RobBonnell89 said:

Two of my Prods. Fun platform and accurate. Just got a 1720 to tinker with next

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@RobBonnell89
i have that same stock you have, thinking I would just drop my Airguns Revision HFT Marauder pistol in it…. Sigh, no fitment without some serious inletting. So I sold my HFT marauder pistol and I am trying to decide what to do with this beautiful stock?

dk-duck said:

this one buddy and it came with a plenum for the artemis p15. 1.77 cal we haven't got a clue how to fix it, or what the problem is! we've put it in the rifle but we're getting no speed (velocity) really the max is just over 400fps weather that's down to the regulator I don't know but it's a brand new artemis p15 and brand new huma regulator and I feel like giving up on it, this will be the 2nd rifle.... thanx

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I recently got the Huma reg w/extra large plenum for my Stoeger Bullshark, essentially same gun as Snowpeak, and I also got the regulator tester. Anyway, according to the tape gauge the reg came set ar 110 bar by the indicator mark on the set screw. There was also a tiny allen screw included that goes into the set screw as a flow restrictor and prevents any debris from entering reg. It's screwed all the way in then is backed out 2 turns. So that's what I did, maybe did 2 1/2 turns.
There was nothing about adjustments to a screw beneath the set screw. There's rebuild videos that may give information about that.
These are advertised as capable of being set to 155 bar. With the regulator tester I found my tape gauge to br slightly off, about 5 bar lower than marks. Counterclockwise increases the reg pressure. As directed, need to turn set screw about 10 bar above desired setting then back down to desired setting when increasing reg pressure. Lowering pressure can be just turned down.
Set mine to 150 bar and then it was just a direct install.
Two other things I did.
1st: I measured the overall reg length before doing anything and wrote that down for a starting point if/when the reg ever needs to be rebuilt.
2nd: I used an engraving tool and transfered the set screw mark to top of screw, and 140, 150 marks to flat face of the reg. Used a dab paint on a toothpick to color the marks, white for set screw, and orange on reg face. (What showed up best.) Now I can make approximate adjustments by those from front of air tube if needed.

You’ll need a chrono, I use a FX pocket chrono but I have a cheap amazon one that reads right with it and many use it.

Then you’ll be ready to tune your Avenger. The best YT explaining tuning to the knee.

cavedweller said:

I thought I would add an interesting and personal summation where I compared price point to overall suitability for Field Target.
This is quite subjective and it doesn’t mean it affected my scope choice or “final scope selection“
but….
as of 8/3/2025, the overall best bang for the buck, sub <$800.00, provided the reticle thickness agrees with the user at 16X is the Element Titan 3-18x50 in FFP,
but
Athlon Heras SPR 6-24x56 in SFP, providing the reticle thickness agrees with the user, creates a tie, because the I. Q. Of the Heras beats the Titan so….damn.

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I have the Heras and liked it so much I bought a second one.

Swagley said:

I’m trying to find out if Jd’s custom design is still in business? His site has been saying “ Sorry down to complete order and rebuild inventory” for at least 2 months now. Any info is appreciated as I’m trying to set up a new scope and I’m in need of a scope wheel.

Thanks

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What scope are you trying to get a wheel for? There might be a used one available?

like.2.fly said:

I ordered the DonnyFL 1/2-20 UNF adapter with the Avenger, so it should be modifier ready.

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Moderator- STO Falx moderate flow core, you’ll only hear the hammer hit. The moderate core can be used up to .30, so if you change calibers you’re covered. https://www.silentthunderordnance.com/air/falx

They actually work and are quiet unlike donny’s and stay away from FX also. I’ve already spent money on both, so you don’t have too I hope you get a good Avenger and enjoy it for a while. Then look at BRK, Taipan and RAW.

Compressor- GX CS2 very good for the money.

Swagley said:

I’m trying to find out if Jd’s custom design is still in business? His site has been saying “ Sorry down to complete order and rebuild inventory” for at least 2 months now. Any info is appreciated as I’m trying to set up a new scope and I’m in need of a scope wheel.

Thanks

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All of our wheel makers around the world are balancing full time jobs and their Airgun hobby with making custom wheels.
JD is responsive to texts and calls, so give him a jingle.

With a scope on top, this rifle is capable of beer can accuracy at 50-60 meters.

FIDI_G said:

I picked up a Minute 4500 PSI Scott tank from a local fire department. It is currently certified but expiring in the next month or so.

I'm looking for an adapter to convert it so I can fill my PCP Kalibur Cricket gun. I have a cheapie compressor. Does anyone know if the Amazon Fill Station Kit, PCP SCBA Fill Station Refill with 60cm Microbore Hose 0-4500PSI Charging Connector Adapter Air Rifle kit any good? I don't want this exploding in my face. Not many options and this a long with other options from eBay all look the same..


Link to refill kit on Amazon

Amazon.com

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Im sure that valve is fine. I would have no worries. That will do the job.
Or you can take the scba valve off completely and replace it with one of these that thread directly onto the tank



I have both, the saber tactical valve is very nice, probably the nicest valve out there, but expensive.
The 3rd option is aliexpress but I haven't ordered anything from there in a long time.

Take your time with a small compressor, 1500 psi at a time when you are trying to fill an empty tank from zero- 4500psi . Some small compressors won't refill large tanks. They aren't strong enough

Hello to eveyone.
I finally hit the range today and tried many different combinations during tuning.
I will need alot of help because all i got today was very tight groups and then flyers out of nowhere in all configurations (with very little wind , but high temps).
I promised photos of my rig and here you are , for anyone who likes Skouts (sorry about the quality).
I was using JTS 22.07gr at 970 to 985 fps 1460 HP 147 LP with the air stripper, Whisper mod and whisper mod with the insert(which by the way is the quietest).
Groups varied from 1/2 inch at 50 meters/55 yards to 2 inches.
I have indexed the barrel and my dwell is 24.
Let me know what you think and have a great shooting day.

