Well so much for brand new BSA mk2 .....

Mine has leaked twice now.... BUT the first leak was my fault as I removed the bottle under pressure and then read the directions and it said doing so would cause a leak. It did not leak before that. A week ago it started leaking again and I assumed the bottle oring as I have had the bottle off and on a lot fabricating a hammer bounce device. I replaced the oring and it still leaked. The leak was bad, like leaking out nearly as fast as I could fill it up and after I turned the fill valve off it would be empty in seconds. Air was shooting out the fill port and kind of everywhere. So I thought I was going to have to reseal the rifle. I paused and took the bottle back off and looked at the female part of the block where the bottle screws in. I noticed a very small bit of black sludge on the flat where the bottle oring rested when the bottle gets screwed back in. I got a q-tip and wiped the area clean. Filled it up to 232bar and it has been holding all week. So before you assume the rifle has some internal leak, replace the bottle oring (easy) and clean the whole area where the bottle screws in. I think that silicone grease, rubber orings, and brass combines makes black residue. So seriously clean the area where the bottle screws in. The slightest anything will cause a MASSIVE leak.

I did drop a Huma reg in mine for the heck of it which means I had to pull the factory reg and it removes in parts. Mine was all clean and crisp. Everything I have seen in my rifle has looked factory new. Two of my friends bought rifles after seeing mine and they have had zero issues. All of ours are 177 fwiw.

Brazos, do you know if your rifle was from the first shipment or second shipment that PA got? What about your friends rifles? Also, what is the favorite pellet for your .177's?

Woo Hoo

After 24 hours, no leak. FINALLY.



Mine had a LOT more issues than the bottle o-ring. YMMV as they say.

Congrats, mine has held air as well for over 24 hours now. PA is going to refund my $10 for the 10for 10 text that didn’t mean much. RwsMike, I hope your new rifle works better, update when you get it. PA didn’t acknowledge any of the issues other than saying they’ll give me a refund.

For those who have theirs works jg what kind of shot count are you getting?

60 in .177 but I lowered the hammer spring tension. 

Woo Hoo

After 24 hours, no leak. FINALLY.

Mine had a LOT more issues than the bottle o-ring. YMMV as they say.

Click to expand...

And you earned your PHD-in-PCP repair. Good job to all those who took on fixing their R10's.

Tracking says Saturday I will have the new r10

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If it leaks I think enough of us on this thread have done it now that we can help if you need it to fix yours.

Dr Ken PHD 

I received my rifle on July 3rd. One friend got his in the next shipment around July 16th. My other friend got his around July 24th. All have been fine. Mine seems to shoot most pellets well. JSB Heavies shoot well. Barracuda Match in 4.50 head size has produced my best 50 group and will be fooling with those more.

Since everyone is buying all these o-rings this would be a great time to get some measurements and start an o-ring size list. That would be a big help to people to be able to source o-rings locally for cheap instead of ordering o-ring kits from England.

Well, maybe I spoke too soon. 

I needed to remove the bottle to get the stock back on, and since then have been unable to seal the bottle against the gun. It was weird, I had the gun on a towel on the ground getting ready to fill it again, and it let out a huge whoosh. Obviously the air was getting out and it was obviously the bottle fitting. I think I mentioned before that my brass fitting on the bottle and the brass fitting on the gun snug up completely - it's as if one or the other is too long and the o-ring does not get a chance to compress properly. Could be it's designed that way with just the right gap for the o-ring so it doesn't get over compressed but it doesn't look that way on videos I've watched.

Question: Does your bottle fitting and the bottle port go brass to brass contact when tightened? And I'm not talking cranking on it, it feels like the o-ring is not compressing at all.

I have tried a new nitrile 111 o-ring and a viton 111 o-ring. The only way I can get a seal and it can't be reliable is by doubling up on the o-rings. Both bottle o-ring surface and the port o-ring surface are clean and undamaged.

Hopefully somebody more experienced can answer you with a solution. I’ve only taken the bottle off mine twice but the first time I screwed it back on was with the original oring and that was so compromised that the brass definitely touched. The second time with a new seal I could feel the oring and stopped when I felt it was tight. Maybe the oring you have is too thin? Are you using ones from a kit specifically for the r10?

Hey,

usually its not leaking anymore with a bit space between the brass parts but in can be screwed completly together if you like.

Hubertus is correct. The bottle can be screwed all of the way in - brass touching brass. The o-ring rests in a groove and is compressed into that groove when the bottle is threaded in. Just snug the bottle up. It will not seal any better if it is over tightened. Brazos said it earlier; make sure the o-ring groove, bottle threads and threaded area on rifle are clean. Check the smooth area before the threads on the rifle. This is where the o-ring seals against the gun. Make sure that it is clean and not scratched. It is a good idea to lightly lube the o-ring and bottle threads before reassembly (a little goes a long way). Take care when installing a new o-ring. The bottle threads can nick the o-ring. Also as Kingston said, the o-ring HAS to be the correct size. Too small and it will leak. Too big and you will have trouble getting the bottle on, nick the o-ring and it will leak.

If you find that your bottle seals better if it is backed out a tiny bit that is fine. When the pin in the rifle opens the bottle valve the pressure will keep the bottle from moving (until you unscrew it).

Definitely no nicks in the brass, and no gunk. I did use the seal from the kit - it's always possible I used the wrong seal, since there are a bunch of very similar size and I do remember one being slightly thicker in cross section but I don't recall what i.d. it was. I read somewhere that a 111 0-ring, is the correct one, so I bought some extras in both buna-N and Viton. Seems to fit, but I wonder if a thicker cross section o-ring would work better? Trouble is, o-rings seem to be pretty standard in cross section for a particular range of internal diameter. I use a slight amount of the approved molykote grease.

Anyone have an officially confirmed o-ring size for the bottle?



P.S. For grins I stacked two o-rings last night, funnily enough, they held over 200 bar pressure over night. LOL.

Yes, I said "the o-ring HAS to be the correct size". Maybe I should phrase that a little differently. An o-ring that is too small will most assuredly leak - it can't make proper contact with all of the surfaces that it needs to seal against. An o-ring that is too large just won't compress enough to fit into the groove without shaving some off (thus not sealing and leaking). An o-ring that is just SLIGHTLY bigger can sometimes compress and work.

Ken, I am honestly suprised that doubling the o-ring worked. Hey, if it works it works!!

I did a search and found on a UK forum that XTX Air said a 11mm ID x 2.5mm cross section o-ring will work. On that same forum it was stated that the correct size is 10.77mm x 2.62mm.

Yes, o-rings come in standard sizes and the 111 size is 10.77x2.62. Those are the extras I bought, but the bottle even when brass to brass doesn't seem to want to seal. And there doesn't seem to be any significant resistance before it goes brass to brass with one o-ring. I'm pretty confused because at some point one o-ring appeared to seal OK.

Here's a standard metric o-ring chart.

http://www.applerubber.com/src/pdf/iso-3601-metric-size-o-rings.pdf

Strangely, there are SAE o-rings with the same numbering, i.e. 111 etc and they are slightly different, but it could just be rounding off of the numbrers. For example the SAE 111 is 7/16" by 3/32" which is 11.11mm x 2.38.

I will mike all mine up (I have SAE, metric buna-N and metric Viton) tonight.

LOL, It shouldn't be this difficult!

Brazos said he tried a #113 o-ring and that was what worked for him.

Just fired about thirty shots at 200bar with my double stacked o-rings. This shouldn't work well, and I do need to figure it out. When the bottle runs down I'll try a 112 and a 113 and see what happens. 113 is pretty big!