Mycapt65 said:

I was looking for another HW50 for lowering the power and peeps. I want one of those. My wife says my birthday is coming up. Where can I get one?

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On that note if I can't find this blue 50. I'm open for a modern 177 Hw50 trade for my R8. The 50 has to be near perfect and not have a lazer etched comp tube. PM me if you're interested.

All are .177 highest weight of pellet i use on chronograph i. 10.90 grains

NLshooter said:

Sounds like your barrel O-ring is worn.
Check the little rubber O-ring thats seats the bolt prod.

Replace it with a original from hatsan from www.aurgunseurope.com or just get a generic 7x1.75.
-10.5

Thats 7mm inner diameter, 1.75mm thickness and a other diameter of 10.5mm. incase of a .30 cal (.7.62)

Buy a little extra they are cheap.

You dont have to remove the barrel to get to the O-rings. Simply take a small flat screwdriver or something and fish it out. To put it a new one simply get one part into the grove, use the hexagon shape of the back of allan key and press and lead the rest into the grove by making s little circle (this needs some practise)

If this doesnt work remove the side plate on the right side (watch out those little screws are easy to strip. Correct size screwdriver and pressure are needed)

Now you will see a little plate that pivots. When you remove the cover it most likely Schoots or falls out a little because the hole in the cover holds the Pivot point in place. Clean it. And oil it and make sure you place it back so that the flat side of the pivoting plate is facing down to the gun and the little silver pushrod to the barrel end of the gun is sandwished between the pivot plate and the bolt. (Theres only one way for it to fit anyway).
Now place the cover back and gently tighten the soft metal screws. Rack the bolt up and down and feel if its smooth. Flip the full auto switch a couple times and shoot it.

Let me know what happens

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Thnx will check this out today. Side screws were backing out on their own

Welcome to the best A G N

by the response's so far you can see how easily it is to get 10 posts and 10 days (over coffee in the AM ? )

join in ! Stan in Kentucky

I did find an exploded parts view, but I’m still clueless on what could cause my issue. The diagram doesn’t list the actual parts names

So I finally took the dive and used some of my experience upgrading my Notos and took this one apart, assuming that the "power kit" supplied was to replace something restrictive deep down in the gun, which was the case. There was what looked to be a regulator, just like the Notos' one, very hard to get to and required taking the main tank off. Once that was swapped out, and I did the procedure they sent me videos of which involved removing some type of restrictor for European laws requiring certain lower levels of power, this thing was a beast. That "restrictor" I'll call it, was located underneath the picatinny, near the front underneath a 6mm allen hex plug. After removing that, take a 2" or so wood screw and center it down in there and make a few turns until the threads grab the thing. Once the threads feel stable & solidly in there, use pliers to pull the screw along with the restrictor out of it. Prior to these mods, the "regulator" valve would max at around 12-1300 psi. After them, it's all the way up to nearly 4k psi. Just short of the yellow band. It shoots LOUD - I mean like a medium caliber rifle type loud. Not as neighbor friendly as my Karma SLS or Notos by far. My question now is, I"ve gotten the power figured out but have no references as to how I can tune things now. It's a bit too much for accuracy and would like to do some dialing of the hammer spring, or if I have to replace that regulator back in for tuning purposes and get some consistent shots, might be an option. I hit 1030 fps with a 68 grain slug. 975 with an 81 gr. pellet - which did seem to have much better groups...but then again, I only shot off about 24 pellets, 16 slugs so far. A lot more to go for getting used to it.
It is pretty comfortable though, and lighter than my SLS, despite the butt stock being an air tank with a thin adjustable butt pad on the end. Still not 100% about it yet, but will see as time goes on. Could have gone the FX M4 route for the same cost, but the semi-auto & power had me in love with this idea. Anyone have this model, and how if I can moderate? Threads are bigger than the typical 1/2X20...My thread checker got it at 14mm, but not sure about the thread count as my reference kit didn't include threads fine enough for it. Just seems to be a really hard one to find information on anywhere - the MAX SW45 model that is. Thanks

NightKnight said:

I’d be interested in exactly what you adjusted and how you came to the conclusion what part you needed to adjust. There’s no parts diagram that I know of. Mine won’t cycle in full auto even though semi-auto works just fine

Click to expand...

Sounds like your barrel O-ring is worn.
Check the little rubber O-ring thats seats the bolt prod.

