Weighing Pellets - Insane question

This project is already a couple years old, so don't expect miracles. I already have the lighter valve spring in the tool box, purchased by accident. Thought I was purchasing a lighter hammer spring. Sounds like I need the lighter hammer spring (shorter as you put it). I get the short enough to have play in it. I'll look at Hill's site to see what they've got.

That's all part of the education. I'd never taken the valve apart before. I tried the lighter valve spring so had to take the valve apart. Amazed at how simple it is. Gives me confidence to tear it apart yet again.

Just reset the regulator a few minutes ago. Perhaps tomorrow I'll get out and see how close it is to 1600 psi. Also looks like I scalped an o-ring putting it back together last time. Pressure was down to Zero. Oh, the joys of tinkering. Makes getting it all back together all that much sweeter.

Shoot straight!
 
Saltlake 

The Marauder is definitely a tinkering platform. The more you tinker with it, the more you learn about how it works. If you take apart the Marauder as often as I do, acquire an Archer Airguns o ring tool. If you buy Steven Archer's 2x Marauder resealing kit, it comes with it. It's an absolutely essential tool if ya rip them apart as much as I do. 

Keep me posted, I love this stuff!!!

Tom Holland 
 
Tom - Last night I had an epiphany. Remember the old 1950's Bugs Bunny cartoons when the antagonist imagines himself a jackass and how funny that is? Well, when you tinker, it's important to "Untinker" that last tinker to get back to a baseline. Well, I realized I forgot to untinker that last tinker before the regulator. (Insert Jackass clip here) So, for the past couple months, all testing I've done is invalid. Probably two years ago, I installed what I think people referred to it as the BStaley fix or something like that to try to stop double valve hits. I tried it. Didn't do much so didn't take it out immediately. Even re-installed it last time I took the gun apart.

That explains why no matter how high I put the Hammer Spring tension (1/4 inch hex key) the FPS doesn't move. I took it out last night and will return to testing perhaps this afternoon if I can get it all back together. As for O-Rings, I bought a supply from O-Rings and More a while back. Still have sufficient for another rebuild. That's the other thing I love about the Marauder, it's SIMPLE! The Marauder has something like less than 10 O-Rings of about 3 or 4 sizes. the Impact has something like 40 O-Rings of 15 or more sizes. (It's early in the morning and don't want to get too exact).

I'll look at the O-Ring tool. The inside of the Marauder tube is a bit sharp on the punch outs so looking for anything to help. I may yet polish the tube.

Have fun! 
 
Saltlake,

That would do it......I've had to untinker more than once myself. Polishing the tube is a good idea, I did it to mine. Here's a secret...take everything apart from the tube, all parts. Bring the tube to your local gun store, and go to the cleaning section. Fit a shotgun cleaning swab into tube, find one that fits snug. Put a little polishing compound on it, and go to town. It'll make it smoother (more consistent hammer strikes) and you'll be good to go. While you have it all apart, before you polish the tube, take the holes and chamfer the inside of them with a dremel with a long thin stone. That'll help you as well.

Keep us posted, you should be off and running now..

Tom Holland 
 
Tom - Yup, polishing sounds like a good idea. The Dremel and cleaning swab sound like an excellent way to approach it. I'll put the swab on my drill so it goes a bit faster. As for final adjustments, I need to develop some data points. Right now, after "Untinkering" so the gun is adjustable again, the three data points I have are confusing. 

about 1900 PSI (If you can believe the gauge) HS and HT at zero, Transfer port 3 turns. 35 shots per fill at about 830fps. If the TP is at 4, about 855 fps.

about 1600 PSI (If you can believe the gauge) HS and HT at zero, Transfer port 4 turns. 29 shots per fill at about 830fps.

about 1450 PSI (If you can believe the gauge) HS at 1 and HT at zero, Transfer port 4 turns. 37 shots per fill at about 810fps.

