Yong Heng oil changes

Thanks, I will get some next time I am in a city with a home depot.. Rodeo, I can't tell you what info I need until I see it, but a few items would have been; the recommended oil change frequency, the latest type oil they recommended, gauge temperature limits, amperage requirements, water pump flow minimum (gallons per hour). also would like a factory exploded view diagram and parts list with a convenient and reliable dealer parts source (address or email). I bought my pump off Alibaba express, I think, and they don't want to know anything about it.

Cheers.

OK, Great. PM with email address is on the way(I can't get text on my phone)

One thing I'm doing is placing a small rare earth magnet on the drain plug bolt. It's on the outside but it magnetizes to bolt to catch any iron that wears off. And when you remove the bolt leave magnet on until it's out and then pull it off and any particles will wash right off with some solvent.

I haven't changed my oil since I put it on there. I put some semi synthetic in and ran it for 10 runs then dumped it and changed over to full. The only place I'm sure will produce magnetic particles is the first stage cylinder which is being splash lubed by the crankcase oil. The rings and cylinder are iron and or steel and they do wear.

the crankshaft is also steel or cast iron and spins, via a steel race on ball bearings I believe.

del...

I'll second the recommendation for Husky Oil from Home Desperate. Works great, full synthetic (make sure you get the right stuff), first change lasted a couple ours before turning dark. Still working on the second change. Lasted much longer this time. I change when it gets dark enough I really notice.

Official Yong Heng manual says 50 hours on first change, 100 hours thereafter. Might be a bit optimistic, but these are tough little machines.

Official Yong Heng manual says 50 hours on first change, 100 hours thereafter. Might be a bit optimistic, but these are tough little machines.

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Mine failed after I started filling my newly bought 6.8L Acecare tank. I was only filling it to about 3800 psi not 4500. Failed after about the 3rd fill.

I thought they were tough too until mine failed with just 11 hrs of run time.

A clip that holds the rings on the high pressure side broke in half. This caused very low output pressure to the fill house.

So I ordered the whole head assembly from Aliexpress. Probably take about 12-15 days to get here.

I'll rebuild the old head assembly and will have it for a spare now.

I'm also using RP oil but will probably change over to Husky. It will be interesting to see how much wear it's gone through when I take it apart.

A clip that holds the rings on the high pressure side broke in half.

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Any photo of this "clip" ? Each of the three rings on the 2nd stage cylinder consists of a brown plastic ring ( probably Delrin or Teflon ) surronding a green O ring ( looks like FMK type ). There is no "clip" as far as I can see. 

yes, I was wondering about the same thing

A clip that holds the rings on the high pressure side broke in half.

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Any photo of this "clip" ? Each of the three rings on the 2nd stage cylinder consists of a brown plastic ring ( probably Delrin or Teflon ) surronding a green O ring ( looks like FMK type ). There is no "clip" as far as I can see. 

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I'll have to see if I still have the split washer/clip. It was mounted at the top where the three black seals you see in the picture.

I assembled the head etc back together so that way with the part(s) come in I'll know where everything goes. Hope I won't have any lose ends to worry about.

Thanks for asking.

Hopefully you got your tank up to a decent pressure before the YH broke.

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It took a dumpt right at about 32-3300 psi. That would have worked ok for a couple fills that's about all.

I've been going through that air like nothing because my Liberty has been a PIA trying to locate an overnite leak. Also deal with another issue that's

just too long to go into detail at this late hour.

Hope all is well.

That picture looks like the assembly is complete....nothing missing....I don't think there is anything else involved...no clip or any place to put one. maybe a piece of the reed valve broke off and was floating around in the cylinder. It is a thin flat piece of steel that is somewhat flexible. it does not attach to the piston that is shown in your picture.

Yes, attached to the inside of the 2nd stage cylinder head is a reed valve which does look like a clip or washer. If this valve is broken, the compressor will not be able to fill : 

This is one half of the what I found.

My bad for calling it a clip but it is more in line with being a washer which looks like it's made of brass.

I was right in middle of cussing my Liberty for having a stubborn slow leak.

So when the YH compress crapped out I crapped out

It's been downhill since with finding pieces of an oring in the air tube that was from asking others didn't belong there among

other nagging issue. Welcome to the world of the Love - Hate affair with PCP's I said to myself to try to compose myself

Hope to more indept info when the replacement part gets in.

Hydraulic oil is meant to handle much higher temps than compressor oil.Also has very good lubricating properties.Retired from Gulf Power Co.and licensed a&p mechanic. Bucket truck mechanic, and everything ran on hydraulics. By the way have you ever touched the second stage head while its pumping,a little warm at best.The lines will take your skin off as i have the marks on me to prove it but that because of the compression of the air,not from the pump itself. The water keeps the head cool like it should