Replace it with a original from hatsan from www.aurgunseurope.com or just get a generic 7x1.75.
-10.5

Thats 7mm inner diameter, 1.75mm thickness and a other diameter of 10.5mm. incase of a .30 cal (.7.62)

Buy a little extra they are cheap.

You dont have to remove the barrel to get to the O-rings. Simply take a small flat screwdriver or something and fish it out. To put it a new one simply get one part into the grove, use the hexagon shape of the back of allan key and press and lead the rest into the grove by making s little circle (this needs some practise)

If this doesnt work remove the side plate on the right side (watch out those little screws are easy to strip. Correct size screwdriver and pressure are needed)

Now you will see a little plate that pivots. When you remove the cover it most likely Schoots or falls out a little because the hole in the cover holds the Pivot point in place. Clean it. And oil it and make sure you place it back so that the flat side of the pivoting plate is facing down to the gun and the little silver pushrod to the barrel end of the gun is sandwished between the pivot plate and the bolt. (Theres only one way for it to fit anyway).
Now place the cover back and gently tighten the soft metal screws. Rack the bolt up and down and feel if its smooth. Flip the full auto switch a couple times and shoot it.

Let me know what happens

^ That's his old phone number. From before he moved from Gardena to Signal Hill.

New address and number - **** personal information removed for cyber security.

Cheers,

J~

I was looking for another HW50 for lowering the power and peeps. I want one of those. My wife says my birthday is coming up. Where can I get one?

Umarex Canex Tractor Supply let me have 3 of them for $22.50 each, underrated rifle, people have no patience for CO2 I may have other dups but different years of production Opsi I forgot I had 5 Crosman 362's just gave one away, there is a 100th anniversary edition in that mix, but the others have been modded a wee bit.

Skip-in-WV said:

Are there any good inexpensive benchrest rifles?

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I shoot my HW97 tuned to 11.6 FPE .177 R-10 8.2 GR and score in the 170's very little breeze (2 to 5 mph . ) Home range not competition's , big difference . hard to do better with a springer. My Daystate Pulsar can do better but right now i am working on at least scoring 200 plus with a springer.
EDIT you might start out with the 30 yard challenge for a while .

MACTEN said:

Pure lead is very soft. I'm not sure what brand or mix the 3 on the left are but the one on the right that looks so bad is 100% pure lead which is likely why it looks beat.
But if they shoot like this who really cares. Afterall, the bore puts it's own imprint on them.

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I care, you need Flip Pallots view on this. watch and enjoy.. listen really close at about 1:07-..

RMCIV, I am 3 hrs south from FW off 45, if you get to this area or passing thru look us up. We carry air rifles and ammo in stock give us a call,

Thanks, Mike. I saw your excellent write up on that gun last night while looking for more info on these old 30s. Will likely follow a similar pattern. And yes, so much fun to shoot! Put another 25 or so pellets through last night and has really woken up with use. You and KWK confirmed what I thought, seems to have a little more pop than the newer ones. At least that’s what the adult beverage can it kicked around said ha ha!

This listing has been renewed

I’d be interested in exactly what you adjusted and how you came to the conclusion what part you needed to adjust. There’s no parts diagram that I know of. Mine won’t cycle in full auto even though semi-auto works just fine

A fine rifle, for sure. You can't go wrong with any Daystate.

TM1000 is one of the most competitive. A little less expensive, but maybe just as competitive in the light varmint class (12 fpe) is the Air Arms HFT500. That's not to say there are others, because I'm sure there are.

crowski said:

Have to get you carbon dated. Crow
Shot my HW50 .20 again. Superb gun. Fly vaporizer. Crow

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looked it up and found made between 1932 and 1937 , best answer so far .

Seems like you’re in for a Treat… and you know it… Whatever critters you target are in Trouble… Post up your impressions when you have it in your mitts…

Glad to see it working itself out. 4-5 shots isn’t bad. Neither of mine fire the first shot of the day to speed when turned on. Usually 1-2 shots. To me is what it is, no big deal. I think part of the issue is this gun is made to run to a wide range of power. Like anything made to do such a thing when you run it at either extreme end of the spectrum it probably won’t be quite as good. Yours is on the very low end of its capabilities so it most likely plays a role.

I recently bought an HW35E in .177 caliber in blue. I liked it so much that three weeks later I bought a silver one in .22 cal. There are many others too, but I won't get into that.

Still looking