Wldcat II Cocking Lever Pin Fell Out

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J

Jim81

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Nov 2, 2017
550
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Wa, United States
I was luckily shooting off my bench, rather than pesting, and the WC wouldn't cock and seat a new pellet from the magazine. Upon closer examination The cocking lever had become unattached to the rest of the mechanism. It came unattached at the first articulation point towards the gun not outward, as a pin that holds that together dropped out. It dropped onto the top of my bench and I though Oh well just locktite it and put it back in. When I got under some good light I saw that it was not a small tiny allen head screw but rather a pin. I have seen those pins in other applications and most often when putting something back together they often hold two parts together. Sometimes you need pliers to squeeze the pin back into the part. 

The pin on the WC stays loose in that articulation point and will slide right out if only working the cocking lever. How do I fix that? I can't expoxy it as it's hinged connection that needs to move in order to cock the rifle. If it was on a much bigger application a tiny spot weld would keep it in place. No way to do that here. That pin is so tiny I am lucky I even found it. By the way there is another articulation point farther down the cocking lever that is attached the same way. When is it going to drop out?

It's obviously a manufacturing defect. I hope my only choice is not to eat the shipping costs and wait two weeks or more to get it back from FX USA.I have owned 4 FXs. You would think I might learn something, but none of them were problem free. It looks like 2 of the 4, thats a 50% fail rate, will end up back with FX. Those of you who have had zero problems with your FXs consider yourself fortunate. When it works I can't think of another rifle I'd rather shoot. However, the Brocock Sniper HR is coming close.
 
That sucks. Man I want to pick up an Fx so bad but all the posts about issues are just putting me off. Im surprised that some of the dealers have not dropped them from there showroom/website at this point. I know a few RC brands that are not a norm in hobby shops because of constant issues. 

Anyway. I would look into making a replacement pin. Im not sure how the pin you are talking about sits with the gun cocked or un-cocked but if there is room you could simply use a small screw that is of the correct length with a nut on the other side to keep it in place. If not an option due to the part arms being made of aluminum or something (you would not want any threads wearing in that area). Or there just not being clearance. Just make a tighter fitting pin.
 
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Probably not what you want to hear, but in making my Royale able to shoot .22 as well I ordered a bunch of parts but failed to order a 3x10mm pin and another smaller one. I managed to make them both out of a bolt. I just put the bolt in a drill and used an angle grinder to shave off the diameter, then once I have it the diameter I want I just cut it to the proper length. Both are friction fit in my case and both have survived 1000's of shots since then, that said I talked with FXUSA on friday and they are right on the ball if you want to order parts from them.

I personally wouldn't try to use a small bolt or screw there, pin is the way to go.

These are the parts I made, definitely possible and wasn't hard to do with primative tools.

1539531122_10561510485bc36172a84292.54322288_20180412_141417.jpg


1539531158_10317563355bc3619653b837.44502586_20180412_141431.jpg

 
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That piece that that pin felI out of is near a part called the “Reload Sliding bracket”. I know because I stripped the heads on the 2 grub set screws on the opposite side if the pin on my Wildcat MK2. (Totally my fault. I tinker too much) Had a hell of a time getting those buggers off with a teeny tiny set of easy-out tools, took me days and a number of attempts. The grub screws are replaced now and the guns fine. What a PITA! Lesson... Make sure you’re using the right allen key! Ask yourself Metric or Imperial? 🤔 Good luck with your gun in the future. FYI, you can order just about any mechanical part from FX USA and put it on yourself if you’re so inclined. I’ve done it a few times takes 2 to 3 days for delivery. Here’s their contact info.



bed264ca59074289a05170a5ffdc762b.png


Customer Service Team
3024 Hall Watters Dr
Ste. #106
Wilmington NC 28405
Main: 866 639 0772 Opt. 1






1539530166_5254130235bc35db649e2e7.44127889_95E196ED-1ACF-4C71-8F73-D7DA43E1C15B.jpeg


