Budget (YH Like) Compressor Tips Compilation and experiences

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My YH got a check valve between hp piston and gauge. if i open then connected tank, the pressure goes up and i always thought that the piston is under pressure too but i was wrong :) you have to remove the outlet pipe and the check valve falls out - if its build in.

i bought a better pump and changed the weak hoses for a higher waterflow.
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Hubertus, can you post a picture of it?

Is my understanding that the pump included have enough flow, more flow will not improve the cooling process.
 
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So what temp. should it be around? Mine has the Celsius gauge. Mine normally runs between 53-60c even up to 25-30 minutes of run time.
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That is relative, in my case never over 50, but that thermometer is crap, the probe may be touching something hot or not. Is pretty easy to take it out and check it, the probe should not touch anything.. When my compressor is running never pass 40, and when it shut off, goes up until 50 (since the internal fan stop working)...sorry I do not have an exact number and remember, is only my experience...tiny one since is only with 1 compressor.
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The probe should be installed in the second stage head, not dangling in the case, and yes the probe should be in direct contact, not floating in the air. There is a small hole in the base of the second stage head for this probe. It is the heads you don't want to get too hot, not the air around the motor.
 
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The probe should be installed in the second stage head, not dangling in the case, and yes the probe should be in direct contact, not floating in the air. There is a small hole in the base of the second stage head for this probe. It is the heads you don't want to get too hot, not the air around the motor.
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Thanks, i will check that!
 
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I think what Jammin22 is getting at is answered with this : When you go to top off your tank the (second time after cool down) make sure tank is closed and hoses are bled off first! Don't open your tank valve until you have your hose up to that pressure and SLOWLY open your tank valve to finish filling it. You can easily start your compressor because the hoses start from 0 psi for the FIRST FEW SECONDS only though! Compare your gauges on your first fill cause most are cheapies. Bill
 
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If you install a foster check valve in your system between the compressors hose and the tanks hose you can open the valve on your tank before starting your compressor as the check valve will hold back the air from the compressor until the pressure is equalized, then the check valve will open letting air flow towards the tank. Helps prevent accidental ruptures of the explosion proof disc and works the same as filling a rifle that still has air in the cylinder. I use a secondary filter filled with molecular sieve and I have my check valve on the inlet side of that filter, with the compressors bleed valves open I start my compressor open my tanks valve, close the compressors bleed valves and let the pressure begin to build, when the pressure coming from the compressor matches the pressure left in my tank the check valve opens and air flows into my filter and into my tank.
 
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In edosan's tip #4, he suggests releasing the water purging valve " (This means that you need to open the screw (the opposite side of the decompression screw, not mentioned in the pic) for a few seconds every 5 minutes or so. You will see how much water and oil goes out. (And do not get into your tank)". If it only takes 1 minute to fill your rifle, Should I do it every 5 rifle fills or at some point during the 1 minute it takes to fill one individual rifle? Excuse my ignorance, but kept reading about purging water from pumps, even hand pumps, but never understood what the instruction were talking about!
 
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Personally, I open the valve on the compressor and let it run for a few seconds open to purge moisture before shutting the compressor off, even when filling rifles directly. Seems you wouldn't get any gradual buildup of oil/water that way. I recently topped off a large tank for the first time with the YH and I opened the purge on the compressor immediately after I closed the tank valve and the let the compressor run for a few seconds. Might not be helping anything with this method but it might be eliminating some moisture.
 
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In edosan's tip #4, he suggests releasing the water purging valve " (This means that you need to open the screw (the opposite side of the decompression screw, not mentioned in the pic) for a few seconds every 5 minutes or so. You will see how much water and oil goes out. (And do not get into your tank)". If it only takes 1 minute to fill your rifle, Should I do it every 5 rifle fills or at some point during the 1 minute it takes to fill one individual rifle? Excuse my ignorance, but kept reading about purging water from pumps, even hand pumps, but never understood what the instruction were talking about!
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Good point! I will add that later

Skip the purge part, just leave the purge valve open for 1 minute or so before filling your gun. Remember, the point of doing this is avoid oil and water condensation find the way to your airgun tank
 
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The water pump that came with my Y/H would start and stop (very intermittent) so i bought a ryobe wet saw pump for 10 or 15 bucks ? at home depot to replace it. Works great.
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I have been an Aquarist (fresh and salt water) for a lot of years, I know a few things about pumps and flow...that intro is only to say, the pump that comes with YH is very basic but enough for the purposes and you can find similar pumps in any aquatic store (or pet sections on walmart, hd, etc) those are cheap 10 bucks sounds about right
 
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I have mine set up with the water return above the surface of the water so that I can see water flow at all times. So far the stock water pump has never quit on mine and has worked well but many think the wet tile saw pumps flow more. Might cool better?
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stock pump have enough flow, but is always a good idea to have a spare one, more flow will not improve the cooling (Ice will)
 
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