Yeng Hong Frankenstein

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EdCaffreyMS

EdCaffreyMS

Member
Mar 6, 2020
96
33
Montana, United States
This is what happens when you have a newbie get his hands on the issue of keeping a Yeng Hong Compressor cool. I had an old "A" coil from our central air until sitting around, and thought I'd salvage it for the compressor. It looks horrible....but I can now fill a 30 cubic ft bottle to 4000psi, all at once, with the compressor never exceeding 130F! Without the coils/heatsinks, it took me several sessions to fill the bottle, letting the compressor cool down between sessions. 

I cut up the old "A" coil, splitting the internal copper tubing, so is mates with the tubing on the compressor. I used double back thermal tape on the mating surfaces (got a roll from Amazon for about $10) and then stainless tie wire to secure the pieces of cooling coil. 

It might just be the ugliest little thing on the planet.... but it stays way cooler than without the coils/heatsinks! I think if I were to mount a small fan so that it blows across the coils, it might even keep things cooler.

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omg .. no, just no, lol ...bear in mind that the 'whole' unit is light intermittent duty and your only taking temp readings at one point assuming your using the built in gauge .. if the manifolds get overheated it fries seals and maybe pops the valve .. motor gets overheated it can roast that, lower end can overheat to .. actually the most effective thing that can be done imo is to run the unit in a very cool ambient temp place and put a high output fan right on the whole thing ...
 
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Very good suggestions/input, and I totally agree with all of it. 

I changed out the temp gauge to one that reads in Fahrenheit.... with the probe still in the same place/position. When I was filling the bottle, I noticed that the temp only got above 120F during the last 1,500 of so psi of the 4000psi fill. 130F was only there for a few seconds at a time, as the temp fluctuated between that (130F) and 125F during that last 1,500psi.

I also totally agree that this little guy isn't anything other the light duty. I have tested it as it appears in the pics..... and as was mentioned, I'd considered the vibration factor too....which is the main reason for using the thermal tape AND SS tie wire. The pad it sits on does much of lessen overall vibration, but it is certainly still there and strong.

So far things are working out. Most of the time this compressor will be used for filling my Marauder from 2000 to 3000psi, or any other gun that happens to come along. Even though I CAN fill the bottle in one session, but most of the time likely won't. I'd rather take the safe route and hopefully make the compressor last a while longer then if I just tortured it. :)


 
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I see a fair amount of people doing some crazy things to their YHs. I just run mine with distilled water and anti-freeze (50/50) with a bottle of that water wetter in a 5 gallon bucket. I do have a fan that blows across the head. It keeps cool, even in a garage that hits some high temps here in AZ.
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That brings up something I've been meaning to ask, and think you've answered.... anti-freeze. It seems to me that with straight water, and the intense heat, things would get nasty quickly (internally). So any old ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) is ok? Or does it require as specific type? I have all kinds of anti-freeze, and was thinking of using the "all makes/all models" stuff.... it's the pink colored that is in most new vehicles. Any thoughts? Thank you!
 
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You'd be better off wrapping paper shop towels around the stainless tubes and keeping them wet during use. This will keep the temperature down. Straight water works fine but you may gain a little cooling by adding one drop of dish detergent to the bucket of water that the pump is in. The soap does the same thing "water wetter" does in breaking the surface tension of water allowing it full contact with the cooling surface. One drop is plenty.

I don't use the soap and I top off a 75cf tank non stop every time without over heating. The pump should start running cooler after it's broken in well.
 
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You'd be better off wrapping paper shop towels around the stainless tubes and keeping them wet during use. This will keep the temperature down. Straight water works fine but you may gain a little cooling by adding one drop of dish detergent to the bucket of water that the pump is in. The soap does the same thing "water wetter" does in breaking the surface tension of water allowing it full contact with the cooling surface. One drop is plenty.

I don't use the soap and I top off a 75cf tank non stop every time without over heating. The pump should start running cooler after it's broken in well.
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Thank you! That is good to know info. After reading the posts here, I changed out the coolant to 50/50 ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) and water, and even it it doesn't provide greater cooling, hopefully it will prevent any interior damage due to corrosion. Unless I get really heavy into the PCPs, I can't see myself putting the mileage on a compressor that other might. Again, I just really appreciate folks here helping me as a newbie to PCP guns. THANKS!!
 
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Click to expand...

Thank you! That is good to know info. After reading the posts here, I changed out the coolant to 50/50 ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) and water, and even it it doesn't provide greater cooling, hopefully it will prevent any interior damage due to corrosion. Unless I get really heavy into the PCPs, I can't see myself putting the mileage on a compressor that other might. Again, I just really appreciate folks here helping me as a newbie to PCP guns. THANKS!!
Click to expand...

Straight water will cool better than an anti-freeze mix and it will never corrode if you let the hoses drain out each time. I recommend changing the oil after the first hour because there will be fine metal in it from break in. Only use compressor oil even though the chinese makers say hydraulic oil (iso 100 = 30 weight). Hydraulic oil stinks like sulfur and the air coming out will too. Never use detergent motor oil because it suspends particles and there is no pump and filter to remove them.
 
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