What is your favorite bubble level?

Forums Optics, Scopes, Rings, & Mounts What is your favorite bubble level?

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    cmatera
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    Title says it all.  Looking for a few, where to start?

    Mod edit: moved to Optics, Scopes, Rings, and Mounts forum

    • This topic was modified 5 months ago by a Moderator.
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    Motorhead
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    BKL …. while not the prettiest, does offer the greatest mounting position options.  They come in 1" or 30mm

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    mtnGhost
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    I put low-profile Knight's Armament levels on each of my rifles. They're overpriced and can be a pain to mount on certain rails, but I love them – especially for hunting application, where I have found them to provide the quickest indications for canting.

    • This reply was modified 5 months ago by mtnGhost.
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    MScottLeeman
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    I have found these to be my favorite. Around $10- $14 on Amazon w/free shipping. They fit both 1 inch and 30 mm tubes and are well made/look like a quality piece. I have had lousy results with the style that clamps directly to the dovetail or weaver mount.

    Mike.

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    22Jim
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    Amazon! Many choices from $7.00 on up. This is one item where the $7 item is the equal of the $70 item. My cheap scope levels work exactly the same as my expensive ones. The ones I like now are the thin strap versions.

    https://www.amazon.com/Aim-Assist-Offsett-Riflescope-Anti-Cant/dp/B07SX6GBKF/ref=sr_1_40?crid=1FB7E5F25861V

    Jim in Sacramento

    • This reply was modified 5 months ago by 22Jim.
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    nervoustrig
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    In terms of what type to purchase, definitely get a scope-mounted type.  One that mounts to the rail cannot be leveled to the thing that matters which is the reticle.

    Really, pretty much any level that's $5 – $20 will properly indicate level.  Perhaps there is some argument to be made regarding durability with some levels but hopefully it never experiences any severe shock since they are mounted on a scope.

    So I don't see any good reason to spend much on a level.  Spirit level technology is simple, after all.  And it's quite mature; it's been around since 1661.  A spirit level epoxied into an extruded aluminum clamp can be made quite cheaply without sacrificing anything important.  I'm sure these sentiments will be met with some resistance but that's my take on it.

     

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    mtnGhost
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    Being severely OCD with my rifles and having leveled my rail mounted levels with my scope near perfect, I'm going to have to disagree with nervoustrig's statement that it's not possible lol – with the exception of a 20MOA Pic rail riser mount that I got from Amazon, the rail itself was garbage and I returned it. Viva la resistance 🤘

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    PerkyVal
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    I have an inclinometer/bubble level from Amazon on my scope, and a Hawke on my dovetail.

     

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    nervoustrig
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    I'm not saying it's impossible to set up a rail-mounted level correctly, but in many cases it will require shimming the dovetail to introduce some rotation to it.  There are about a half dozen sources of alignment error that renders the receiver out of square/level with the reticle & bore combination.

    The more unfortunate thing is that most users will simply fasten it to the rail and assume they can use it to indicate level and that will almost never be true.  Whereas a scope-mounted level can simply be rotated about the scope tube to achieve the proper alignment.  

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    PerkyVal
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    nervoustrig

    I'm not saying it's impossible to set up a rail-mounted level correctly, but in many cases it will require shimming the dovetail to introduce some rotation to it.  There are about a half dozen sources of alignment error that renders the receiver out of square/level with the reticle & bore combination.

    The more unfortunate thing is that most users will simply fasten it to the rail and assume they can use it to indicate level and that will almost never be true.  Whereas a scope-mounted level can simply be rotated about the scope tube to achieve the proper alignment.  

    I agree for the most part. I use both methods. If they dont agree I know I need to relevel at least one of them.

    I have found redundancy is my friend, is my friend, is my…….

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    Motorhead
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    A VERY IMPORTANT point to be made with CANT levels is being able to view them while your looking threw your scope, or at minimum with your head in the position your sighting threw the scope.   If you need to move your head around to view the bubble your likely to not be level when your back in the shooting position.

    Say if a RH shooter, it is with some practice possible to view the bubble with your left eye.   As a FT shooter this little trick in training your eyes pays dividends.

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    marflow
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    Val is that a well constructed level, I have seen them on Ebay but never bought one

    thank

    mike

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    PerkyVal
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    marflow

    Val is that a well constructed level, I have seen them on Ebay but never bought one

    thank

    mike

    It's ok. I've had much worse for sure. I have 2 that have been fine. The main complaint I have is that they dont make them for 34mm tubes or I'd have one on my Impact.

     

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    Nitrocrushr
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    BKL mounted to scope tube with level set to match cross hairs being level, and kicked out enough for me to see without moving my head from shooting position.

     

    Steve

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    Eaglebeak
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    I totally agree with nervoustrig for the same reasons. Simple is best in this case. Motorhead makes a good point as well. The problem with a lot of people my age is we don't need glasses to look through the scope but can't focus on anything up close without them. I don't want to carry or wear readers whilst hunting. Mounting the bubble forward of the turrets can help but you need to move your head to get an unobstructed view. No matter where I mount it, it's a compromise. Just behind the turrets on the left side is the best I can come up with. 

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    ptthere
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    I bought a scope-mount Discovery level, but then I figured out later that it was a knock-off. Technically there wasn't anything "wrong" with how it performed, but I got my hands on the REAL Discovery Optics level instead, because I prefer the larger bubble/level that it comes with. I don't know if I would buy it again but I can't knock it.

    PT

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    John_in_Ma
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    I like this one. I've been using it for over a year and not only takes the abuse of field target and the travel, but also has been repeatable on the swing out. https://www.opticsplanet.com/wheeler-anti-cant-indicator-30mm.html

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by John_in_Ma.
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    cmatera
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    link does not work

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    Oregun
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    cmatera

    link does not work

    Remove the &nbsp on the end of the link….  than it'll work

    https://www.opticsplanet.com/wheeler-anti-cant-indicator-30mm.html

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by Oregun.
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    bandg
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    Eaglebeak

    I totally agree with nervoustrig for the same reasons. Simple is best in this case. Motorhead makes a good point as well. The problem with a lot of people my age is we don't need glasses to look through the scope but can't focus on anything up close without them. I don't want to carry or wear readers whilst hunting. Mounting the bubble forward of the turrets can help but you need to move your head to get an unobstructed view. No matter where I mount it, it's a compromise. Just behind the turrets on the left side is the best I can come up with. 

    Same here.  I've started removing my levels because I can no longer focus on them from shooting position.  I suppose if it were critical (competition or extreme long range shooting) one could remove the right lens from a pair of readers and use the left lens only to see the level.  

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