:)

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My WC MKII didn't even have lock-tite. Mine also looks very different than yours. I use blue lock-tite and it does move after a while. I think the version 1 that had a jamb screw kinda like what you are showing to stop the hammer spring slide thingy from backing out. My biggest problem now I'm shooting 22 cal with 24g slugs and I have run out threads screwing it in to get get the max velocity. With 21g slugs I never ran out of threads before the FPS started going down. Does anyone know if Ernest Rowe makes a heavier hammer or spring? Also, your idea looks like it may stop the backout problem. I don't want to use RED lock-tite that's for sure. I have also read that galling the threads doesn't work and you could damage a lot of parts doing so. Please keep us posted how this works out.
 
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Two great ideas Chuck and SeeOhTwo. I’ve had a mk1 Wildcat for two years now and the hammer spring adjuster would loosen just walking around with it. No factory locktite. Tried Teflon tape and it worked for a while. Recently installed a Huma and purchased the jam nut from FX. Initially when I tried to tighten the jam nut both would turn. I put a o ring between the two and got it to snug up on the adjuster and aligned the two hex heads so I could get the Allen key through both. Now I can adjust at will with no problems and it stays where I put it. Just my little mod.
 
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Chuck, I think I like that better than mine but just to share a quick and dirty mod for those (like me) less willing to drill (I always mess something up).

In the pic, the plastic screw you see is from an auto parts store. Use to hold trim panels on cars. Plastic screw inside a plastic sleeve that expands as the screw is turned in. The catch is that these are two long for use in the pictured location. The hammer will hit it if you don't trim it shorter. I cut it down with a simple snip of the scissors but than had to tape the sleeve that expands with electrical tape (couple wraps) so the screw held tension as you turned it in. the holes in the back of the action overlap so the HS adjuster nut peaks thru the opening this is in. If you use the right diameter panel fastener (an I don't recall what mine was) and place one side of the expanding sleeve to face that gap the HS nut peaks through, it picks up some tension as the panel screw expands. Mines held for close to a year now. I've wanted to do a cleaner version since first attempt but don't want to mess with success



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Chuck, I didn't mean to take anything away from your post, sorry if I did. 

On my 'mod' - I have a parts bin full of these panel fasteners so it was a supper simple attempt for me. My first attempts usually don't work so well 😄. I'll replace with a cleaner one some day soon. Especially since I have 2 others that need the same treatment. The one in the Pic is a .177 (yes I was lucky enough to find an FX ST barrel that actually shoots .177 VERY well at 18-19 fpe, the other 4 attempts were mediocre at best) but I also have a .22 and .25 WC with wandering nuts.
 
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Well, since I have to run and no one else has jumped in in this, I'll just add this...

I think a longer 'bolt' and a drilled/threaded hole from the left side, with a Delrin tipped grub screw (mutant/veteran style) as well as rear access to the HS nut without removing the stock...… solves this problem. FROM THE FACTORY. Of course then I'd have to buy new guns which would be a problem right now so I'll stick with superficial.... I can drill the stock but I won't drill and thread the action.
 
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Too Kool, but Joe what keeps them from backing out from vibration? And also is there any problem from them not having an inset for the spring to ride in?
Click to expand...

Those are my spare blanks in the picture. The machinists let me keep for possible spares later. The final ones are in my rifles, they are set and I don’t think I’ll remove them for a post. Lol! (my tunes are perfect, not doing all that again) But the final ones are the exact same specs as the OEM’s. The inset for the spring is machined to specs as the original hammer spring tension nut, except they adjust with a slot designed for a flat head screwdriver and have more threads on purpose (not too many they where measured during fab and designing). Two drops of blue loctite once adjusted and they don’t move from normal use. But, with a flat screwdriver I can easily move them again and start over. Just like the OEM ones but beefier but designed to actually make adjustments without stripping out. (I’ll post pictures first chance I get)
 
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