Hi All,

My Slash Tactical Long .22 has finally arrived here in the Netherlands. The wait was longer than expected, but worth it.

A few people have raised concerns about delays, indexing, and the lack of open comments at times. It’s important to remember that Taipan is not a massive manufacturer like FX. Everything—from engineering and production to (most likely) marketing—is handled in-house. That inevitably takes more time, and to me that’s understandable.

Another factor is language. English isn’t Taipan’s native tongue (Slovakian), and since they’re doing almost everything themselves, I’d rather see them focus on clear instructional videos and product development than spend energy fielding endless off-topic questions. For what it’s worth, I’ve contacted Taipan by email several times, and their replies were always quick, clear, and to the point—despite the language barrier.

As for distribution: the first batch of Slashes went to the US, and now Europe and the Middle East are starting to see theirs. I expect more YouTube reviews will appear soon, though I’m not a content creator myself.

Indexing & Setup

The early indexing concerns don’t seem relevant anymore. In my view, the Slash was designed as a slug rifle from the beginning, which means it needs to be run at higher velocities. Trying to push it at very low power levels (e.g. 12 fpe) may have caused issues at first, but Taipan addressed this quickly with proper engineering and production adjustments. That takes time, but it shows commitment.


First Impressions on the Range

• Build: Feels very solid and well-balanced

• Noise: Extremely quiet, even without a suppressor

• Efficiency: Good shot count

• Accuracy: Today I shot a 1.5” spinner at 105 m (115 yards) and hit 22 out of 24 shots in mild wind (gusts 15mph). I don’t consider myself an expert marksman, so I was very impressed.

I used JSB KO MKII .216 slugs - 965 fps. They don’t fit in the slug magazine (5.52mm)but work fine in the pellet magazine (5.54mm).


Conclusion
The Slash feels like a purpose-built slug rifle that delivers on performance. The build quality, quiet operation, and accuracy left a strong first impression. Given Taipan’s small-scale, in-house approach, the delays and communication style make sense—and in my experience, their direct support is fast and professional.

If questions, shoot …
Tomorrow, I will tune my Slash further and get more rounds in.
Good night.

Rick64 said:

Do not use lead from batteries. It contains higher amounts of antimony causing the lead to be too hard and it can damage your barrel.

Click to expand...

Pb batteries are using less antimony nowadays.
Antimony is still used on the top lead, however maintenance free batteries use calcium as a hardener in the grids.
Pure lead is too soft to work with, so battery manufacturers use grain hardeners to make the lead manageable.

I think companies missed the boat with gas ram's . I would have thought ( let say HW ) the company would have come out with a choice in a few rifles , like an HW50 in gas or spring . Maybe HW30 gas or spring . no adjustments just the same gun in gas or spring . What about a starter HW30 adjustable ram start your kid @ 4 FPE then 6 FPE then 10 FPE ?

BKL fan boi recommends BKL Levels. Made in the Great State of Texas.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

DutchUSER84 said:

Hello everyone,

I'm seeking some advice regarding an issue I'm having while zeroing my air rifle.

I have an FX Impact M4 Extended in 6.35mm (.25 caliber), fitted with an Element Helix Gen2 6-24x50 FFP riflescope. I'm trying to zero the scope at a distance of 25 meters.

The problem is that my shots are consistently hitting high and to the right of my point of aim. I've managed to correct the windage (horizontal adjustment) successfully, and my shots are now on the same vertical line as the target. However, I can't adjust the elevation (vertical adjustment) enough. The scope's elevation turret has reached its upper limit, and I'm still hitting approximately 8 steps (clicks) too high.

This means that to hit the bullseye, I have to aim 8 clicks below the center of the reticle, which is obviously not ideal.

I've already checked the scope's mounting rings for proper alignment and tightness, and everything seems to be secure.

Is this a known issue with the FX Impact M4, or with the combination of this rifle and scope? Am I missing a fundamental step in the zeroing process? Any tips or insights from people with a similar setup would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Kind regards, Dutch.

Click to expand...

Just a wild guess here....if you mounted the scope directly to the rifle I suspect the barrel is not mounted correctly to the action. If you used something like a cantilever mount is it possible it is mounted backwards?

I have about 85 sizes of orings, all in 25 or 50 piece bags. That is well over 2000 orings.
From oringsandmore.
I am sure the total $ was much less vs buying "kits" that have single pieces for each size.

This listing has been renewed

I have been shooting Impacts for a while now along with a Maverick and had two Pantheras.
If you have time red through threads on the forum by searching “Impact help” or “Impact problem”. What you will find is guns that have been modified, hopped up or hung with every ego ornament available will make up the majority of Impact issues.
Impacts are wonderfully adaptable with an infinite number of alterations available. Unfortunately, a lot of what is sold requires an understanding of how the gun works and without that you will just step off a cliff you will Wish you hadn’t.
Surprisingly, Impacts straight off the shelf with a proper tune are very good shooters and quite reliable. As others have said patience and practice will provide more satisfaction than any modification

CBR400RR said:

30 full power shots.

Click to expand...

Did you adjust anything else besides the valve? Rear pneumatic hammer?
You have an incredibly efficient copy if there is only 150bar on the regulator and as much as 920fps

Valve pin to receiver seal to my understanding is how it works, depending on how bad it’s leaking from there I’d try to shoot it quickly after filling to reseat. I wouldn’t dry fire though as that is known to break the valve pin on these.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

This is one of those threads that when you see the title you're not sure if you want to click on it or not.

In the app, go to profiles and choose Bullets at top. From there, Add Bullet. Enter the weight and name it.

The FX chrony is doing its job but it doesn't tell the app what projectile or weight you are shooting.

dgeesaman said:

Just the breech end.

If your lathe can skim .000-.002 per side without chattering or making it worse, it could work. I assumed only grinding would work here because of the varied and minimal stock allowance.

Click to expand...

well if it is pretty round and straight could just spin at high speed with emery cloth,you'd get a good finish but it will take off any current finish..
you didn't mention if it was just the breach or full length..
generally lathe tooling will leave very tiny, like threading marks, so I pretty much always finish up with emery cloth.. depends on how much needs off but I have 3 different grits and the fine makes a mirror polish
Mark

Bag of rice used as a rest would work better than a tripod tho. The head can slam over the gun at the ball if its loosened for aiming. That pic is all metal but my notos mount is plastic and i dont trust it to not snap the custom plastic mount on the notos if it gets slammed over on the ball.

Also aiming and tightening tripod knobs might be impossible to do at same time. A fluid head tripod might be a better choice since theyre made to pan around vs just stay locked in one position, but fluid tripods are expensive.

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed

This listing has been renewed