Woe is me! I need a little help guys

I screwed up fellas. Hat in hand I stand before you to admit my foolishness and ask y'all for some help.

I had my Woods Walker P-Rod shooting damn fine and I fell for the social presure to toss the stock barrel for a fancy schamcy custom barrel and a bigger TP just cause it was only 10.00 more. To add to my error, I screwed around with the hamme and spring settings before I got my hands on a chronograph. 

over 1000 pellets later, I am not convinced that I made a single good decision the day I broke the seals on the gun. I even swapped the bolt handle to left hand, and I regret that too.

I want my sweet shooting W-W back! Tomorrow will see the stock barrel put back in service and the bolt handle back to right hand side. What I need help with is finding the tune of the hammer and spring that made my gun so good before I pooched it up.

Does anyone have a clue of what the crosman factory setting should be for the hammer and spring adjustments?

I know better than changing 4 things at once. .. man I was stupid when I did that.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
My factory p-rod settings H/T-1/2cw -H/S-51/2cw was pretty good out of the box.13-14ftlbs i went to 6cw hammer spring was 18.13s@585to 615 and back585 24 shots , hope this helps -swap out enough to get your tune back, then switch barrels.I had a very accurate p-rod stock,And I had to play with it,lots of reading, head scratching and air.Now its an amazing shooter.I didnt try all mods at once though ,your gun is still there, just finding it again, good luck,Something so much fun can b so frustrating
 
Great info guys. I know better than to do techie stuff after I work a midnight shift and before I sleep. The blame is all on me for getting dumb with the project. The gun has dropped from an obsession to somewhere between laundry and dishes on the "wanna do it" list. That must not be allowed.

I get to work day shift the next threee weeks... so I will find that sweet Prod again!
 
You're in good company. A lot of us have been guilty of messing around with our airguns before knowing if the gun needs it, or what our mods will do to accuracy. It's part of the learning curve.

I have come to believe in the "if it ain't broke" approach to my air guns or in letting the pros handle it if they need work. 

Out of interest, what were you trying to achieve with the hammer spring mods? Was there an accuracy issue before? 

Also, what makes you think the new barrel is the problem? I.e. Could it be that the new barrel just likes a different pellet etc? Or mybe the new barrel will work well once the hammer spring is fixed?

Is the new barrel one of the Marmot Militia drop-in replacements? My understanding is that these are among the best. 
 
The new barrel is lost in the dust of the multiple mad cap changes. The TP was put back to stock early on. The crony was used to get a decent ~12-14 FPE string. Once dialed to that point, I went back to paper shooting.

Stock, I was under $.25 piece at 30 yards. Now, I am a 4"+ at 30 yards. The gun shoots like a shot gun. I do get 2 or 3 pellets nearly touching, out of 24-32. Being on the bottle makes no difference. Consistent pellet speed is nothing if I can't hit for nothing.
 
I would rather not say, as I am sure the malfunction was caused by my lack of discipline. It would be unfair to blast the barrel maker (who does recomended a different pellet) when my biggest problem was the HS and HT settings. Once I am fine with the setup again, I may swap barrels again.

one thing I did notice, was by turning the barrel shroud, I walked the poi around the clock from 6 o clock low to 12 o clock high about 3" from point of aim. . The same shroud and ldc on the stock barrel does not do this.
 
"JimNM"I would rather not say, as I am sure the malfunction was caused by my lack of discipline. It would be unfair to blast the barrel maker (who does recomended a different pellet) when my biggest problem was the HS and HT settings. Once I am fine with the setup again, I may swap barrels again.

one thing I did notice, was by turning the barrel shroud, I walked the poi around the clock from 6 o clock low to 12 o clock high about 3" from point of aim. . The same shroud and ldc on the stock barrel does not do this.
I doubt it was your setting that caused an issue more than your pellet choice for the barrel. I can tell you this, I bought a used, off the YF classifieds, supposedly marmot militia hammer forged barrel and shroud for a Prod. It could be that it wasn't genuine but it matched the description and lengths of the MM specs. It shot like dung with all pellets. I put the factory barrel back on which actually shoots very good with CP and H&N FTTs. I just wanted a longer barrel for more fps. It did increase the speed but accuracy was trash. 

I cleaned and polished it in a attempt to make it right. It didn't get better. I pushed JSB pellets through it. It had an extremely tight choke. I ended up cutting a small portion of the choked area off and recrowning it. The accuracy improved but not good enough. Tried many different pellets. I threw it in the trash as I could never sell it to someone knowing that is was inadequate. I hear folks rave about the aftermarket Prod and Mrod barrels but I had a bad experience with what I bought used. 
 
A lot of answers here but thought I'd say that if you email Crosman they will send you the factory tuning values and some extra spec. stuff. I think it was Beth at Crosman who answered my email. But this is an FYI.
I know how you are missing your sweet spot tune. I had a Marauder .25 and I could cut cards in half, (at 20 yd), and hit tic tacs off of golf T's at 50 yards. I screwed something up and sent it in and they gave me a whole new rifle that didn't come close to the old one's performance. Nice to get a new gun for free but I sure miss that other one.

**Wound up finally buying a new Green Mountain barrel and I got 98% of the old gun back.

Best of luck

KP