I think oil getting up to the secondary piston caused the piston failure by detonation. I believe adding a vacuum pump to the crankcase will solve that problem. Better cooling at the top of the cylinder head should help also.
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Yong Heng Failed Today
- Thread starter heavy-impact
- Start date
Why not use breathing air compressor oil, it has a very high flash point and won’t diesel even with some blow-by? I could smell the change in the royal purple at my first oil change, so I switched to stupid expensive oil….so far, so good……
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Problem is that a proper diving compressor is at least 3 stage and most often 4 stage, ie. no more than 7:1 or 4½:1 compression rate.
A 2 stage YH going 300bar+ will at the very least be 18:1.
Thats why a proper compressor wont diesel and a YH will, given any oil that is even slightly flamable.
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When using premium hpa compressor oil, some users are getting 100+ hours with just a few oil changes, and no failures reported. These are the oils used in 3 of those 100+ hours examples. I found the reports in the GTA forum:
Nuvair 455, Chemlube 751 and Mobil Rarus 827.
I have no reason to think that any other high quality oil with similar characteristics, including high flash point, will not yield about the same results, given no other factors involved. I am in the tropics and bought Seco Lube 800, but my compressor is brand new. Will report in a year or two, hopefully.
Nuvair 455, Chemlube 751 and Mobil Rarus 827.
I have no reason to think that any other high quality oil with similar characteristics, including high flash point, will not yield about the same results, given no other factors involved. I am in the tropics and bought Seco Lube 800, but my compressor is brand new. Will report in a year or two, hopefully.
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I bit the bullet and got the Chemlube 751. I have only had the compressor since March. I changed over at my first service, the Royal Purple smelled mighty funky when I changed it out. Someone was saying their wife was complaining of the smell while running the compressor. Others have complained of stinky air as well. I’ve not experienced that…..just the weird smell (smelled like gunpowder) from RP.
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I've been reading up on compressor oils for the last couple of hours and have decided to go with Amsoil synthetic ISO-100 / SAE 30/40 air compressor oil because It has the highest flashpoint I've found at 504F. It's not intended for breathing air compressors but it's flashpoint matches or exceeds every breathing compressor oil I could find including the ones mentioned above. It's been raining here all day so I've been lazy. I need to go out to the shop and measure up to cut those gaskets.
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If anyone has information on a more detonation resistant oil than the one I mentioned above please educate me. I appreciate everyone's help.
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Chemlube 751 is iso 150 and has an 18 degree high flashpoint due to it's higher viscosity. I did all my research on iso 100. If I could find a quart of Chemlube 751 delivered at a reasonable price I'd go with it but I I can't find that.
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Before we give someone an overpriced oil aneurysm I'd like to say that any non detergent compressor oil will get the lubrication job done. I'm only looking at high end oils for the detonation resistance.
Detonation is what causes out primary or secondary piston to fail.
Detonation is what causes out primary or secondary piston to fail.
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Secolube 500 is $18 a quart or $59 a gallon. It is the equivalent oil of Chemlube 751. I've used it in my high end compressors for years.
CL-581812-LQ Compressor Oil (filtertechs.com)
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$29.56 with shipping but I ordered a quart for testing. I guess the cost isn't significant since it has a long drain interval and only takes 9 ounces. Specs say iso 100 with a 520F flashpoint.
Thanks for the link.
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I have a DFX file now to cnc laser cut yong heng top end gaskets. I'll test the gaskets cut from 1/16" material tomorrow to be sure the compressor functions correctly. If anyone needs the file just PM me here. I don't think I could sell them for enough to be worth the hassle.
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Does the measurement come from a new set of gaskets or have they been compressed? I can't find metric gasket material in the USA.
Thank you for your help.
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Got the compressor back together yesterday morning and 1/16" gasket material was fine for the primary cylinder base gasket but too thick for the secondary so I cut another one from 1/32" material. That let it build high pressure but there's a lot of blow by coming from the crankcase vent and it's way slower to top off a tank than it used to be. The ring gaps are set correctly and I checked ever fitting for leaks but found none. The primary cylinder had a good size area that didn't look like the rings were sealing. I didn't take the valve body apart to clean it like I should have but I'll do that this morning to see if it helps. I ordered another $224 dollar pump from ebay with the fat secondary cylinder and no stainless tubes. It may not arrive until 1-Dec.
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My compressor is about 8 months old. Never had any oil smells coming from compressor while filling tanks. I have always used the recommended expensive breathing air compressor oils in the case. I’m thinking if you have any kind of oil smell coming from your compressor you are probably having detonation issues. Anyone out there using the proper oils and still noticing oil smell coming from compressor I’d like to know. Maybe I’m wrong on this but let’s hear from others.
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