1539530166_5918969465bc35db6c94841.49330899_4D5B15C3-5A03-4563-8A1F-0DDF97F0B69D.jpeg

 
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That piece that that pin felI out of is called the “Reload Sliding bracket”. I know because I stripped the heads on the 2 grub set screws on the opposite side if the pin on my Wildcat MK2. (Totally my fault. I tinker too much) Had a hell of a time getting those buggers off with a teeny tiny set of easy-out tools, took me days and a number of attempts. The grub screws are replaced now and the guns fine. What a PITA! Lesson... Make sure you’re using the right allen key! Ask yourself Metric or Imperial? 🤔 Good luck with your gun in the future. FYI, you can order just about any mechanical part from FX USA and put it on yourself if you’re so inclined. I’ve done it a few times. Here’s their contact info.



bed264ca59074289a05170a5ffdc762b.png


Customer Service Team
3024 Hall Watters Dr
Ste. #106
Wilmington NC 28405
Main: 866 639 0772 Opt. 1






1539530166_5254130235bc35db649e2e7.44127889_95E196ED-1ACF-4C71-8F73-D7DA43E1C15B.jpeg


1539530166_5918969465bc35db6c94841.49330899_4D5B15C3-5A03-4563-8A1F-0DDF97F0B69D.jpeg
Click to expand...


Safe to say NOTHING on an FX is standard. This is not a ford or chevy haha.
 
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Safe to say NOTHING on an FX is standard. This is not a ford or chevy haha.
Click to expand...

True... lol!

But I wouldn’t trade my FX’s for any other.
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I mean standard/imperial/sae opposed to metric, its all metric. I think that's why several people have stripped out the HST nut on some of their guns, trying to make imperial hex work and it just strips. Agreed, so far so great with my FX.
 
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Yep it's a built in flaw, have two Wildcats read about the pin problem before I bought the first one. The pin pictured below is the one I had to fix on both guns. This pin is in a clevis with a center pivot bar, I cleaned the holes and pin with alcohol and used red or green loctite, put the loctite in the bottom clevis hole first, insert the pin with the center bar in place but leave the pin
1539532972_10592236565bc368acde23f5.78644811_Wild cat pin.jpg
sticking out of the top clevis hole a little than loctit the top of the pin than push it in till flush, this keeps the center pivot point free of loctite, use very little loctite, and never lube ever. There is not much up and down torque on the pin I've shot thousands of pellets with no problem not to mention how many times I cocked and fired holding the cocking handle adjusting the trigger. This is the only issue I've had, like the Wildcats so much I don't care what it takes to keep them going, pin only issue so far.
 
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Man! You guys are right on. That's exactly the pin shown in the pictures. I have a lathe and have basic skills but that thing is so darn small I don't even think my chuck could hang on to it. That is a good idea though. I may give it a shot. The loctite also seems viable but I thought of that and determined, maybe inaccurately, that it wouldn't hold well. But your experience dictates other wise. I thought of ordering the part but unless the pin itself is defective, another 500 cycles it'll happen again?? Don't know. Any other thoughts would be well received. Thanks for input. Oh! The comment about certain RC models not in a shop. Been there done that!😁
 
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Yep, I have had the very same pin drop out and was lucky enough to catch it on the table I was shooting off of.

Also I was adjusting the trigger on the WC, there are 3 pins at the bottom of the receiver near the safety. The middle one just dropped out, I talked to Ernest and he said that when he made the video on adjusting the WC trigger, that he forgot to mention that whenever he adjusts the trigger on any WC, that he always takes a piece of scotch tape and puts it on the bottom side of where those 3 pins go through the breach. That way he doesn't have to worry about them dropping out while playing around with the adjustments.
 
