Wow, can I get another bite of crow?

Fellas, I have learned that I was quite wrong about click vs. hold over. I recently splurged on a juicy 5-25*50 Discovery HD FFP scope. It is a nice step up from the glass I had been using. The turrets are crisp and locking, and they have nice large numbers written on the 1/10 mil dials. I spent a few hours shooting today, working on my range card for the Mrod .25. I did not have my usual table and lead sled to work from, rather i worked from the dead shot field pod. I had some trouble with the hold over/hold under from the not so steady rest. On a whim, i tried click method. Man or man, it was so much easier to hold on target with the cross hairs.

I am sold on range click method for this scope.
 
Nice... Until last year I was a big holdover fan. Then I bought an Athlon Midas TAC, pretty much made for clicking, and I was hooked. Now I have three more Athlon scopes that I click with. Its even easier when you get a large elevation turret add on, and write or print in the yardages. I call it "dial-a-yardage". Laser the range, turn to correct yardage, pull trigger, dead squirrel, easy...

http://scope-werks.com/index.php


 
Each method has it's advantages and disadvantages.

Yep, in a unsteady position or from a unsteady type of rest, holdovers are harder to do, depends on the size of the target....

On the other hand holdovers can be faster and are more effective with a steady rest if speed matters. Especially with .2 mil reticles since 1 click can be seen in the reticle. I actually proved this out myself when I heldover and off using the H59 reticle in a long range series, prone off the bipod, on steel, at various distances. There was a strict time allowance so since I didn't dial and there were 10 shots involved, I could use that extra time to see what the wind was doing and other things. I won the series twice.

You lose a little time dialing, and you normally have to take your eye out of the scope and reset your eye and resettle position, but the eye is naturally drawn to center.

I do both, whichever suits me at the time.
 
Got the time to polish the hold off chart from 10y to 40y, this a.m. I am kind of a numbers nerd, so i plopped the data into Xcell and printed off a guide for my field use. It will be 2 week before I can get out where i have more than 80 yards to shoot.

When the .25 Hades arrive, I'll get to re-do the whole process if they prove to shoot accurately. Oh dang! More reasons to shoot ;)
 
Hey Jim, I've become a huge click fan as well! It seems to make the FFP scopes obsolete too (wish I knew this before buying a bunch..). PM me your address and I'll send you some scope stickers for your discovery, we have very similar set ups!

1589528072_2376673045ebe46083e1502.49967534.jpg
1589528132_16516267195ebe4644afea86.69047897.jpg
1589528133_10417490825ebe4645a2d2a5.10049870.jpg
1589528134_19820969975ebe46466e2a93.37631376.jpg

 
Hey Jim, I've become a huge click fan as well! It seems to make the FFP scopes obsolete too (wish I knew this before buying a bunch..). PM me your address and I'll send you some scope stickers for your discovery, we have very similar set ups!

1589528072_2376673045ebe46083e1502.49967534.jpg
1589528132_16516267195ebe4644afea86.69047897.jpg
1589528133_10417490825ebe4645a2d2a5.10049870.jpg
1589528134_19820969975ebe46466e2a93.37631376.jpg

How did you make those stickers? Are they self adhesive or do you add double sided tape to the back. That looks like the perfect solution to getting the distance markers correctly spaced.
 
I have in the past, and occasionally still do, shoot both ways. Seems both have their uses, sometimes one might serve better than the other. If one sits at a bench and shoots known distances all the time then clicking is great. If one shoots in situations where distance is not necessarily exactly known or shots are often taken quickly then holdover can be faster/better. Absolutely dependent on the situation IMO. Two potential problems I see with clicking-where do you click to (if distance is being estimated you are still estimating so the hold can work as well) and do you remember to return to zero before the next shot or click to adjustment.