The Audrius regulator that I have has no markings, but the instructions say to imagine the top of the regulator as a clock dial. Clockwise by 1 hour = 5 Bar. Not quite perfectly accurate, but provides a reasonable starting point. Supposedly it's set at 2200 PSI at 12. Next test should be at approximately 5 which should give me about 1300 PSI. My plan is to start there and work backwards to 12 until I find something that gives me 800 to 830 on average with the lightest hammer spring adjustment and as close to 40 shots per fill as I can get. I'll redo all of my testing in a more consistent fashion so I get decent results. Figure it'll take at least a week to complete the testing and figure out where it needs to be. Once I find the magic combination, I'll stop. Considering that the process to adjust the regulator takes me 20 minutes or so, one test per night might be a bit much to expect. So many other things going on.

Hard to believe this conversation started with a question about how variations in pellet weight impact FPS at the muzzle and evolved to a complete tuning exercise. 

Love this stuff.

As always, Many thanks,

 
Saltlake, 

All the data you supplied above makes perfect sense to me. Here's why.

You started at HS, and HT the same on all, except where you dialed in 1 on the lowest pressure setting. Remember this for later, it's important.

The transfer port you have open to 4. I believe it will go to 5, which might be a better setting.

All the above is logical to me and makes sense.

Something to try. You can only force so much volume through a hole. This is why, regardless of any other setting, you want the transfer port as far open as possible (as I said, I believe it goes to 5), and the largest transfer bushing between the barrel and valve. If you have an extra, drill it out, so at least you have unrestricted flow. 

It seems that you are banging on the door for your goal between the 1600 and 1450 mark. I would set it halfway between for a happy medium.

I would increase both HS and HT, adjust one at a time, you need to get that valve to open wider to let more volume through everything, thus needing the wider transfer port adjustment, and larger transfer bushing. This is also where the lighter valve spring comes into play. You should be able to push the valve stem with one finger, that's how light it should be.

Keep in mind, higher pressure does not always translate to higher velocities. Higher volume is what you want to accomplish first, then, play with the pressure as a final step.



Try some of these, keep me posted. If this doesn't work, I have another mad scientist method, depending upon what aftermarket parts you have or don't have.

Tom Holland 
 
Tom -

Tonight I decided to haul all of my tools out to the test area (unfortunately wife doesn't like shooting indoors). So, First, topped off my tanks. Only have 2 90 CI tanks, so they don't have lots of reserves. Thank heavens for a compressor! Wouldn't be able to do it without one.

Start Settings HS 0, HT 0 TP 5 (Set screw is in place). Unsorted, un-weighed pellets.

Started at 5 O clock position on the regulator. about 1300 PSI. 790 FPS, Tried increasing HS a couple turns, no change.

4 O Clock position - if you can believe the gauge a about 1400 / 1425 is PSI. 810 FPS, again tried increasing HS a couple turns, no change.

Stop, refill the tank I'm using. Only takes about 6 minutes.

3 O Clock position. in the 1550 - 1600 PSI range. first shot was 827 fps, so right on the nose for my desired speed. So, disconnected the bottle and fired magazines as fast as I could. 40 shots between 809 and 827 fps. Looked like #40 was the end of the regulator, so stopped there. That's a 2.2% variance in pellet speed, plenty close enough for me.

I'll validate the tests again later, but for now, I'm stopping the adjustments. This is close enough for my purposes. Validation will be done with weighed and sorted pellets. Looking to see how consistent this combination really is.

By the way, all parts, except the Audrius regulator are stock. No parts are modified or replaced. Gun is 6 or 7 years old, hasn't been shot much. I probably fired more pellets through the barrel on this exercise (close to 2 tins by the time it was over) than the prior two years. That should help break in the barrel a touch.

Provided the validation backs up the initial test, I'm where I want to be. I'll let you know how it shoots. I've beat it a bit during this experience, so I just hope it shoots straight. probably be able to test shoot in a couple days.

Many thanks for the support and direction. Invaluable! I'll keep you posted.


 
Saltlake, 

I would consider that a happy medium, I figured that what the regulator was set at was a little high, 1500-1600 sounds about right. When someone tries to get more power out of the regulator, they are misinformed. A regulator does just that, and you see time and time again, guys wanting more power upping the regs, when they should be tuning the way you did instead. Robert Lane (Lane Regulators) says this in some of his videos, and makes it clear. 

