Was it leaking from the breech/block area like that before disassembly? If not, then something wasn't reassembled properly. They may not be happy about taking it back if they know you dug into it.

This listing has been renewed

Normkel said:

Question for the moderators: Is there a role for an archive to show the differences between the various compressors?

It might make it easier for those trying to decide on purchase.

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It would have to be consistently updated. Even the cs4 posted here is an old model and not like the current production. I'm sure other compressors will change as well as time goes by.

OldVet said:

Did not know that. They sure seemed better to me , and looked better too.

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It's an on-going issue on many mechanical groups. Many will not accept it until an aircraft tech weighs in to point out that it's illegal to use stainless on aircraft aluminum.

Many scope mounts and rings are alumimum/alloy so a good anti-seize should protect you. I wouldn't use torque values for Grade 5 (US) or higher or metric Property class 4.8.

When I was in the mechanical trades, we hated stainless because they are weaker and softer than steel, and if heated they can turn harder than glass.

If one needs to drill stainless, use lots of lube and turn the bit slowly to avoid spot heating and hardening.

Carbide bits often don't like stainless because it's soft and the bits can dig in and break.

Many vehicle manufacturers like to use stainless as exhaust manifold bolts and studs. Talk to a Cummins Diesel truck tech. When they discovered carbide bits, like Garr, their world changed as the broken studs were incredibly difficult to drill out. Ford too.

Another potential issue for stainless is that the metalurgy is often unspecified so one often doesn't know what one is buying, unless buying a known brand like Papcom Docap, Bowman, etc.

If you are interested, PM and I can send some information that we used to provide to college mechanical trades students.

IcySwan1 said:

Unlikely anyone will find one rifle for all purposes. I shoot indoor 10m in my garage with FWB 300s, FWB 602, FWB 700, and Benjamin 400. All are wicked accurate and great to shoot, but I use the FWB 700 the most because I can shoot more and longer; cocking the others wears me out fairly quickly (I am an old duffer). I have other springers and PCPs for benchrest, field target, and generally plinking. Although I really enjoy the Wolverine, I would have to choose the Red Wolf for all uses other than ISSF indoor work.

Mike

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Yep yep.

Oh sure, I've found the one.

The one for AAFTA pistol? 1720t

The one for indoor shooting during long and cold winter nights? FWB300

The one for kicking butt in AAFTA field target? USFT .177

The one for high power/long range field target? Taipan Veteran .22

The one for shooting cast bullets to use up all the lead I collect from my pellet traps? Air Force Condor SS .25

The one for prairie dog eradication out to 200+ yards? BRK Ghost .20 (slugs)

The compact one for ease of use and clandestine pesting and general all-rounder? Taipan Veteran .20 (pellets)

Yep, one. One for each use.

20PPC said:

Just finished going through it again. I'm leaning toward the poppet value being the issue. It will now air up to 3,000psi and slowly leaks down. Gonna go ahead and order one from Maple. Thanks for the info guys.

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The poppet wouldn't cause a leak through the front of the gun. Its thr 14x2 oring on the piece the tube threads on to.
Part 66 oring

Question for the moderators: Is there a role for an archive to show the differences between the various compressors?

It might make it easier for those trying to decide on purchase.

jem91 said:

I recently bought a used airgun and it arrived with the regulator at the same pressure as the airtube (220bar). I was told to shoot it to see if it would straighten it out (it was very loud when fired) but it didn't fix it as suspected then it went down to ~200bar but still same pressure as the rest of the air reservoir. Is the regulator damaged in any way if this happens or is it something easily fixable?

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Hi jem91. As I said in my previous post (post number 19), the problem is that the O-ring on the set screw nearest to the piston needs to be replaced. Here is a thread that has a picture in the 1st post. In the picture you will see a set screw O-ring that has a red asterisk next to it. THAT is EXACTLY the O-ring that is damaged and is allowing air from your tank to go directly into your plenum. You need to replace that O-ring, but you should replace both of the set screw O-rings while you're at it. I see no reason to replace any other regulator O-rings unless air is leaking (you'd know if it was leaking because your tank pressure would drop significantly overnight or over the course of several days). I see no reason to buy a new regulator -- O-rings just need to be replaced sometimes.


stovepipe

Thanks for clearing up the mystery.

It's not a New Warrior either. The motor, gearbox, and reciprocating mechanism might be serviceable with generic "CS1 clone" parts, correct?

I wonder how much the addition of the liquid cooling will help with duration of pumping and service life?

