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Moderator clipping question

steve-l,

You assume too much. I started making mods for my own airguns, based on the idea that the smaller the baffle bore clearance, the better. Since then I have done hundreds of custom mod designs for people, included members of this forum. Some of those clipped, until I opened up the baffle bores to tolerate more misalignment.

As for the effect of projectile to baffle bore clearance on sound reduction, I had volunteers on the AGN and GTA forums participate in a study, so that I was not the one generating the test data, and could not be accused of injecting bias.

The study consisted of three identical 3D printed moderators intended for .22 caliber The only variable was the as printed baffle bore diameters. Specifically three moderator variants with 6.5 mm ; 7.5 mm and 8.5 mm baffle bores, respectively. In other words 0.5 mm radial baffle bore to projectile clearance, 1 mm radial clearance, and 1.5 mm radial clearance. The loss in performance for nominal 30 FPE .22 PCP rifles, going from mods with 0.5 mm radial clearance to 1.5 mm radial clearance averaged at 2 dB. A smaller loss in performance than I predicted.

While there are people that argue the sound energy difference at 2 dB is significant, the fact is that not everyone is certain they can hear a difference until it reaches 3 dB. So, in my opinion arguing about 1 dB is pointless. More important is if the moderated airgun report sounds like a firearm at a distance, or something innocuous.

Your approach may be the best way (for you), but how many people will accept needing to verify and adjust their moderator alignment, every time after removing and reinstalling it? They are generally installing commercial mods and want them to work well enough, right out of the box. Don't take my word for it. Interested parties on this forum can speak for themselves.

HW/Weihrauch  Who shoots 22 Weihrauchs at 50 yards or more?

Yes that is one a one inch bullseye.
A good comparison is to look at this group I shot the same day with the 97 .20 cal at 75-yard.

View attachment 558953
IMG_5632.png


That’s pretty identical to what my .22 shoots JSB heavies into at 22yd.

Moderator clipping question

steve-l,

Your rod method is great for verifying static alignment. When you actually shoot your airgun, additional clearance may be required to tolerate the fact that the barrel and moderator no longer form a straight line, due to barrel flex; or harmonics. if you prefer. Especially considering the typical skinny PCP barrel. The pellet will be travelling parallel to the section of barrel at the muzzle as it leaves, starting with the bore location at the pellet's release. Meanwhile the moderator may be travelling up, down or sideways, as the pellet is travelling down successive baffle bores. How much is such dynamic misalignment? More than zero.

Unless your PCP has a very stiff barrel, or is shooting at low power, perfect static alignment of the moderator bore to the barrel bore does not guarantee that every pellet will still have sufficient dynamic clearance. On top of that, the occasional pellet can wobble or yaw due to variation or imperfections in manufacture.

As you have impressed on us many times, the mods you make have perfect alignment with your airgun barrels. Such perfect alignment often does not exist when commercial airgun barrel, shrouds and moderators are combined. So, your range rod would be useful in condemning a poor combination of parts, but what is the solution in such a case? To measure and correct each aspect of each part until they have near perfect alignment. Not everyone has the tools or the skills to fix commercial airgun parts; so they instead use moderators with larger bores to provide more margin against clipping.

Your insistence that moderators have tight baffle bores because anything less makes them less effective, is like telling all vehicle owners to take their vehicles to a calibrated engine dynamometer shop, and to pay to have their engines "blue-printed", should they fall short of the best power and torque such engines are known to produce. This despite the fact that the vehicle owner had been perfectly happy with the on-road performance of the vehicle, as measured by their butts. In like manner, the majority of airgunners are happy with the sound reduction of their factory made moderators, despite the fact that it may be possible to improve that by 2 dB by fixing the "sloppy manufacturing" of commercial airguns parts and accessories.

Your model is like tuning drag racing car to produce the very shortest quarter miles time, to brag about it, just before the engine blows up and has to be rebuilt. Many people have simpler needs when it comes to the mods they attach to their airguns. They trust their ears; rather than buying and using expensive calibrated dB meters, in a controlled and approved lab setting, just so they can convince themselves or others that the mod they are using is the best, to the nearest dB. Often in engineering and commerce, the pursuit of perfection is the enemy of good. Settling for good enough or better than expected is not a mortal sin. Despite falling short of the very best possible with a given set of parts. All of whom have been remade to perfection.
Thank you for your opinion. It will likely help owners of commercial moderators be more comfortable with their purchase. If I'm correct here, you have never made a moderator. I have and I have been doing this for many years. My opinion, quite a bit different than yours, is based on my life long experience making moderators and mounting them. Even though a moderator does not clip on one gun does not mean it will not clip on another.Furthermore, every time a moderator is removed and reinstalled, its alignment to the barrel should be checked. The reason is that these adaptors when installed do not employ a reference register to assure correct alignment. The attachment mechanism is threads alone. When perfect alignment must occur, a reference surface must be employed like a square flat surface on the barrel not the shroud or perhaps a taper, which is the standard method in the machine tool industry to assure alignment. All threads must employ a running clearance to prevent seizure. That clearance is the reason why a reference surface is required.. You then state the difference in sound attenuation is only a couple of DB and you do that with no experience to make that comparison. In fact it does make a difference. The optimum clearance is about .020" or .5 mm Anything larger hurts sound attenuation. You also state that nothing can be done to correct an issue. Well that's not correct either. That thread clearance mentioned above provides the path to correct misalignment. It is a band-aid, but it works. Simply use a washer between the the moderator and the gun and with a file thin the washer a few thousands on one side correcting the observed skew.. However, you cannot do that without a test rod that has the diameter of the barrel lands at the muzzle for at least 2 inches. Then skew can usually be observed and corrected.

