rdpjr6504 said:

Received this from a member here Gongetit. Nice fit on my 500cc carbon bottle.

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Arzrover said:

I don't know if it can "beat" it, but my Red Wolf with Heliboard can do what you're suggesting. Very repeatable and very wide range of power... all with a voltage adjustment . Admittedly , it can be a LITTLE slower than a dial, but still pretty easy, quick, and repeatable. That's the one thing I prefer on it over the DW... no reg to adjust... but still very good velocity control over a very wide range.
Bob

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Berserkeley Mike said:

Maybe put a little heat on the tank neck to soften the lock compound and expand the threads? Say, a heat gun or a soft flame, past the end of the blue flame of a atandard home blowtorch, mabe 20 seconds.

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AlanMcD said:

This is a bit off topic, but since @Ultralight brought it up and it was his thread to start with . . .

Honestly, if you want that feature, you might find the Huben K1 to be your best shot at it. It is purely mechanical, but the power wheel does an amazingly repeatable switch in power, and again - it is very repeatable. My .22 K1 regulator is set at about 110 bar, and I have in "nominally" to shoot 18.1 grain pellets ~910 fps, and I position the power wheel with a sharpie mark at 12:00 when looking at it with the muzzle pointed up (the wheel can be positioned however you want it, and then tighten the screw locks it down to the wheel with the detents in it). From there a few clicks counter clockwise (to about 9:00) will raise it to about 970 fps. If I go counter clockwise around to 9:00 again (so 3/4 of a turn from the "nominal"position) it will shoot at about 490 FPS, and it can go lower than that if wanted. The amazing thing is that the speed is very repeatable at any given wheel setting, regardless of where it was set before then.

I was so amazed by this that I ran a unique test a few years back - I loaded up an alternating stack of three different pellets - JSB 25.4s, 18.1s, and 15.9 Hades that all shoot well in the gun. I shot the Monsters at ~42 FPE, the 19.1s at ~32 FPE and the Hedes at ~22 FPE, alternating between three targets in that order, adjusting the power wheel for each shot, verifying speed over the chrony, with each pellet weight going to its own target. The result? Three very good tight groups of five, admittedly at different POIs, and all shot in an acceptable velocity spread for each pellet weight.

I don't have the scope you refer to, but I am familiar with them and they would work great with this gun. As it is for mine, I only load up 18.1s now but I do vary the power as needed and have learned the hold over adjustments needed for the lower power situations I shoot in.

I'm not taking anything away from the Daystates here on this, but for this one "trick" I think the Huben just possibly can't be beat - the ability to shift power by a full order of magnitude with no "normalizing shots" in between is incredible. OF course one has to put the work in before hand to know what the results will be, but once known they are repeatable.

I also have a Sidewinder but I find the power wheel in it is a lot more vague than the Huben, which has solid repeatable clicks . . .

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AlanMcD said:

This is a bit off topic, but since @Ultralight brought it up and it was his thread to start with . . .

Honestly, if you want that feature, you might find the Huben K1 to be your best shot at it. It is purely mechanical, but the power wheel does an amazingly repeatable switch in power, and again - it is very repeatable. My .22 K1 regulator is set at about 110 bar, and I have in "nominally" to shoot 18.1 grain pellets ~910 fps, and I position the power wheel with a sharpie mark at 12:00 when looking at it with the muzzle pointed up (the wheel can be positioned however you want it, and then tighten the screw locks it down to the wheel with the detents in it). From there a few clicks counter clockwise (to about 9:00) will raise it to about 970 fps. If I go counter clockwise around to 9:00 again (so 3/4 of a turn from the "nominal"position) it will shoot at about 490 FPS, and it can go lower than that if wanted. The amazing thing is that the speed is very repeatable at any given wheel setting, regardless of where it was set before then.

I was so amazed by this that I ran a unique test a few years back - I loaded up an alternating stack of three different pellets - JSB 25.4s, 18.1s, and 15.9 Hades that all shoot well in the gun. I shot the Monsters at ~42 FPE, the 19.1s at ~32 FPE and the Hedes at ~22 FPE, alternating between three targets in that order, adjusting the power wheel for each shot, verifying speed over the chrony, with each pellet weight going to its own target. The result? Three very good tight groups of five, admittedly at different POIs, and all shot in an acceptable velocity spread for each pellet weight.

I don't have the scope you refer to, but I am familiar with them and they would work great with this gun. As it is for mine, I only load up 18.1s now but I do vary the power as needed and have learned the hold over adjustments needed for the lower power situations I shoot in.

I'm not taking anything away from the Daystates here on this, but for this one "trick" I think the Huben just possibly can't be beat - the ability to shift power by a full order of magnitude with no "normalizing shots" in between is incredible. OF course one has to put the work in before hand to know what the results will be, but once known they are repeatable.

I also have a Sidewinder but I find the power wheel in it is a lot more vague than the Huben, which has solid repeatable clicks . . .

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engfred said:

Sorry I did not want to high jack your question to Qball, but i cant help it.

Pay once - Cry once sorry I learned the hard way myself my Bambu Lab is printer number 4 - And already now after one and a half year it is my overall cheapest printer, and by far the fastest, best printing and most reliable. The previous printers needed upgrades to perform better and before you know it you have spent more money on a printer that never comes close to a Bambu Lab.

My Bambu Lab printer allowed me to changed the way I design stuff.
Since i bought this printer I never have used Brim - not even when printing ABS.

Only one printer to consider - Bambu Lab P1S Combu with AMS system.
You will never look back - And remember the AMS system is important ... not only for changing colours but more to be able to print another filament type for the support interface layer. Look here at the cut out for the barrel. The body is printed in Petg. Since Petg and PLA does not bond well together the two top layers of support is printed with PLA with 0.0mm gap. It means that i can easily remove the support - and the supported area will look like this.
The change of filament will be done automatically in the AMS 4 spool holder. And you there will be a little waste of material everytime it changes filaments. But i guess the cost for like this is 3-4 cent for a magazine like below.

View attachment 576570

Software for a beginner - Hmm its a challenge if you are at ground zero in 3d and design experience.
But Autodesk Fusion 360 can be downloaded in a free home user version - This can do everything you need - and it is possible to learn how to make designs from idea to finished model only from watching tutorials on Youtube.
You can always start learning 3d design by yourself before buying a printer. It is fun and you get a good feeling when you can spin your first model on the screen.

Other beginners start by using Tinkercad - but with that you are very limited, and all knowledge you learn will be wasted, if you want to learn Fusion 360 or another serious 3d Cad programme.

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Scotay42 said:

Yes

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JohnTaylor said:

Beautiful rifle! Very classic lines. Is the cheek piece height appropriate for a telescopic sight? Thanks for sharing! John

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Hunter25 said:

I'm shooting 50.5 grain pellets 956fps out of a 500mm panthera with a Ernest Rowe liner. I'm practicing for P.a c. .it's 30 shots,on target,I did shoot a sighter some.

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