Unlikely anyone will find one rifle for all purposes. I shoot indoor 10m in my garage with FWB 300s, FWB 602, FWB 700, and Benjamin 400. All are wicked accurate and great to shoot, but I use the FWB 700 the most because I can shoot more and longer; cocking the others wears me out fairly quickly (I am an old duffer). I have other springers and PCPs for benchrest, field target, and generally plinking. Although I really enjoy the Wolverine, I would have to choose the Red Wolf for all uses other than ISSF indoor work.

Mike

For me, the same three that @Arzrover mentioned are tops for shot cycle.
Red Wolf, Veteran, USFT.

A subdued shot cycle makes the whole shooting experience more enjoyable. For me it starts with smooth and minimal-effort while cocking, and a light crisp trigger, but all that culminates in what happens when the trigger breaks. When the gun is just dead, ie no herky jerky, bucking around crap, and when the cross hairs just stay right where they were before it broke.....and I also abhor hearing crap rattling and bouncing around in the hammer and/or hammer/spring area. So, yep Red Wolf, Veteran, and USFT set a high bar.

sounds like it needs the O-rings lubed or replaced, doubt it's the poppet valve, try putting Silicone oil in the filler probe and pump it into the gun, put about 10 drops, if you don't have Silicone oil you can get it on Amazon, at Hobby shop, it's Silicone shock oil for R/C cars, any weight viscosity,
it will lube the internal O-rings and help stop leaks.

Skan Ultra 32

This listing has been renewed

I'm not worried about lead poisoning, I've handled lead all my life and haven't Croaked from it yet, Work is more dangerous to my health that lead, besides it's more likely we'll probably all die from world war 3, a Volcano eruption or an Asteroid than from lead poisoning....

yes,Thank you;I mentioned my accident to get that kind of info plus prove I human

Air Venturi Avenge-X​

Shipped & sold by Pyramyd AIR

1-year limited warranty

60 day money back guarantee

You are withing the time limit stated on the web site, given the time frame you have shared with us. I would ask to have your case escalated to a supervisor withing the call to Pyramyd Air and continue to press your case for a replacement, credit or refund. I feel your pain and hope you are able to work this out.

GreenReaper said:

Thank you for the reply, I will take a close look at it for any imperfections

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You're welcome. Here's Airacuda MAX poppet, at break air blasted out muzzle and breech. Replacement chipped after a few magazines, slow leak from same. Appeared OK but felt chip running fingernail along edge. Poppet separates reservoir air from breech so unable to fill reservoir with air escaping breech, suggests problem area. WM

james722 said:

Well executed head shot! What distance?

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25 yards from inside my Laundry room, I have the door covered with a camo net so they can't see inside when I open the door, lights off inside house.

6gun said:

Only rare in the fact that I've yet to see another rear cocking American classic with this furniture. It had a rotary sleeve bolt with a magnetic probe and shot bbs or pellets in its original form. It was my dad's bought new and it was my first air gun 30 years ago and a second hand gift.

I updated it and rust removed what I could, the barrel was shot out with bbs.

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rdtricks said:

Contact the vendor and make your case for a return and full refund/ credit . Then spend your money on another PCP with a better - to you - lineage. It is a difficult time for the Chinese manufacturers right now: not making excuses for them just stating a fact. You have gotten a bad dice roll as my Avenge-X is 2 years and has only needed a few O-rings replaced due to hardening - something that happens to O-rings over time. Good luck to ya.

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Funny you say that because I literally just spoke with Pyramyd. The first gun I had exchanged (same model, different problems) was outside of 30 days. This gun, wanted to do the same thing...however because it's outside of 30 days they refused to do anything. Believe me, if I thought for a second that they would actually give me my $ back...I would be ordering an FX pronto.

20PPC said:

All I could get out of them was send the gun in. There smith would determine what was wrong with it. Also they won't sell parts. One of their techs last week said it was a three year warranty. I was suspicious of that comment. I thought it was for a year only. I talked to them again this morning. The story changed somewhat. The three year warranty is only good if their smith determines it's a safety issue. The tech I talked to...couldn't tell me what that was...soooo he said "send it in".

I tried cocking the rifle...it doesn't leak through the barrel anymore...now it's leaking right at where the air tube screws into the block on the action. Don't know if that is the regulator or maybe the poppet value?? I've taken both apart, and both look okay (whatever that means...lol!). Back to the drawing board!

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Just finished going through it again. I'm leaning toward the poppet value being the issue. It will now air up to 3,000psi and slowly leaks down. Gonna go ahead and order one from Maple. Thanks for the info guys.

6gun said:

May I suggest an optical "airsoft or paintball" chrono off Amazon. They're 30 dollars or less. I use one when I need to do a quick confirmation shot Into my lawn. I use a fx radar when I have range.

I love your stock!

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Thank you.

The 2260 stock was handpicked by Alliance Hobby; this was last year.