Yong Heng,?? old model or new one..?

So,,, which one is better, the simple one without extra high pressure bypasses,? or the one with all the extra low to high stage external plumbing..?

Are either one an actual Yong Heng..? Does it even matter with many Chinese companies sharing most everything except names..? The one with all the extra plumbing has a tag on it that says 2017, is it the 'old' design with weaker internals..? they claim it puts out 50L per min. Where the simple one puts out 40L per min....

Both claim 4500psi or 30 MPA max, but 30mpa = 4350psi iirr..? 

Also both claim 1800watts, that = 16.5 amps, but don't offer LRA or max amperage ratings on their name plates. Here in the USA iirr all electrical motors are required to label LOCK ROTOR AMPERAGE(LRA) or max amperage draw at full load on name plate/sticker. So if they do draw 16.5amps on a older homes 110v 15amp wall plug service, at full load of 4500psi, that will blow a fuse/breaker...? Unless at full load they do not draw 1800watts/16.5amps @110v. If your city has 120volts power instead of 110 then your amps go down to 15. IMO still high for a wall 15a outlet. Lucky most newer homes do have 20 amp outlet circuits, some with gfi...

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to make a decision...



1577542772_12141344825e076474e53e03.55063097_yong heng.jpg

 
The unit on the left with the "extra plumbing" has a condensate collector for the low pressure piston. It does help keep an appreciable amount of moisture from going to the high pressure piston. I believe the piston upgrades were at the end/beginning 2018/2019 so the 2017 unit has the old style pistons. I have the manual shut off unit with the low and high pressure moisture purge (extra plumbing). Mine has no issues pumping to 4500 psi. I did install a dedicated 20 amp circuit for it.
 
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You speak of a tag marked 2017 I never noticed a date on mine and I have been using it for nearly 2 years , I have had to change one burst disk and that’s all. But I never fill to 4500psi I set mine to shut off at 4200psi and change oil more than recommend, Anyway where is this tag with the date that was mentioned

This 'made in china' sticker/tag/name plate is on the side of the YH unit on the left one in my above pic,,,

1577547230_16621613805e0775de54f9d7.55607724_81qlXq3jLgL._SL1500_.jpg

 
The unit on the left with the "extra plumbing" has a condensate collector for the low pressure piston. It does help keep an appreciable amount of moisture from going to the high pressure piston. I believe the piston upgrades were at the end/beginning 2018/2019 so the 2017 unit has the old style pistons. I have the manual shut off unit with the low and high pressure moisture purge (extra plumbing). Mine has no issues pumping to 4500 psi. I did install a dedicated 20 amp circuit for it.


Thanks for explaining that... Do you know if the inlet filter "breather nozzle" where the compressor draws in air,, is it threaded..?
 
As mentioned the simple unit does not have the moisture separator on it which is a very important part. I chose the set pressure unit because it not only had the water/oil separator but also would turn itself off if I got distracted thus saving me from having to replace the burst disc regularly. Mine is near two years old and I have replaced the disc a couple of times, an o-ring on the filter and a dowty seal on the top fitting on the head. I overheated this unit several times to 100 deg C and it is still running. I only run mine to 4200psi and release the pressure before I turn it off now. Since I started releasing the pressure before I turn the unit off I have not blown another burst disc.

I am running the unit on a 15A breaker and if anything else is turned on on that circuit when the compressor is running it blows. A 20A circuit would werq better.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YONG-HENG-30MPa-Air-Compressor-Pump-PCP-Electric-4500PSI-High-Pressure-Auto-Shut/283270753885?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D9509d222ae304c4ea63fecab8bfbca58%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D362788492446%26itm%3D283270753885%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

The pictures show two different units but the description says it is the set pressure model.


 
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If the unit is manufactured in 2017 then I am pretty sure that it has got the weaker version of first and second stage pistons. Related info for your reference : 

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/yong-heng-piston-cracking-no-more-hopefully/

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/yong-heng-second-stage-piston-breaking-not-any-more/

Suggest to ask the seller to confirm that the version they are supplying has got the new pistons installed. They probably don't know, ask them to consult the factory. 
 
ACS, the picture of the info plate on the unit could be from an old/long running ad. Might be possible that the stock they have is newer.

Yup, was thinking the same thing...



Not sure if its trure, but was told to get the YH with every option they have available. Seems options were added continuously thru its production run. The units with all the options are the latest out with all the newest updates/tweaks. But he continued to say that doesn't mean a newer production bare bones unit doesn't have the internal piston updates and or other later unit updates, He continued to say the only way to be sure if you're not talking with one of the YH/Clone factories is to get the one with all the options... Could be a sales ploy to sell the most expensive unit,,, idk.

So, if that is true, the units with 1) updated/added water separator , 2) adjustable pressure off, 3) mounted next to power switch is a light and buzzer/siren that alerts when set pressure is reached. 4) water pump 110v plug on unit that comes on with compressor switch

Any other latest and greatest YH options/updates/tweaks available..?

I can only find the fully optioned out YH at aliexpress with $126 shipping, so thats not an option.

