Hey AGN. I am using Royal Purple in my new Yong Heng. I did the first oil change at one hour. I am wondering what the recommended oil change interval is when using the R.P. synthetic oil?
Yong Heng oil changes
- Thread starter Rodeo
- Start date
I just look at the oil color - once it turns blackish brown, it is about time to change the oil.
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I have had the same question when I got my Yong Heng. I am not using the Royal Purple but just ordinary compressor oil. I used to change oil the once the color changed to greyish but after about 3 hours of run time and 3 oil changes, the oil turns grey just as quickly as it was when the compressor was new. Now I have decided to wait until the oil becomes darker and see what will happen. Dumping oil to the environment makes me feel bad. The worst thing that can happen is wearing out of piston rings or the connecting rods.which can all be replaced very easily at extremely low cost so the risk is not high.
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I change mine around every 2 hours.
Personally I "FEEL" that with the moisture that is made from the process I feel that changing a little more often should work. Mine is going on two years and still no issues.
Personally I "FEEL" that with the moisture that is made from the process I feel that changing a little more often should work. Mine is going on two years and still no issues.
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I was thinking the Royal Purple should be good for at least 2 hours after the initial break in period. Manual states oil changes at 50 hrs. I knew that wasn't right.
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Most synthetic compressor oils have a recommended change interval of 3500 hours and mineral-based oils 2000 hours. I'm not suggesting that your pump will last that long but don't get too concerned about how long your oil is good for. 50 hours will be perfectly safe unless some sort of contamination occurs. T3PRanch is correct, you can't do any harm by changing often but it can be a waste of time. The parts that rely on the crankcase oil for lubrication, will outlast the electrics and valves by a huge margin, no matter what type of oil and how often you change it.
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I agree.....contamination is the key word here.
I am a big fanboi of this little compressor.....2 years and still thumping along. But lets face facts....this aint the best thing in the world. Personally I FEEL....not think but FEEL as I have nothing to back this up.....but feel that this compressor lets moisture in the oil a bit more than more spendy options. Really we are not talking about filling a Jag with 12 quarts each time here.....an oil change on this thing is cheap. Plus we know this uses a crank bushing no filter....not going to bust the bank changing the oil.
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I have been using a 100% syn oil with the exact rating the manual calls for. It was bottled under the brand name Huskee as the high end alternative for use in their compressors. My YH now has about 100 fills of a rifle plus filter arrangement, no SCBA tanks, to 200 bar and the oil is still as clear as water like it was the day it went in. I catch a little dark brown oil in my first moisture trap and the low pressure bleed out and that's all I see of darkened oil.
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The only reason to change compressor oil is water contamination. If you have metal particulate contamination, don't change the oil, buy a new compressor..
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Cloudy / milky looking oil is the first. If there's enough water foam. But water would have a difficult time migrating from the upper second stage down to the crankcase.
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Don't know how water would get in to the crank case, other than through the breather vent during atmospheric pressure cycles, like how water gets into hydraulic brake systems on cars. If you live in states with high humidity, this could be substantial. However though water does have an afinity to brake fluid, it does not with oil, so it would have to condense on the crank case walls when cold then mix with the oil during pump operation. I suppose it could happen in some areas....not here in the desert though.
Although I have been using the purple oil, I do not like to, because you can't tell when it gets dirty by looking at it. I also don't like using the hydraulic oil recommended by Yong Heng; it doesn't have the film strength to protect the connecting rod bearing surface....there is no bushing or bearing insert on the big end; it runs on the bare cast aluminum rod surface alone. The best solution would be a clear colored lubricant that is designed for high pressure compressors.
Lastly, I keep reading here about what the manual says? What manual.....Has Yong Heng started including operating instructions or maintenance manuals in their later models.? If so, I would like to see one..
Although I have been using the purple oil, I do not like to, because you can't tell when it gets dirty by looking at it. I also don't like using the hydraulic oil recommended by Yong Heng; it doesn't have the film strength to protect the connecting rod bearing surface....there is no bushing or bearing insert on the big end; it runs on the bare cast aluminum rod surface alone. The best solution would be a clear colored lubricant that is designed for high pressure compressors.
Lastly, I keep reading here about what the manual says? What manual.....Has Yong Heng started including operating instructions or maintenance manuals in their later models.? If so, I would like to see one..
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Im using mannol ISO 100 Compressor Oil for a few months now
i opened the head 2 times and it was really clear without any signs of burned oil or residues!
i would never use hydraulic fluid - why should i ? is it designed to get that hot ? or mixed with air under HIGH pressure ?!
i cant touch the pipes on my compressor - so how hot does it get inside the second stage ?!
i opened the head 2 times and it was really clear without any signs of burned oil or residues!
i would never use hydraulic fluid - why should i ? is it designed to get that hot ? or mixed with air under HIGH pressure ?!
i cant touch the pipes on my compressor - so how hot does it get inside the second stage ?!
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Steve, mine came with a manual. It is pretty basic and not terribly informative. I posted the original question of this thread because the manual states 50 hours between oil changes. That seemed excessive to me due to the conditions under which these units operate. I agree that a clear lubricant would be easier for a visual inspection. Unfortunately, there is not one specific source of information on these Yong Hengs (other than a hit-or-miss manual). We have to sift through the trials and errors of others and decide for ourselves what are the best practices for us to follow for the longevity of our units. If there is any information that you would like me to find reference to in the manual I will gladly look it up and send it to you.
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My manual which I don't have handy had some conflicting info on lubricants with hydraulic oil being mentioned.
Full synthetic ISO100 is designed for the harshest conditions found in HP compressors of piston or vane design. So far I'm happy that it's keeping the YH pumping and staying clean in the process so far, and plan on using it in my shop compressor too next change.
Full synthetic ISO100 is designed for the harshest conditions found in HP compressors of piston or vane design. So far I'm happy that it's keeping the YH pumping and staying clean in the process so far, and plan on using it in my shop compressor too next change.
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Hey Rodeo, The oil I'm using came from Home Depot if you live in the US. They sell it by their compressors which are brand name Huskee, or online too. The oil is brand named the same / Huskee Full Synthetic ISO 100 and comes in quart bottles for like 10 bucks. It's clear as water, no dye.
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