I have done regulator adjustments from both ends but lately I've just been doing it from the back like Florida_Man. Doing it from the fill port end of the airtube doesn't work if the regulator has been out recently or if the lock nut is pretty tight. You are depending on the O-rings to be stuck enough for you to get the lock nut loose. That would not appear to be what happened to roaoro but is it possible you did not get the lock nut loose so you just rotated the regulator with the screwdriver (I've done it)? In any event doing it from the rear on a Bullshark is not clearly a lot more work, depends on how good you are with a 18 inch screwdriver. After degassing the gun, I just loosen the two 3mm allen head screws on the clamping mechanism and unscrew the airtube from the action. Then take off the back nut on the airtube and if you are lucky the regulator comes with it. If not, you have to take off the nut on the other end of the airtube and use your 18 inch extension to push the regulator out. Taking the airtube off does make it necessary to get the clamping mechanism reclamped in the same spot but leaving the action in the stock (with the stock nuts loosened a bit) can help them not shift. Another helpful step for getting the clamping mechanism right is to have the safety on. That limits how far the mechanism can slide. I find having there be a little clearance between the safety button and the trigger guard is about right. I check to be sure it will cock, release the sear, and not release the sear with the safety on. There are positions where any of these will not be true.

Half a turn on the adjustment screw is a lot. I've done it but I've gotten my regulator messed up doing it too. I would try 1/4 turn. If you google up a picture of the Huma you can see the marks on the paper tape are a fraction of a turn apart. The SPA regulator is not identical but it's similar. It doesn't take much of a turn to make a meaningful change.

An advantage of taking the regulator out is you can more carefully control your adjustments. I've started measuring the total length of the regulator with my digital calipers. Lengths around 50.5mm seem to work. I measured the regulator of my P35-22 at 50.57 inches and then shot it down. I think it came off reg about 140 bar but it is a little unclear because the velocity started to modestly climb, not go down. I think the hammer spring might be a tad light for the regulator. It is not a terrible way to have it, however, since I was still getting very usable shots at 130 bar but it was going down at that point. The velocity peaked about 15fps faster than it had been. A full turn of the regulator screw will change it's length by 0.5mm.

Did you monitor your shots with a chrono? also, did you say you used both the STD stripper and the whisper insert with your printed baffle tube, and did you try with both completely removed?

This is with a 19 ft lb spring. I think I might go to a 12 ft kb spring and a different scope.

Wow! That was quite a "roundabout" OP! Good looking rifles...glad you got them all now.

Florida_Man said:

I’d suggest removing the regulator from the cylinder to make the adjustments, it’s the only method I’ve ever used. The P35/Bullshark uses the same regulator as the Notos just for additional information. I learned along the way to measure the exposed screw with calipers to know where I’m at. I think I saw Sub12 doing that. Take some shots and let it settle. If the reg is original I highly suggest careful disassembly of the regulator and everything in the cylinder being cleaned and lubricated with quality silicon grease.

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I'm struggling to find any info on how to remove it from the back. Would you happen to have any more info on this?

bchannell said:

Sear in upside down?

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it isn't..I had no reason to remove it in the repair..but I did remove the pins and pulled it out to inspect and reinstalled..pretty hard to mess up since the hole for the spring is in your face...still stumped .
thanks for the try

Treefrog said:

You make some good points, Mike. The Expected Service Life (ESL) of any piece of equipment should be considered ahead of time. Including our joints. Laying in the parts known to be necessary down the road is a wise thing to do.

The Sheridan no longer has the appeal that it once had because it's become painful to pump.

Cheers,

J~

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I

only pump my Sheridan 3 or 4 times usually 3 but i do not hunt with it . 25 yards killing paper is al .

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I have 6 night vision setups, 2 Pard clip-ons, 1 pard scope, 1 Zulus scope, 2 ATN scopes, the ATN's are older but still work, I loaned one to a friend,
BTW, A quiet air gun at 3 am is only loud to you and the dogs.....

cavedweller said:

Grew up in Ann Arbor

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We lived in East Detroit when I was born. I recently put the address on my birth certificate into Google Maps and It went right to the house where I was born. My older siblings said it still looks the same after all these years.
We moved into my Grandmother's place over near Ann Arbor when she passed

Spinach said:

Personally I have always had excellent service from Hill, perhaps most staff are currently on summer break.

Hopefully you get sorted soon.

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Thanks Mike! While waiting isn't my best thing it looks like it is what I will have to do.

MSR Workshop said:

So with a lothar Walter barrel I would try bumping your speed down to around 810 to 815.
With my Lothar walther barrel that seems to be the sweet spot. I have found so far.
Also, you might try turning your dwell down a whole bunch.
I found that with a higher dwell, I noticed a slightly increased point of impact shift.

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Thanks for the info, i will clean the barrel thoroughly tomorrow and try again.
Is'nt 810-815 too low for JTS .22 22.07gr ??
I will certainly try it though.

It should with no problem, it's rated at a continuous run time of 10 hours and will fill a 6.8L tank from 0-4500 psi in just 45 minutes! Complete specs are on the GX Pump website: https://gxpumpofficial.com/collections/portable-pump/products/gx-e-5k2?ref=GXProducts

If you purchase direct from GX Pump, be sure to use the discount code GX10OFF to get 10% off.

