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This listing has been renewed

Hateful McNasty said:

I got to think . That kinda money for what real use ? Once in a blue moon to tinker ? Not like your dragging it out everytime you go shoot unless it's leaking and needs airing up every time..lol

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If it was someone’s only rifle. It would be a fantastic choice IMO due to the fact flexibility is so easy, but at a cost. I’ve never had one apart. Not sure. Mine haven’t leaked at all. I find it to be a very unique gun. One spin around the dial. Crow

This listing has been renewed

I use the reticle vertical line to see if it looks plumb. Works for me.

I have found the same thing with the hybrids. The tins of H&N slugs that I’ve tried in .217 seemed to be slightly undersized. They were still a little tight but fit ok. The H&N slugs have been excellent quality too - very clean, consistent, and undamaged. I wish my barrel liked them

I got some AEA Center Punch pellets from The Pellet Shop recently and finally shot a string with them this morning. Shot the 25.3gr, shooting the first three targets before making an adjustment. Man, probably the best string I’ve ever shot.

Ignore the other rows, I still shoot and dabble daily but I didn’t want to continue to flood this thread.

FX Crown MK2 .25
AEA Center Punch 25.3gr
20 yards, 1/2” circles aiming at the 2.5mm center circle.

Finding right diameter slug/speed for ones barrel (s) is, well, nirvana!

Trucker3573 said:

Sweet. I generally stop any YouTube video from over the pond as generally it won’t apply to my uses because of the power restrictions. Not sub 12. Watch them all

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thank you very much, it's great to hear that people from the US are watching

picatinny to arca tripod adapter.

Picatinny trigger guard rail added to pistol. Have similar added to my notos.

Hobbyman2007 said:

Nice work on the DRS . I’ve been watching a lot of your YouTube video’s. one of the best in the business keep it up.

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Thank you

Gear_Junkie said:

Thanks! I've tried NSA's in 17.5gr, 21. and 23 gr. I LOVED the fit and quality of these slugs, but my barrel wasn't as fond of them

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That's a bummer, the only other thing that I could see potentially helping is, if you know, order the sampler pack of slugs from HN. Some slugs dont fit great due to the diameter, but because it has too much contact on the walls.

For example, hybrid slugs are .217 but they almost fit like a .218

steve123 said:

Wouldn't we all! This needs addressing - a long time ago.

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gbmarcht said:

As an Epoch owner, I’m so grateful for this sort of research and modification info. I am looking to better understand the relationship between HP and LP reg settings and how they affect velocity, ES, and SD. Any experts out there?

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The low-pressure (LP) regulator on the Skout EVO airgun controls the air used to operate the rifle’s pneumatic cycling mechanisms—essentially managing the spool valve that releases air to propel the pellet. This is different from the high-pressure (HP) regulator, which governs the air pressure directly behind the projectile. The two regulators work in relation to one another, and fine-tuning both is key to proper cycling and overall performance.





Because the EVO platform is still relatively new, there isn’t an official manual that specifies what each pressure setting does. Part of the reason is the near-infinite variability in tuning. My own testing is still in the early stages, especially since I’ve been experimenting with modifications to the HP regulator and transfer port.

Before the modifications, the LP regulator didn’t seem to make a huge difference, but I did notice that turning it up resulted in a more forceful spool valve cycle and slightly tighter groups. Since then, I’ve made several changes: I enlarged the transfer port seat on my .177, modified the needle valve inside the HP regulator body, and refined the overall airflow path. These adjustments have allowed me to run both regulators at significantly lower pressures—while actually improving results.

Performance Comparison:

• Pre-modification:
  • Pellet: 13.43 grain, .177 caliber
  • Velocity: ~800 fps
  • HP regulator: ~2000–2200 psi
  • LP regulator: ~200 psi
  • Accuracy: Good, but not outstanding
• Post-modification:
  • Pellet: 13.43 grain, .177 caliber
  • Velocity: ~820 fps
  • HP regulator: ~1000 psi
  • LP regulator: ~100 psi
  • Accuracy: Exceptionally tight groups—often same-hole shots

Finally, on the dwell setting: I’ve kept it as low as possible while still allowing the spool valve to open. If the dwell is set too low, the valve won’t open; set it too high, and it won’t close correctly. Striking the right balance is essential.

unfortunately, the dwell setting is not exactly like increasing or decreasing a hammer spring where you’ll see a 2-3-4-5-6 ft./s increase. Maybe just an ever so slight tightening of groups.

Hope this helps more than it adds to any confusion.

The valve kit includes all nesessary o-rings for valve cap and barrel, those are replaced.
I can’t imaging that only the plastic pin housing performs a proper seal against the reciever housing, in my opinion there should be an seal or something between them ?

dan_house said:

"I suspect that those clamp-on levels are ok. And they are surely better than nothing."

So long as you take the time and make the effort to make it as level/square/"calibrated" as you can, yea itll be fine for range and field work

Not talking about micrometer precision here, just trying to keep the rifle as vertical as possible. Think of it as a feedback device...

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i assume your talking about the scope tube mounted levels ? That is easy , just hang a string with a weight as a vertical reference and line the vertical in the scope with that string about 10 or 20 feet away

beerthief said:

Early AM ( 9:30 ) i put on long pants to weed whip . only 80 out so not bad , just finished 11:30 ( 85 now ). I need to find someone with the hobby of weed whacking . planning on shooting IZH 46 and Morini then springers .

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Maybe if you tried it my you might enjoy more…lol

Vana2 said:

I suspect that those clamp-on levels are ok. And they are surely better than nothing.

But I do wonder if the level, its mount, the barrel, the block, the mounts and the cross hairs are all in sync with the picatinny.

...Yeah, worked with engineers too long, I always worry about cumulative tolerances.

I use the scope tube mounted levels that I can zero to a plumb line.

Cheers!

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When I leveled my scope, I used a clamp on barrel level, as well as the picantinny rail level to level the gun along with a level on the scope mounts, before using a level on the scope turret. I trust the picantinny mounted level because of the verification with the other levels.

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Can get a complete specific kit for the gun from foxairpower.com if you want to spend like $50 or aeaairguns.shop sells individually but come from Spain, i just ordered a few different assortments off ebay so im so far lucky to find whatever one I need

"I suspect that those clamp-on levels are ok. And they are surely better than nothing."

So long as you take the time and make the effort to make it as level/square/"calibrated" as you can, yea itll be fine for range and field work

Not talking about micrometer precision here, just trying to keep the rifle as vertical as possible. Think of it as a feedback device...

JaceSpace1369 said:

Your other option is nsa, they make them as small as .215 or .2155. The .2155 and .216 have worked phenomenally in my CZ guns before (cricket 2 .22 choked barrel)

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Thanks! I've tried NSA's in 17.5gr, 21. and 23 gr. I LOVED the fit and quality of these slugs, but my barrel wasn't as fond of them

markhooper said:

what do you need ground on the barrel.. muzzle or breach? I likely can do it in my lathe with a live center.. PM me if you want to.
Mark

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Just the breech end.

If your lathe can skim .000-.002 per side without chattering or making it worse, it could work. I assumed only grinding would work here because of the varied and minimal stock allowance.