Zeroing a scope

As a beginner, I have made some observations while trying to zero my sidewinder scope on my Diana RWS 54. It seems after turning the horizontal or vertical dials, it takes about 3 to 5 shots before it settles in to its home spot. Is this normal? I also wonder if zooming in and out requires a recalibration of the dials?? Shouldn’t a scope hold its zero when zooming in or out?



John
 
Second Focal Plane scopes change the value distances of the reticle at different power levels. Try it at just 10x or the like (doesnt have to be max power.) Dont touch that part the rest of the process. Adjust only the elevation first until shots are equal to the level of the X of your target, the 10, the center. Then make left or right windage adjustments until you are hitting the mark.

Unless your scope is tits-up and wasn't springer rated this should work provided your hold of the stock is suitable for springers. You can't squeeze the life out of them, need to hold them correctly for the reverse recoil.
 
Second Focal Plane scopes change the value distances of the reticle at different power levels. Try it at just 10x or the like (doesnt have to be max power.) Dont touch that part the rest of the process. Adjust only the elevation first until shots are equal to the level of the X of your target, the 10, the center. Then make left or right windage adjustments until you are hitting the mark.

Unless your scope is tits-up and wasn't springer rated this should work provided your hold of the stock is suitable for springers. You can't squeeze the life out of them, need to hold them correctly for the reverse recoil.

This is a new shooter and while you are correct I think we have to assume he is sighting in using the center aim point of the reticle which does not move when changing power. Let’s not confuse the issue. If the scope has to “ settle in” and we assume it’s not “him” then clearly the scope is damaged . Most likely a loose reticle which is classic springerside.


 
The erector system in the scope uses springs, the method that creates the least "settling" is to adjust the scope so that you are compressing the spring rather than the reverse.

i.e. wind past your desired point then wind back in, does that make sense? also in fairness HAWKE is fairly low down the scale in terms of quality.

If you used the same principle on an NXS, March or S&B you would find the effect would be much less pronounced due to the quality of the components.
 
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For my centerfire / rimfire and a few air rifles, I always went with Nikon scopes.. 
Now, after using Discovery FFP scopes, I'm exclusively running those now.. 
Added up over the years [I'll throw other random ones in too] Probably 30-50 models.. 
I'm pretty sure that All of them had to 'settle' a bit before becoming locked on.

I'd call that a pretty 'common' thing to experience. Nothing to get worried / worked up over.

🙂👍 

Sam -