I just realized you said 100 cubic foot tank! Is that correct? That's 2831.68 liters, which would take approximates 312 hours, if my math is correct. So, it would have to be broken down to around 32 10 hour sessions, with adequate cool downs in between. That's one huge tank, did you possibly mean a 100 Cubic Inch tank?

Ada said:

Thank you... i will do that because i have been putting alot of pellets through it in the last 2 days.
I also have robla barrel cleaner, should i run it with patches and then maybe put a brush through.
I dont wont to accedently damage the barrel.

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Yeah, since it’s a steel barrel, you’re not gonna hurt it with a brass brush. Now, if it’s the stock scout barrel, which is aluminum with a Teflon coating definitely do not use any brushes in it.

schleprock said:

I just got a reximex throne gen 2. My first pcp. I shot about 25 times and then the cocking handle wont stay in the home position. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Is it possible you double loaded?

The black slider on your gun right above the cocking handle is not traveling to the full forward position.

Pellet probe not seating fully or possibly the shaft bent.

Two hex nuts (2mm I think) cover the shaft going back to the probe and magazine.

If double loaded you may have to take a long wooden dowel and tap the pellets out.

Ada said:

Hello to eveyone.
I finally hit the range today and tried many different combinations during tuning.
I will need alot of help because all i got today was very tight groups and then flyers out of nowhere in all configurations (with very little wind , but high temps).
I promised photos of my rig and here you are , for anyone who likes Skouts (sorry about the quality).
I was using JTS 22.07gr at 970 to 985 fps 1460 HP 147 LP with the air stripper, Whisper mod and whisper mod with the insert(which by the way is the quietest).
Groups varied from 1/2 inch at 50 meters/55 yards to 2 inches.
I have indexed the barrel and my dwell is 24.
Let me know what you think and have a great shooting day.

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So with a lothar Walter barrel I would try bumping your speed down to around 810 to 815.
With my Lothar walther barrel that seems to be the sweet spot. I have found so far.
Also, you might try turning your dwell down a whole bunch.
I found that with a higher dwell, I noticed a slightly increased point of impact shift.

just watched the RMAC 2025 video . watching the high power long distance guys bouncing around with recoil that looked like they were shooting .223 or 30 30 's powder burners .

You make some good points, Mike. The Expected Service Life (ESL) of any piece of equipment should be considered ahead of time. Including our joints. Laying in the parts known to be necessary down the road is a wise thing to do.

The Sheridan no longer has the appeal that it once had because it's become painful to pump.

Cheers,

J~

You , and your suck target made me want a high-end springer real bad. I think you are the master , and I need your advice. I can someday get my credit cards paid off , and my next airgun I buy will be a springer , or a gas piston. Which do like best.? What rifle would you suggest for an old vet living on a fixed income. I've got sucked into the PCP rabbit hole real bad , or as you call it. Can of worms. Anyway because of you I'd love to have me the best springer , or gas ram money can buy , but can only do it once , so my friend what do you say. I hope I don't have to go through the hell you did , and I'm very sorry that happened to you. I love the thumbhole stock on the 97K the best it's , so beautiful, and always loved my Sheridan pumper in .20 cal
OldVet.

This long forgotten Daisy was found in a box in back of my attic crawl space when doing some electrical wiring. It will shoot but really about junk now. It was seriously used and abused and no telling how many pellets went through it. Can't recall how young I was, but shot a little bird with it right after I got it. Didn't kill the bird, I brought it in the house and ask dad if we could keep it and make it better. He made me take it outside and shoot it in the head to kill it. I recall crying about being made to do it. That's how I was taught that guns were made to kill and you don't shoot at it unless you mean to kill it. Definitely different times, they'd probably call that child abuse now, and want the kid to go to therapy because of it.

Decided to change my FX Royale 500 factory tune from the 25.39 grain to 33.95 grain JSB KING HEAVY pellets.

I used a bit if heat to free the Lok-tite on the Hammer Spring adjuster nut and cleaned out the residue. Then I needed to make a M16x1 jam-nut to lock the Hammer Spring adjuster nut and a tool to install it.

Fun little project made from a bit of brass bar and a couple of finishing nails.

Now I need some calm weather to start testing and tuning.

Cheers!

SplitFeather said:

As someone who bought a springer for their first "high-end" air rifle, I would definitely recommend going with a PCP instead. There were several better performing options I could have gotten for the same amount of money, even with a pump included in the total.

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I bought two PCP failures before I finally dug way down in my wallet and bought a Crown. Then I was finally satisfied.
With help here at AGN he shouldn't have that problem.

daddypaddy said:

to me, springers are like wine in way that it’s a style of shooting that is acquired over time while pcp are like craft beer, lots of choices in the same price range but much easier appreciate and explore. i like wine but i like beer more than i like wine.

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Springers were a taste i never fully acquired. The stop, fold, load and find your target again was just annoying.

And I like good, well aged pinot noir and good Belgian ales.

ARH seal works great. I have it in my 52 and 56. It’s the hard old school type. If you’re looking for the newer blue seal they switched to I have no idea.