40 shots is about the max you'll get out of it, unless you want to buy a 6" extension tube from Talon Tunes. This will up your shot count to 50-55 or so, but it'll add 6 inches to the gun.

At least you got your target numbers in, now sight it in and have fun shooting it!!

Glad I could help 

Tom Holland 


 
Tom - spent last night weighing pellets. I want to see how tight the regulator really works, so getting pellets at same weight to 1/100 gram. Using Crosman Premier 14.3 Hollow points. Mostly because they are cheap and I'm going through lots of pellets in this testing. Sorted to the tenth of a grain, then resorted the 14.40 to 14.49's to 1/100 because that's where the most pellets were in this tin, and double weighing showed a couple mistakes from the earlier weighing session.

In the next couple days, I'll fill the Marauder to 3000 PSI, and do a 50 shot string to see how exact it really is. This is more of a OCD thing now, as unsorted pellets did pretty well with a really tight string.

I did notice that the pellets in this tin ranged from 14.16 to 14.70 grains. That's over a 3.75% variance ((14.7-14.16)/14.3 = 0.0377622) If I made a math mistake, it was 5:30 AM when I did the calculation! 

Now that I have the range much tighter, we'll see how she flies

More to come
 
Understood. 

All of the info above is based on shooting the same pellets from the same gun with no changes to settings to eliminate as much variation as possible. Changing pellet brands, or even switching between the Premier Domes and Premier Hollows would negate the value of the tests. So far all of my testing is with the Premier Hollows. The Premier Domes do shot at the same speeds, but for the sake of accurate testing, it'll all be done with the same pellets. The 18 grain JSB's shoot about 70 fps slower, so I may pick up some of the 15 grain JSB's later and give them a try. for now, it'll be tuned with the Crosman's.

Sort of like Matt Dubber's new YouTube video on slugs and the FX barrels. Counter intuitive - a perfectly polished barrel will actually slow the slug down, which is why he recommends a lubricant for slugs. Even the method of choking the barrel had a major impact on the results. The slightest variation in the equation of air pressure, pellet weight, alloy, and a half dozen other things can significantly change the results. It's a weird world we live in!
 
Saltlake,

Also, keep in mind that not only the weights of the pellet affect velocity, ( if they are all identical), but the headsize as well. You can have all your pellets exactly the same weight, if their headsizes are different, that will introduce higher or lower drag rates within the same weight of pellet. That's one of the reasons why I do all of the stuff I do with pellets. I almost have my sorting process down so well that I'm almost in single digit spreads between 60-70 shots, as compared to well over 50+ FPS unsorted out of the tin.

Tom Holland 
 
I need to watch the rest of your sorting videos. So far, results were excellent, but a bit strange.

Good News - I started with one magazine filled wit h 14.49 grain pellets.10 rounds with an extreme spread of 4. (Dancing in the streets~!!!!!!!)

Next, tried a magazine of 14.41 grain (.08 grain difference). Extreme spread 4. More dancing in the streets!

Now for the weird. Last session, speeds ranged from 809 to 827 fps. Same brand of pellets, but different tin. Unweighed and unsorted. Still, 18fps spread isn't bad.

Tonight, the speeds immediately jumped 40 fps or so. The 14.49's were shooting 870 to 874, and the 14.41's were shooting at 874 to 878 fps. Just to make sure it wasn't the different tin of pellets, I loaded up 5 magazines from the same tin that gave me the 809 to 827 range last time. You guessed it, up at 870-ish.

I double checked the adjustments and nothing changed. HS and HT are at zero. All I can think of is that I scalped an O-Ring and the debris was caught in something and it finally blew through the gun.

It's also down to 30 shots per fill. Not all bad though. I may leave it this way as the JSB 18 grains should shoot about 800 fps on this setup. That'll give me two pellets to choose with acceptable power.

Now for the ugly - definitely has a leak, so I probably scalped an o-ring last time I put it back together. That means I'll be polishing the tube before I thought I would. I'll pick up a shotgun swab and start with that. I'll also Dremel the holes.

