Yong Heng Cooling what has worked and what about a larger capacity water pump?

So I have been experimenting with the Yong Heng and using the absolute heck out of it.

I just want to confirm both using the Yong Heng temp gauge and a laser thermometer a 4 gallon bucket made a huge difference on temp and how fast it heated up, and how long it stayed at a stable temp 52 Celsius after a very long run time but ran for a very long time in the 40's before settling around at that temp. 

Then dish soap in the water does drop temp by 2 Celsius on average making it about a 50 Celsius. 

Then a 20,000mah rechargeable fan clipped to the handle blowing directly on the 2nd stage and pipes and now we are at 48 Celsius. 

These are very long run times filling a 86cu ft bottle from 1800-2200psi to 4200-4300psi with just usually one break during that cycle to dump some ice packs in the water and cool the water back down.

With out getting crazy I would like to shoot for maybe 45 Celsius or less next. I think a larger/faster water pump might be the ticket? Or do we want the water going slow to pick up the heat? 

Any recommendations on a water pump if that is something that helps?

For those hot air tubes I have some ideas involving something like this

https://amzn.to/3FDPSGn

https://amzn.to/3mLaFim

https://amzn.to/3AucaX1



https://amzn.to/3FB2cqU I figure these aluminum blocks will be good heat sinks for the water especially if air is passed by them. Maybe one on the intake and one on the outlet?
 
The hot air tubes have been successfully cooled by being wrapped in cloth and soaked with water.

45C head temp is a lofty goal and as heat is the enemy it would be good. You have already done a great job thus far at getting the temp down. 

These things were actually only made for intermittent duty not continues.

So, If you are going to run it longer than 20-30 minutes you probly have a need for it to be cooler. 

I would think that 50-52C you have it at now would be good already.

Still, if you want it lower have at it I'm all for lower temps on these things although I thought mine was good at 57c I might change my mind after this.

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/mods-for-the-yong-heng-compressor-werq-well-so-far/?referrer=1

Edit;

I used a pump with more output and it did not make a difference although if your water source and compressor are at different heights I am sure it would make a difference.
 
Increasing the flow rate with ambient water temperatures might not do much good



Heat pipe cooling are pretty nice too, i have on occasions used it on PC builds and overclocked the CPU pretty darn far with it, and still had a decent noise level from the fans on the cooler.

I have little fate in passive heatpipe cooling.



Cool is always good in just about anything
 
DD7C94A9-B2FA-42C7-91E9-E146411D08B6.1633979120.jpeg
I pass a windstorm over mine, ice in water….stable in the low 40’s. Pressure gauge gave up many fills ago…..
 
DD7C94A9-B2FA-42C7-91E9-E146411D08B6.1633979120.jpeg
I pass a windstorm over mine, ice in water….stable in the low 40’s. Pressure gauge gave up many fills ago…..

I have a 6" duct fan also I didnt even think about using, that large blower fan what is that from? I thought about using a cooler also thinking it might keep the water colder longer, but then I thought that once the water is a little warm then the cooler would start working like a insulator and start holding the heat in? I was also thinking that with the water pump that if the outlet water from the pump fell through the air before it went back into the water bucket that simply falling through the air might release some of the heat from the water and transfer it to the air? 
 
DD7C94A9-B2FA-42C7-91E9-E146411D08B6.1633979120.jpeg
I pass a windstorm over mine, ice in water….stable in the low 40’s. Pressure gauge gave up many fills ago…..

I have a 6" duct fan also I didnt even think about using, that large blower fan what is that from? I thought about using a cooler also thinking it might keep the water colder longer, but then I thought that once the water is a little warm then the cooler would start working like a insulator and start holding the heat in? I was also thinking that with the water pump that if the outlet water from the pump fell through the air before it went back into the water bucket that simply falling through the air might release some of the heat from the water and transfer it to the air?

That is a nice setup. Not sure having the water return above surface helps cooling but it absolutely does one thing-it allows you to monitor for water pump failure (and to be sure you've turned it on). I use a small toolbox (about 2 gallons) that I added a spigot valve to at one end. In summer I add ice to about half full and then water to full. Water can then be drained off if you need to add ice but for top off's on a Great White tank I only have to add some ice occasionally and only in the middle of summer heat. Spring and fall it usually doesn't need much if any ice for top offs.
 
I've tried it by filling the reservoir full with ice first and then adding water as possible and have never seen the flow impacted (return above water to see the return flow). Doing that usually allows a full top off in summer heat with maybe a little ice added but in spring and fall less ice is needed. I have some 3600 psi condor bottles so I often top off from above 3600 back to 4400 and that usually leaves quite a bit of ice in the reservoir but if I use it down closer to 3000 then adding ice is usually necessary. Certainly several ways to cool them acceptably without major difficulty.
 
I have just been dumping whatever ice is in my icemaker into a 5gal bucket full of water at letting her rip. I haven't felt the need to to do much more. But, like biohazardman, I was fine with it finishing up around 54C.

For the heat tube idea, you might look up how to DIY an "immersion wort chiller." I think running a fan over a big copper coil would get you a lot more heat dissipation than one of those electronics sinks. I would run the hot h2o through the coil before it hits the reservoir.
 
A higher flow pump won't make a difference unless your putting more heat into the water than it can carry and I can tell you that you're not even close. Around 50c is a good temperature for a piston pump. Try not to make life too complicated, good enough is good enough.

If you just want to tinker build a baffled filter box to make the pump quieter. Replace the tiny filter with the largest hose barb you can fit and plumb it to the filter box.

