.

Treefrog said:

^ That's his old phone number. From before he moved from Gardena to Signal Hill.

New address and number

Cheers,

J~

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Odd, that's the number he gave me and I've been using to contact him and the zip code you gave is different from the one I used to ship my rifle to him

Mycapt65 said:

I was looking for another HW50 for lowering the power and peeps. I want one of those. My wife says my birthday is coming up. Where can I get one?

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On that note if I can't find this blue 50. I'm open for a modern 177 Hw50 trade for my R8. The 50 has to be near perfect and not have a lazer etched comp tube. PM me if you're interested.

All are .177 highest weight of pellet i use on chronograph i. 10.90 grains

NLshooter said:

Sounds like your barrel O-ring is worn.
Check the little rubber O-ring thats seats the bolt prod.

Replace it with a original from hatsan from www.aurgunseurope.com or just get a generic 7x1.75.
-10.5

Thats 7mm inner diameter, 1.75mm thickness and a other diameter of 10.5mm. incase of a .30 cal (.7.62)

Buy a little extra they are cheap.

You dont have to remove the barrel to get to the O-rings. Simply take a small flat screwdriver or something and fish it out. To put it a new one simply get one part into the grove, use the hexagon shape of the back of allan key and press and lead the rest into the grove by making s little circle (this needs some practise)

If this doesnt work remove the side plate on the right side (watch out those little screws are easy to strip. Correct size screwdriver and pressure are needed)

Now you will see a little plate that pivots. When you remove the cover it most likely Schoots or falls out a little because the hole in the cover holds the Pivot point in place. Clean it. And oil it and make sure you place it back so that the flat side of the pivoting plate is facing down to the gun and the little silver pushrod to the barrel end of the gun is sandwished between the pivot plate and the bolt. (Theres only one way for it to fit anyway).
Now place the cover back and gently tighten the soft metal screws. Rack the bolt up and down and feel if its smooth. Flip the full auto switch a couple times and shoot it.

Let me know what happens

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Thnx will check this out today. Side screws were backing out on their own

Welcome to the best A G N

by the response's so far you can see how easily it is to get 10 posts and 10 days (over coffee in the AM ? )

join in ! Stan in Kentucky

I did find an exploded parts view, but I’m still clueless on what could cause my issue. The diagram doesn’t list the actual parts names

So I finally took the dive and used some of my experience upgrading my Notos and took this one apart, assuming that the "power kit" supplied was to replace something restrictive deep down in the gun, which was the case. There was what looked to be a regulator, just like the Notos' one, very hard to get to and required taking the main tank off. Once that was swapped out, and I did the procedure they sent me videos of which involved removing some type of restrictor for European laws requiring certain lower levels of power, this thing was a beast. That "restrictor" I'll call it, was located underneath the picatinny, near the front underneath a 6mm allen hex plug. After removing that, take a 2" or so wood screw and center it down in there and make a few turns until the threads grab the thing. Once the threads feel stable & solidly in there, use pliers to pull the screw along with the restrictor out of it. Prior to these mods, the "regulator" valve would max at around 12-1300 psi. After them, it's all the way up to nearly 4k psi. Just short of the yellow band. It shoots LOUD - I mean like a medium caliber rifle type loud. Not as neighbor friendly as my Karma SLS or Notos by far. My question now is, I"ve gotten the power figured out but have no references as to how I can tune things now. It's a bit too much for accuracy and would like to do some dialing of the hammer spring, or if I have to replace that regulator back in for tuning purposes and get some consistent shots, might be an option. I hit 1030 fps with a 68 grain slug. 975 with an 81 gr. pellet - which did seem to have much better groups...but then again, I only shot off about 24 pellets, 16 slugs so far. A lot more to go for getting used to it.
It is pretty comfortable though, and lighter than my SLS, despite the butt stock being an air tank with a thin adjustable butt pad on the end. Still not 100% about it yet, but will see as time goes on. Could have gone the FX M4 route for the same cost, but the semi-auto & power had me in love with this idea. Anyone have this model, and how if I can moderate? Threads are bigger than the typical 1/2X20...My thread checker got it at 14mm, but not sure about the thread count as my reference kit didn't include threads fine enough for it. Just seems to be a really hard one to find information on anywhere - the MAX SW45 model that is. Thanks

NightKnight said:

I’d be interested in exactly what you adjusted and how you came to the conclusion what part you needed to adjust. There’s no parts diagram that I know of. Mine won’t cycle in full auto even though semi-auto works just fine

Click to expand...

Sounds like your barrel O-ring is worn.
Check the little rubber O-ring thats seats the bolt prod.

Replace it with a original from hatsan from www.aurgunseurope.com or just get a generic 7x1.75.
-10.5

Thats 7mm inner diameter, 1.75mm thickness and a other diameter of 10.5mm. incase of a .30 cal (.7.62)

Buy a little extra they are cheap.

You dont have to remove the barrel to get to the O-rings. Simply take a small flat screwdriver or something and fish it out. To put it a new one simply get one part into the grove, use the hexagon shape of the back of allan key and press and lead the rest into the grove by making s little circle (this needs some practise)

If this doesnt work remove the side plate on the right side (watch out those little screws are easy to strip. Correct size screwdriver and pressure are needed)

Now you will see a little plate that pivots. When you remove the cover it most likely Schoots or falls out a little because the hole in the cover holds the Pivot point in place. Clean it. And oil it and make sure you place it back so that the flat side of the pivoting plate is facing down to the gun and the little silver pushrod to the barrel end of the gun is sandwished between the pivot plate and the bolt. (Theres only one way for it to fit anyway).
Now place the cover back and gently tighten the soft metal screws. Rack the bolt up and down and feel if its smooth. Flip the full auto switch a couple times and shoot it.

Let me know what happens

^ That's his old phone number. From before he moved from Gardena to Signal Hill.

New address and number - **** personal information removed for cyber security.

Cheers,

J~

I was looking for another HW50 for lowering the power and peeps. I want one of those. My wife says my birthday is coming up. Where can I get one?

Umarex Canex Tractor Supply let me have 3 of them for $22.50 each, underrated rifle, people have no patience for CO2 I may have other dups but different years of production Opsi I forgot I had 5 Crosman 362's just gave one away, there is a 100th anniversary edition in that mix, but the others have been modded a wee bit.

Skip-in-WV said:

Are there any good inexpensive benchrest rifles?

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I shoot my HW97 tuned to 11.6 FPE .177 R-10 8.2 GR and score in the 170's very little breeze (2 to 5 mph . ) Home range not competition's , big difference . hard to do better with a springer. My Daystate Pulsar can do better but right now i am working on at least scoring 200 plus with a springer.
EDIT you might start out with the 30 yard challenge for a while .

MACTEN said:

Pure lead is very soft. I'm not sure what brand or mix the 3 on the left are but the one on the right that looks so bad is 100% pure lead which is likely why it looks beat.
But if they shoot like this who really cares. Afterall, the bore puts it's own imprint on them.

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I care, you need Flip Pallots view on this. watch and enjoy.. listen really close at about 1:07-..

RMCIV, I am 3 hrs south from FW off 45, if you get to this area or passing thru look us up. We carry air rifles and ammo in stock give us a call,