Will these go together?

Good evening everyone,



Ultra newbie here. Took 4 shots with neighbor’s gamo bone collector, 2 soda cans, 2 squirrels. It was unexpectly exhilarating. Now I want my own.

Can someone tell me if these 3 things will go together, and if they are good choices, and if they are all I need to get started? I know absolutely nothing. Thanks in advance.

-Tonia



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That Hawke scope has a 1" tube, and those BKL rings are 1" as well (I also happen to own that scope, and the single strap version of those rings). To answer your question, those parts will fit together. However, the only thing I'm not 100% certain about is if the Hawke Panorama is springer rifle rated. I shoot PCPs, so I'm not dealing with that violent recoil. Hopefully someone else can chime in about the Panorama on a springer.
 


Is barrel droop a feature or a bug?



Barrel droop is not really a good description. If the barrel and scope are parallel, there is a chance of running out of scope adjustment when attempting to zero at close range, especially with high mounted scope. My HW97 has the RWS lockdown mount with droop comp built in. The Leupold scope is in the center of adjustment when zeroed at 30 yards. A friend of mine with the same rifle doesn't use a droop mount and his is centered also, so it is pretty much a guess. Either will probably work, the difference is only 8 moa.

 
“If the barrel and scope are parallel”

You mean if you draw a line through the barrel, and one through the scope, the 2 lines have to converge, and “zeroed at 30 yards” means the 2 lines intersect 30 yards ahead? If that is the case, does it mean you have to aim higher if the object you want to hit is closer than 30 yards? The aim is only true at 30 yards?


 
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Correct, I have to aim higher to shoot closer than 30 yards. 30 is the apex of trajectory, so I have to aim higher for further also. I loaded a copy of a scope intercept chart for field target.



Sorry for the incomplete explanation. What I meant was sometimes the barrel isn't pointed up enough to account for all the variables like scope height, short zero distance, or mechanical limits of the scope itself. Mostly a problem with break barrels that were originally meant to be shot with iron sights by the manufacture.
 
c_m_shooter, how did you figure out the numbers on your diagram? Used neighbor’s bone collector on 2 squirrels past weekend. Gave the 1st squirrel 2 reversed mohawks (it looked around but didn’t mind at all) before I decided to aim lower. 3rd shot, it had no idea that it was no longer. Also aimed lower with 2nd squirrel, but hit it in the cheek. It staggered 2 steps before going into seizure. I’m guessing the scope is zeroed at 5 yards. Is it arbitrary what distance the scope is zeroed at? How do I figure out how much higher or lower to aim?
 
That is one of the printing options of Chairgun. It is a useful tool if you have good data to input to it. You need to actually measure the muzzle velocity, scope height, and know the bc of your pellet if it is not in the chairgun table. You can play with zero distances to find your theoretical point blank based on kill zone size, or print a holdover chart yard by yard with either click values or mils. 

5 yards is too close of a zero for field use, try 30 or 40 yards.