I'll try again this weekend and double check the results. Very perplexing to say the least, but also means if I tear it apart to polish the air tube, I can start the tuning process over again if I want. Then again, this seems like a good balance, once I figure out how accurate the gun is at 50 yards.
 
Saltlake,

When velocity changes with a Marauder, it could be one (or more) of these things.

The first would be check the setscrew on the adjustable transfer port. Don't use loctite on it, it's too strong. I like to use clear nail polish. Keeps it in place, and when you want, you can break it.

Second, is to take apart the rear end cap adjustment screw for your hammer tension. Wrap it in a few layers of teflon tape. This will make adjustments extremely difficult, but that screw will not move. This will prevent it from slowly backing out from shot to shot.

Third, and the most overlooked, is the hammer length adjustment. When you remove the hammer, there is a setscrew on the side. Remove the setscrew CAREFULLY!!!, there should be a small microscopic piece of teflon, about the size of a pin head, between the threads of the hammer, and the setscrew. If it is not there, you'll need a new one. If it is there, put it back, and replace the setscrew. Crank down on it righteously. It needs to be very tight. Your hammer adjustment will be very difficult, but you want that. This prevents it from moving.

All of these adjustments should be very stiff and difficult to adjust, minus the transfer port screw. This will prevent anything from moving during repeated shot cycles.

Seems that the pellet sorting is showing its rewards as well..

Tom Holland 
 
I can see my weekend will be spent on the work bench cleaning up the gun. Plus, as long as I'm spending all this time on it, I just ordered the Hill Transfer Port and the 255 and 262 springs. I already have the lighter valve spring. will install all parts as soon as they come in.

I'll also check all the components you recommended above. Seems odd that it was so sudden but whatever. I'll dig in and figure it out. 

I figured when I bought the Marauder, it was my learning platform. Since it was adjustable, and had so many out there, I thought eventually I could make some custom tuning modifications and there would be people that could help, and now, after 6 or 7 years, I'm finally getting around to doing the tuning and you are helping lots! It's been a good shooter, but the tinkering is fun too.

When I bought the Impact, I kept the Marauder as a project gun. At this point in my life, I need a little technical stimulus as I don't have access to my wood shop. Long story there. Father is 94 and requires constant care. I can work on the gun in the basement where I currently live. The last couple of weeks tuning and tinkering have been incredibly fun! I thank you for all the input. When it comes to tinkering, the Impact is just too easy! (My hat is off to FX for the Impact, I love the gun, but really, I want that setup to shoot at 75 and 100 yards, the Marauder is fun to play with!)

I'll pick up a shotgun cleaning swab and get ready to clean / polish the barrel. I have a rotary tool that can debur the tube and will tackle all that this weekend. Probably take the gun apart (again!) tonight. Wife is a bit concerned that I keep tinkering, but I keep telling her it keeps me out of trouble.

I'll keep you posted . . . . This is getting seriously fun.
 
Saltlake,

Up until about 2 years ago, (after having this Marauder since 2010) I finally grew a pair and took it apart for the first time. I've tinkered and tuned and improved it over time. In 2016 I took 2nd in WFTF class at the Pyramyd Air Cup, only being beaten by world Champion Greg Sauve. Being I was that competitive with a "lowly" Marauder was the buzz of the summer in the Field Target world.

Since then, I've had the gun apart God knows how many times. I can take that puppy, strip every nut , bolt, and screw off of it, and have it back together again in 15 minutes. All of this, with NO extra parts left over!!!!! Haha. This has familiarized me with this gun so well, when someone poses a problem or an issue with it, I know exactly what the problem is, and how to fix it within a matter of minutes. You seem to be on your way to that path as well.

If fact, within the next few days, I'll have to dissect it once again, I have a newly polished barrel that I have recrowned to put onto it.

And you are right......tinkering with it is seriously fun. And, as I said, you'll get to "know" the gun so well, you'll be able to tune and troubleshoot it in a matter of minutes.