I'm going to cascade this YH compressor with my nitrogen tank when tank pressure is below 4200psi allowing me to 'vacuum' nitro tank empty instead of needing a refill at 4000psi. Might go for the bare bones $185 unit and hope I get the updated piston. I actually don't even need the water separator, as being fed with dry nitrogen makes it useless. I will need a high quality inline filter to catch oil mist and any debris from the compressor.

Am I correct in thinking all the lights, extra plumbing, buzzers, auto stop relays/switches, just are more things to go wrong or leak..? Especially if they're not needed in my application..?

Worst case scenario if i get the old piston/internals, and it breaks, I'll have to rebuild it with updated parts, parts seem ridiculously cheap, and I'm pretty handy with those type rebuilds...



1577993073_19479044525e0e4371ef98c0.82137005_latest and greatest YH.jpg

 
I would consider using a Shoebox compressor (booster) if you are going to feed it with nitrogen. The fill times will be quite a bit longer but the Shoebox is damn near bombproof and very easy to maintain. The Yong Heng is not designed to be fed pressurized air but the Shoebox is. Regulating the output from a nitrogen tank down to an acceptable psi for the YH might be problematic.
 
I would consider using a Shoebox compressor (booster) if you are going to feed it with nitrogen. The fill times will be quite a bit longer but the Shoebox is damn near bombproof and very easy to maintain. The Yong Heng is not designed to be fed pressurized air but the Shoebox is. Regulating the output from a nitrogen tank down to an acceptable psi for the YH might be problematic.

Not sure if anyone here would catch that problem,, you did.

But not a problem for me at all. Very familiar with designing and working with compressors and complicated process cooling cascade systems, and hpa systems. For this system the key is not to feed it with high pressure nitrogen, just as you said.

We know it can take atm14.7 so a couple/few psi gauge pressure is a good starting point. Will be using a manifold gauge set with low pressure nitro regulator on my 6000psi tank, and further throttle the intake psi with the gauge manifold to maintain 1-2psi.. Will adjust feed to YH at a few psi max or around 15-16psi absolute pressure, with amp probe on YH to make sure it doesn't over amp. done this many times with all different types of gases/refrigerants...

iirr, might have a very low pressure regulator that will do 1-2psi without using/monitoring a gauge manifold manually making adjusting that could be needed often during the fill as tank pressures decrease/increase. Just got to jog the old memory and remember where I put that low press reg many years ago, if its even still around...How fussy maintaining 1-2psi will be using a gauge manifold set all depends on how the YH handles V E as the tanks fill/empty and psi gets high.

If you're a gambling man, and want to try and shorten fill times (and maybe increase oil blowby, heat and amps👎) key is to raise the intake pressure slowly watching amp draw/heat/sound. All at my own risk of YH destruction, with rebuild parts in stock,lol. Never know, YH might be a good candidate for a pressure feed and fast fill times. Some compressors actually like a low pressure feed as it lessens the load by compressor not having to draw/suck in gas. 

Or just keep it at 1-2 psi max and enjoy being able to empty my 6000psi nitro tank completely. While also enjoying clean, dry, temp stable, inert gas, industrial nitrogen. About time I start doing this. Although we probably only go thru a couple tanks a year at my shop with multiple people using it for leak detection and nitrogen purge brazing, and with me using it at least once a month for pcp tank filling. A large heavy 6000psi nitro tank last a long time the way I've been using it. Now it will really last a long long time being able to suck it dry and still get a good pcp tank fill...

Any threads on here where this was already done..?

Time will tell how this works out for me...

jmo


 
I know at least one AGN member has done it with the Shoebox - worked out well for him. I have not read of anyone hooking up a YH in that manner. Nitrogen (6000psi) is not easily obtainable in my area and the slow fill time of the Shoebox kept me from going that route. I can get the lower psi nitrogen tanks but the cost of the tank, rental and regulator assembly is prohibitively expensive. I am interested in what results you get with nitro/YH setup. I think the key will be in how stable you can keep the output (1-3psi +/-?). During testing you could use a balloon on a tee fitting as a simple safety pop off valve and low pressure diaphragm.
 
Mine doesn't have any kind of tag on it at all 

Does that make mine a fake ? An old one ? A new one ? It seems to work just fine it only takes about 4 min to get my 90 ci ninja from 2000 to 4500 Pai

Thanks 



Dan 

As long as it works I wouldn't worry to much about year or if its orig. but I would recommend a gold filter.. they even have short ones just to help keep the air clean and dry.


 
Hey guys, I have Yong Heng pump (simple version) just 2 days:) I'm very impressed how fast does fill my cricket standard. I think it took 1min and 15sec from 110-250bar. But I have one question. If I would buy these parts:

1584641275_21188118465e73b4fb965ce4.87613517.jpg


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32850995186.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.78213c00VGppin&mp=1 from 

Does became from my pump HARDCOVER version? 

1584640975_11745231225e73b3cf667c82.85250489.jpg


My pump is here:

1584641049_11350716585e73b41980dbe1.16183400.jpg


and label show date 2019/12 relatively new... So probably with new piston?

1584641138_6164986995e73b47225ba06.59738933.jpg


What are benefits of this additional parts?

The reason I bought SIMPLE version instead HARDCOVER is I found very good price $215 shipped from Poland store without taxes and duties. They were not any possibilities all was gone - sold out :(



Many thanks for replay :)