Brocock/BRK  Brocock XR Sniper in 22cal... tuning question

I was thinking of tuning my Brocock XR Sniper in 22 to shoot 24gr at 850-890 fps but to do so would have to increase the regulator pressure up and hammer spring or should I leave as is. It's shooting 18.1gr ok but not great. I know brocock says to leave everything as is from the factory but just wondering how many guys tuned there guns to shoot 24gr. Also does the bottle have to degassed or does this have the value in the bottle where you can just unscrew the bottle from the gun????
Thanks
im shooting jsb 18.13 on reg to 160, at 908fps and have very good grouping

Other  Made in japan indian "islander" in .20?!?

I have another one that is a little different, but very similar. I'll try and dig them out in the next day or two....this is whay I know about them

"When the war ended, the industrial capacity of both Germany and Japan was devastated. Haenel ended up behind the Iron Curtain and all of Dianawerks equipment and trademark was award to a British company as war reparations, and would not resume Airgun manufacturing until September 1950. It appears other German factories also weren't making air rifles until 1950. This left a void that Japan happily filled. During the occupation, Japan began producing copies of prewar German air guns again. This time around, they were not built under license, and therefore did not use the German tradename. The JGA style Spring barrel pistol would now be marketed under a different name (LOC). Postwar Air Rifles manufactured utilizing the basic prewar German designs were now given all kinds of kooky names. These rifles were to be exported to help rebuild Japans economy. So many of these postwar occupation era rifles ended up in the United States. Examples of tradenames used on these postwar rifles include COMET, INDIAN, CROWN, CHAMPION, FUJI SPECIAL, OLYMPIA, PENGUIN, DUCK, RABBIT, CONDOR, KING DIANA, ASAHI, SAKABA and my favorite ATOM ROCKET!"
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Other  Made in japan indian "islander" in .20?!?

@zrman27500 Never heard of it. I googled it and didn’t come up with much. I figured you’d left something out.
I'm a terrible photographer, and my phone camera is pretty blurry....I could get a few pics, but I think it's kind of a you know about them or not situation. They are a pretty decently made rifle, not very powerful, and the trigger is pretty stiff. But they were meant to be cheap rifles (I'm assuming it's from the mid to late 50's) but could be 60's or 70's at the latest. The thing that is special about this rifle is it being in .20.....I have never seen nor heard of any of the old break barrel Japanese rifles coming in anything other than .177...not even .22
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Other  Made in japan indian "islander" in .20?!?

I have another Indian in .177 that is not an "islander" but is similar. I am pretty sure they were made by SAR (shinbishi) in japan, post war...probably during Japan's occupation. I have seen them under a few different brand names. All have been in .177 though, I have never seen nor heard of a .20 caliber model before, and the fact that I don't think anyone here has seen one, let's me know that it is very uncommon.

Hatsan  Air fill probe mod?

They fall out becasue the probe orings get wrecked going in...iv had to keep replacing them because they get peeled when goin into the port...they are factory orings for my Hatsan NeutronStar..
A little silicone lube on them helps keep them "poofed up" plus the probe will slide in/out easier without trashing the o rings.

Edgun LESHIY 2 (Accuracy Issues)?

I Bought 4 more LCS SK19s and 2 more Huben K1s after the first 2 I bought were doing half inch at 50 yards. One of my LCS SK19s consistent sub one inch at 100 yards but this is ONLY ONE out of FIVE SK19s so I believe few Leshiys may be accurate.
I get OUTSTANDING results with my .25 LCS SK-19 too...love my rifle. Best groups I have EVER had with any of my rifles @ 100yrds, using JSB Heavies Mkii on a beautiful day with virtually no wind....haven't been able to re-create these but damn it I'm trying! Lol.
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N/A  Please, some guidance for very accurate/target air rifle + associated hardware. Finances are a concern.

thank you. i'm grateful for the information.

I think i'm all set for now as Mr. Hammer has been very kind to help me on this journey.

I know i'll have more questions when i start using the air rifle. I'll have a lot to learn.

My dear friend is making me a safe target platform.

I've got to order some pellets and learn how to care for the air rifle etc.

Really looking forward to it.

It's has been so hard for me to get to the range, this will allow me to practice what i miss so very much.
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