Hatsan 8mm shotgun
- Thread starter Septicdeath
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I'm working on a rifle now. It should be done in a few weeks. Modifying a Hatsan .30 caliber break barrel. When it is done it will be a smooth bore 8mm shotgun choked to 7.77 Here's some of the ammo. A paper casing. Holding 47.3 grains of 6 shot around 21 pellets. The casing weight is 1.7
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G
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I know it's a .30cal springer but I wouldn't expect much in the way of power converting it into a shotgun. Meybe 10-15ft of usable distance for a small bird or rat?
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We will need to wait and see distance and power. Will be interesting.
.410
Hatsan
47.3 grains No. 6 shot 560 ft/s We will have to wait for the results
I think the maximum effective range will be 10 yrs. We can let the rats decide!
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No shotgun casings 47.3 grains of 6 shot
But the sabot idea is great I may have to make some.
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Okay, I have thought about this for some time and think that this might work:
Take a plastic .410 shotshell hull (empty) and remove the primer, leaving an opening. Cut the empty hull down in length to accommodate a lead pellet (shot) load. Using a standard plastic .410 wad, insert into the empty hull as one would normally for reloading. Then the lead shot. Fold the plastic top down, just like a reloaded shell (this is the part that I am uncertain due to more pressure to open the fold?). I suppose one could insert a cardboard cap, stopping the shot from falling out.
Then using the now open primer hole in the bottom of the brass hull, fit a probe into that opening with an O-Ring at the bottom to stop leakage/backing out pressure.
The breech end of the barrel will of course need to be milled to the .410 shotshell hull brass head, but that should be easy for any kind of machinist. Using old empty shotshell hulls, would eliminate the need to reinvent something that already exists. All you are doing is trimming the length to fit the need for shot.
Normal shot load is .5 ounce by the way, so with the wad perhaps a total of ± .625 ounces or ± 274 grains. Too much?
Just an idea floating around in my head as I reload shotshells and think that this has some merit?
Take a plastic .410 shotshell hull (empty) and remove the primer, leaving an opening. Cut the empty hull down in length to accommodate a lead pellet (shot) load. Using a standard plastic .410 wad, insert into the empty hull as one would normally for reloading. Then the lead shot. Fold the plastic top down, just like a reloaded shell (this is the part that I am uncertain due to more pressure to open the fold?). I suppose one could insert a cardboard cap, stopping the shot from falling out.
Then using the now open primer hole in the bottom of the brass hull, fit a probe into that opening with an O-Ring at the bottom to stop leakage/backing out pressure.
The breech end of the barrel will of course need to be milled to the .410 shotshell hull brass head, but that should be easy for any kind of machinist. Using old empty shotshell hulls, would eliminate the need to reinvent something that already exists. All you are doing is trimming the length to fit the need for shot.
Normal shot load is .5 ounce by the way, so with the wad perhaps a total of ± .625 ounces or ± 274 grains. Too much?
Just an idea floating around in my head as I reload shotshells and think that this has some merit?
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You could also add some hot wax to your shot and let cool to help keep it together longer. It should extend the range some if you wanted.
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My concept is from the civil war. Buck and ball loads. But has been modified I also use it in my 28 ga Muzzleloader shotgun. The cartridge is a thin piece of tubing made to 7.874 there is a wad in the breach end. The case is cut in ten places around the top for crimping. They are filled with shot. Then they are crimped and a small drop of dopp wax keeps the crimp closed.
When the gun is fired it compresses the wad splitting the paper casing and opens the crimp. The barrel is slightly choked further opening the casing as it leaves the barrel
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I may try wax depending on how well these work. I think a soft wax like bees wax would work best.
They are great in my Muzzleloader shotgun
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I found this on YouTube pretty much the same idea I'm using. Except I'm actually making a smoothbore to use them in.
https://youtu.be/0WIJtUIH-GE
https://youtu.be/0WIJtUIH-GE
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G
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Ssve yourself some time and money.
https://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Gamo_Viper_Express_Air_Shotgun_Rifle/1020
https://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Seneca_Wing_Shot_Shotgun/3777
https://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Gamo_Viper_Express_Air_Shotgun_Rifle/1020
https://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/Seneca_Wing_Shot_Shotgun/3777
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Why would I want a viper express. .22 Cal to small and I don't care for gamo products
Wing Shot is way more than I would ever pay for a airgun I'll used my regular arms hunting ducks, pheasants, etc...
I will have something no one else has. I like building things. My total cost is $169. And the knowing how to ream and polish a barrel cartridges are free except a couple of my shotgun shells and a hour or so I could be wasting in front of the TV
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The barrel is done reamed and polished to 8mm the shroud will be cut and reinstalled to cover the end nut a bead sight installed and the gun reassembled.
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Can you imagine how much fun you are going to be having when the flocks of starlings come by! Like duck hunting... only miniature! I want one.
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Can you imagine how much fun you are going to be having when the flocks of starlings come by! Like duck hunting... only miniature! I want one.
Will be fun.
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I finally got to shoot it once. It gets dark so early. I will be shooting it extensively on Monday. This is from 15 feet.
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