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OMG!! FX is suggesting that Scotch tape is the recommended fix for the pins dropping out of the Wildcat. I think that sealed and sank the reputation of FX rifles being at the top of the line. Only owned 4 of them. Whats wrong with FX producing new ones and sending them out to all their WIldcat owners?? They could machine them a couple thousandths to large and instruct people to put them in the freezer for a couple of hours and then slide them in and wait for them to expand when they get room temperature.
 
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Had a hiccup with the computer here...Just pointing out that after reaching room temperature and expanding they should stay in.

I did a temporary fix on mine. I followed the suggestion of a previous poster who used loctite to hold then pin but I used epoxy instead. I cleaned the top of the pin and the clevis area with denatured alcohol and then put a tiny tiny drop of epoxy on the pin head. I applied the epoxy with a sewing needle with just a drop on the sharp end. I let it sit overnite and this morning it worked fine. I even pushed on the cocking lever pin with a small allen wrench. Seemed solid and didn't effect the functioning of the cocking mechanism. Ask me 1000 shots and two weeks from now if it really worked. Think I'll start saving my coins and go with Daystate the next time. My point, and nobody should really care, is FXs testing and quality control as well as their customer support leaves a whole lot to be desired. If you get a 'good' FX they are hard to beat. But...the converse is also true.
 
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Well nasty Milacik. Totally uncalled for. If you stopped giving people step by step instructions you're call. Why point it out? Nobody cares that you don't want to help people that aren't anymore proficient than your 8 year old. That doesn't mean others don't have a brain. Glad the hammer worked for you. Probably luck! Hit the pin a little too hard or a little of center and you have a bent pin or a dinged clevis. Probably ought to get it red hot before you hit too?



Perhaps you need to go back to school and retake the class on punctuation and capitalization.

Wouldn't it have been easier to just point out the post(s) you've made that was a solution for you?

Where's the moderator on that offensive post?
 
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Had a hiccup with the computer here...Just pointing out that after reaching room temperature and expanding they should stay in.

I did a temporary fix on mine. I followed the suggestion of a previous poster who used loctite to hold then pin but I used epoxy instead. I cleaned the top of the pin and the clevis area with denatured alcohol and then put a tiny tiny drop of epoxy on the pin head. I applied the epoxy with a sewing needle with just a drop on the sharp end. I let it sit overnite and this morning it worked fine. I even pushed on the cocking lever pin with a small allen wrench. Seemed solid and didn't effect the functioning of the cocking mechanism. Ask me 1000 shots and two weeks from now if it really worked. Think I'll start saving my coins and go with Daystate the next time. My point, and nobody should really care, is FXs testing and quality control as well as their customer support leaves a whole lot to be desired. If you get a 'good' FX they are hard to beat. But...the converse is also true.
Click to expand...


So you fixed it yourself with a drop of epoxy? Nice, I'm sure it'll hold for a long time. Suggesting scotch tape is pretty ridiculous of them I'm surprised they said that, Ernest said that?

Like I mentioned earlier its pretty easy to make a slightly larger pin with just a drill and angle grinder no lathe required, parts are cheap too. I bet both the cocking arm with the clevis and the other bar are probably 30$ combined if something went terribly wrong. Should you have to fix this? No. Is it a simple fix and nothing to get angry about? Probably yes. This is just my opinion.
 
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Its a problem because the pin was not properly set or staked at the factory. A properly set pin will be flared just a wee bit to hold things together. A possible fix is as follows. Get two small ball peen hammers, insert pin into parts, one ball peen hammer goes on one side of the pin pressed firmly against it, and then tap the other side of the pin a few times. I would use a small dental pick and press on the pin to check for tightness. If still lose tap a bit more. A helping hand or two will help as well. 
 
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If you go back and read the post about the scotch tape, it was used to prevent the “trigger” pins from falling out while adjusting the trigger with the stock off as a temporary measure, once the stock is reinstalled the pins are captured. Not a permanent fix for the cocking lever pin. Loctite makes a Super Glue Ultragel Control that works great for applying a small amount of glue that is not as fluid as most Super glues.
 
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