Keep us posted, happy tinkering 

Tom Holland 
 
I'll sing praises to the Marauder in one other area - Simplicity. I had to completely rebuild the Impact last winter. While the Marauder has something like a total of 8 O-Rings, the Impact has something like 15 different sizes, and multiple installs of each. Don't even ask about the regulator O-Ring, that one alone took me an hour to re-install. Ernst Rowe did a complete YouTube series on the Impact tear down and rebuild. If you want to see a complex gun, watch that. Over the weeks (yes, several weeks to tear down and rebuild), I gained a lot of confidence in working with airguns.

So, I decided to regulate the Marauder. Super Simple compared to the Impact. I can tear it down in a few minutes and get it back together in not much more. It is much more difficult to play with the regulator than the Impact, but for tinkering and making it your own gun, it's incredibly simple and straight forward. I'm so happy I kept it as a learning platform. Even before I bought the Impact, learning how the adjustments on the Marauder worked get me ready to understand the adjustments on the Impact as they are roughly the same, just managed a bit differently.

I just bought the Shotgun cleaning kit and will start polishing the tube this weekend. When sharpening wood working tools, I use the sandpaper system and it should work nicely here. I'll finish off with some abrasive compound on the bore mop.

The Marauder is an amazing, underrated platform. Crosman's difficulty with barrel quality in the early models was probably one major reason, but the quality today is really up with some of the best. Before regulating, I was shooting 2 inch groups at 75 yards. The groups were one magazine each, so that's 10 shots each. Not bad for a $400 gun pretty much out of the box! Best part is that if I set it up as a 50 yard gun, but want to go to 75 yards, it's easy.

Much tinkering this weekend to do, but hopefully I'll have results early next week. 
 
Tube polished, and I can feel the difference. I also polished the hammer a bit. Took the rough edges off and smoothed the machine marks. Checked the settings as you specified. The HS and HT were still at zero (I did wrap the Hammer adjustment with teflon tape so it is tighter.) Set screw was still set properly.

I do have a question about the hammer set screw. I don't see one. There's an unthreaded hole on the top of the hammer, in front of the Stud Bolt. I wonder if it's a defective part? I'll have to call Crosman on Monday. If that's the case, I'll order a Hill Hammer to solve the problem.

I looking at the schematic from Crosman and it shows an Acetal Pin in the front hole, which is missing in my hammer. I can see the hammer threads through the unthreaded hole. I can see where the missing screw is needed to keep the hammer screw from moving.

I installed the lighter spring in the valve, and am waiting for the lighter hammer spring before completely reassembling. Polishing seems to have taken care of the O-Ring scalping problem. Used a Dremel tool as suggested to ease the edges inside the tube. The tube and punch outs are absolutely smooth. Kinda cool!

Lighter hammer springs and larger transfer port should be here Monday evening. I'll reassemble and test as fast as possible, but minimum waiting a couple days.


 
Saltlake,

I ordered several hammers from Crosman about 6 months ago, and all of the hammers were drilled and threaded for the plastic piece and setscrew. This is not the first time I have heard of the hammer setscrew hole not being threaded.

Keep in mind, that if you do order the Hill hammer, it is not adjustable. The striker part that actually hits the valve is against the front face of the hammer, and that's it. No adjustment. In my opinion, you are better off with the stock hammer, because you can adjust it, if you want to make the hammer lighter, (I believe it weighs 90 grams) you can drill it out. The Hill hammer is only 25 grams.

Keep me posted, this is interesting 



Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
I noticed that the hammer has a compound on it that makes it difficult to turn. The coumpound was only on the first half inch or so of the screw. I suspect it as an attempt to save $$ at Crosman. Probably worked OK in testing, but in reality, the set screw is needed. I'll call Crosman on Monday and ask. My goal is not to use it, so leave it at zero. We'll see if it'll work or I need to adjust the hammer. At $65 the hill hammer is a bit pricey, so I'll stick with the Crosman for a bit.

Can hardly wait for tomorrow when the springs arrive. I'll be able to put this back together and do a quick test. Topped off my tanks yesterday, so I've got air to work with ☺️