RScott said:

Here are the numbers I got for the scopes I've used in Field Target, at 16x:
------------------------------------Degrees of parallax knob turn
Scope-----------------------------10-55 yards-------------40-55 yards

Sightron SIII 10-50x60 FT--------------225-----------------------13
Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50---------238-----------------------22
Immersive Optics 14x50-----------------75------------------------7

I think the degrees of spread for the 40-55 or 45-55 yard range is more important than the 10-55 yard range, since it is tougher to range longer distances.
While the Vortex looks on paper like it should be the winner, I get more repeatability with the Sightron, even though it doesn't focus in/out all that crisply.
The Immersive Optics prism is spectacular at crisply getting the focus. And it has a superbly wide field of view for fast target acquisition. But the knob range is so small, I can't judge repeatability. f they could gear the parallax knob to triple the turn range and increase magnification to 16x, it would likely be the winner.

Click to expand...

I thought I would add an interesting and personal summation where I compared price point to overall suitability for Field Target.
This is quite subjective and it doesn’t mean it affected my scope choice or “final scope selection“
but….
as of 8/3/2025, the overall best bang for the buck, sub <$800.00, provided the reticle thickness agrees with the user at 16X is the Element Titan 3-18x50 in FFP,
but
Athlon Heras SPR 6-24x56 in SFP, providing the reticle thickness agrees with the user, creates a tie, because the I. Q. Of the Heras beats the Titan so….damn.

This listing has been renewed

Georgii Arapov said:

Thanks for the suggestion. I was trying to find any sold items/ threads to check on that but I couldn’t find any. Not sure what they are selling for buy I will be asking around 2K for all the items. (Compressor, pellets, and other stuff)

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Looks like you are trying to get a jump on advertising.. might want to be careful with that. This has the air of dump and run to it considering it appears you are selling out of the hobby.
This is a forum where folks share experience. The classifieds are just an added benefit for the members. It's not strictly buy and sell website.

Croxton63 said:

Is this particularly true for guns set at just under 20ft/lbs? I wonder if it would work for a 15ft/lbs springer - I might have to try and see!

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The power of your rifle has no relevance to the scopes ability to parallax focus … it’s all about the optics … and just because you spend more doesn’t mean it will perform better in this particular type of test.
The element Titan is a $700 scope and to date spreads out the numbers on a 6” wheel further than any scope I’ve tested, but, image quality is not going to be anything like the $3000. Nightforce ATACR or the $1700 Sightron S3’s. AND, you have to work hard for repeatability… always a trade off.

Thank you very much!

miksatx said:

Peskadot do you have access to a 3d printer? I have a stl for a smaller moderator. that works great. even works on my GK1 .25 shorty.

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Do you mind if I ask how much you have invested in this set up shown in your picture, it is sick.
Deets on each upgrade you made?
Beautiful gun.
Have you heard about the .30 cal being released in October? I'm trying to find info on potential fps/fpe, as I am stuck in my head between .25 and .30.....
Thanks in advance.

GX also sales replacements for the rubber diaphragm. IMO. They are a better quality rubber than the one from the factory.

Two of my Prods. Fun platform and accurate. Just got a 1720 to tinker with next

CanMike said:

I wonder what rifle this has been based off. Lol

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If you're suggesting the Leshiy 2, think again. Totally different valve system. Different trigger group. Doesn't fold. Different indexing method.

The only thing the Slash has in common with the L2 are some superficial design features, like the carbon fiber handguard, and the air reservoir in the stock (instead of below the barrel). But even those are not unique to the L2.

Swagley said:

I’m trying to find out if Jd’s custom design is still in business? His site has been saying “ Sorry down to complete order and rebuild inventory” for at least 2 months now. Any info is appreciated as I’m trying to set up a new scope and I’m in need of a scope wheel.

Thanks

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I use jb3dpd.com
Jake is a good guy and will customize any of his products.
British so it takes a couple extra days in the mail

Georgii Arapov said:

Thanks for the suggestion. I was trying to find any sold items/ threads to check on that but I couldn’t find any. Not sure what they are selling for buy I will be asking around 2K for all the items. (Compressor, pellets, and other stuff)

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In the classifieds there is a filter button
First field: what category you are interested in
Second field: Sold

That only will tell you that it sold and what was the asking price
It could have sold for less if the seller and buyer negotiated.

Trucker3573 said:

I would just suggest doing a bunch of research beforehand to get a grasp on market value. I cruise the classifieds here and all over online constantly. The number in many people’s mind is much too high for their equipment. They probably don’t do any checking.

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Thanks for the suggestion. I was trying to find any sold items/ threads to check on that but I couldn’t find any. Not sure what they are selling for buy I will be asking around 2K for all the items. (Compressor, pellets, and other stuff)

MongooseV8 said:

The thing I have noticed most is the clarity or crispness of the dot shape. The cheaper dots are very blurry or fuzzy, which is exaggerated by astigmatism. I started using medium quality green dots and they work much better for me. The only downside is the green color doesnt stand out as much in direct sunlight or bright green backgrounds.

Other than that; I find the big-window thin-housing optics to be much easier to get on target compared to the typical small tube housing dots.

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This may or may not work, but aside from switching colors, different reticles and MOA+brightness combos can also help. A reticle change (circle dot or chevron) works for me. But I've also heard that a larger MOA dot lets you keep the brightness lower, thus reduces the starbursting effect while still keeping the dot from getting lost.