As long as you're having fun that's all that matters.
 
So I have been experimenting with the Yong Heng and using the absolute heck out of it.

I just want to confirm both using the Yong Heng temp gauge and a laser thermometer a 4 gallon bucket made a huge difference on temp and how fast it heated up, and how long it stayed at a stable temp 52 Celsius after a very long run time but ran for a very long time in the 40's before settling around at that temp. 

Then dish soap in the water does drop temp by 2 Celsius on average making it about a 50 Celsius. 

Then a 20,000mah rechargeable fan clipped to the handle blowing directly on the 2nd stage and pipes and now we are at 48 Celsius. 

These are very long run times filling a 86cu ft bottle from 1800-2200psi to 4200-4300psi with just usually one break during that cycle to dump some ice packs in the water and cool the water back down.

With out getting crazy I would like to shoot for maybe 45 Celsius or less next. I think a larger/faster water pump might be the ticket? Or do we want the water going slow to pick up the heat? 

Any recommendations on a water pump if that is something that helps?

For those hot air tubes I have some ideas involving something like this

https://amzn.to/3FDPSGn

https://amzn.to/3mLaFim

https://amzn.to/3AucaX1



https://amzn.to/3FB2cqU I figure these aluminum blocks will be good heat sinks for the water especially if air is passed by them. Maybe one on the intake and one on the outlet?



Becarfull using dish soap. I use red line water wetter which is pretty much dish soap but has anti corrosive additives which the dish doesn't and you wouldn't want it to have. Another thing I always did was when I was done filling what ever I was filling I would always blow out the coolant with compressed air to dry it.
 

Be careful using dish soap. I use red line water wetter which is pretty much dish soap but has anti corrosive additives which the dish doesn't and you wouldn't want it to have. Another thing I always did was when I was done filling what ever I was filling I would always blow out the coolant with compressed air to dry it.

It only takes one tiny drop in a 5 gallon bucket of water and won't hurt anything. I recommend Dawn brand. Aluminum depends on a layer of oxide to prevent further corrosion.

Don't you find the smell of redline ww repulsive? Maybe it's just me but that stuff smells terrible.
 
go to amazon get a jug of redline water weter its already to go dont use water it will bring yourtemps down by 15 degrees easy that ice crap is just a messs to play with or get engine ice its about 22 bucks a 1/2 gallon or something way better than water and no need for ice crap

The "ice crap" works just fine. Water Wetter would not lower running temps as much.
 
go to amazon get a jug of redline water weter its already to go dont use water it will bring yourtemps down by 15 degrees easy that ice crap is just a messs to play with or get engine ice its about 22 bucks a 1/2 gallon or something way better than water and no need for ice crap

The "ice crap" works just fine. Water Wetter would not lower running temps as much.

I agree my temp will get up to 48-50c and ill add some of the ice packs to the 4 gallon bucket and almost instantly the temp starts decreasing. It will go all the way down to 42-44c just by adding Ice or ice packs to the water bucket and then hold that temp for a longer period of time before it starts to climb back up to that 48-50c area. We are already dealing with water and liquids, I don't understand what the big deal with Ice or Ice packs are. I plan on freezing some 2 liter bottles of water and I bet that helps even more as my ice packs are all the smaller ones to use on burns and bruises type stuff.

And 1 drop of dish soap does really drop the temp by 2deg Celsius when using a 4 gallon bucket. A drop of dish soap is basically free and something we already have. Also if one of my cats or dogs was to drink out of the bucket of water a drop of dish soap aint gonna hurt them. There is a video on the youtubes of a gentleman using a commercial water wetter but I dont remember the brand name, but his temps were running at 54c on his yong heng, I am much cooler then that without even using ice, with just my fan and cold water and soap I am at 48c for a very long period of time, about 20+ minutes before the water warms enough to hit 50c. then i just stop let it cool and add ice packs to cool the water back down and I am off and running for another 20-30min of fill time. which it usually takes me about 40-50 minutes to top off my 9l bottle.
 
I can run my YH over an hour without reaching 50C. Couple weeks ago I just had to fill two of my 14L SCBA tanks completely from zero=empty, that was about a 3 Hrs run time each.

(refilling just to top up is a piece of cake story, but filling from a zero that is a f@, and definitely need earmuffs sitting there and monitoring for hrs)

Cold water from the tap slowly filling the bucket actually just keeping a safe level above the water pump, because the output water I just flush down directly into sink.

So the piston head Temp is safe, but on the long runs I am tinkering how to cool the motor and the oil...got some high volume fan recently will entertain with it next time I do things.
 
There's only so much capacity in the 2nd stage water cooling jacket. Imho a higher capacity pump would be capable of moving more water through the jacket at a faster rate but at some point there has to be diminishing returns as the SIZE of the jacket remains a constant. That's why I work on keeping my water SUPPLY as cold as possible while operating the compressor with an external fan blowing on the 1st & 2nd stage pistons. So far, so good. 
 
There's only so much capacity in the 2nd stage water cooling jacket. Imho a higher capacity pump would be capable of moving more water through the jacket at a faster rate but at some point there has to be diminishing returns as the SIZE of the jacket remains a constant. That's why I work on keeping my water SUPPLY as cold as possible while operating the compressor with an external fan blowing on the 1st & 2nd stage pistons. So far, so good.

Agree. And that is why I decided to use a smaller size (a roughly 2 gallon toolbox) for my reservoir. The smaller volume of water gets much colder with a given volume of ice. I have used the stock pump for over 3 years.