Waxing / lubing the barrell . . . ?

There have been recent threads in here re: cleaning, tumbling, lubing, etc . . . . pellets and slugs. I myself do clean and lube - if the local FT competitions start up again next summer {sigh . . . :( ) then I'll likely be weighing and sorting those too --> .177 10.3's.

So the subject: I saw this over on GTA some time ago but have never seen or read about anyone in here doing it.

( https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=171438.0 )

There are some pretty smart / seasoned guys over there, we have some very sharp and seasoned guys in here too. Some ( or most? ) I suspect hang out in both forums . . . ?

Thoughts?
 
If it works...I can see where wax may fill in micro pits in the bore, or maybe temporarily tighten the bore for undersized slugs. I prefer to start with very clean bores and find projectiles that like a clean bore. This way I don't have to fiddle with things like wax to chase accuracy. If accuracy does fall off, all I have to do is clean the barrel to get back on track. Lubed projectiles stretch the cleaning intervals, or I can just clean anytime I feel the need to do so while keeping the accuracy going. It's just a much better reference than trying to guess how much wax to apply or how long it will last, IMHO. The PatchWorm kit coupled along with the optional scrub pads are hard to beat for a real thorough cleaning on the fly or at home.
 
Like Scott said, if you lap and polish your barrel and then apply the wax, it works great at increasing accuracy and consistency. I like to experiment with everything, I’ll try anything once to see if it works or not. Cleaning and weighing pellets, lapping barrels, polishing barrels and waxing them. I also lube projectiles. I can’t always tell why something works but I can tell what I’ve tested and if it works in my guns! I try to give people honest, useful information that I go out and get myself. I try not to speculate and don’t pass on bad information that I “heard somewhere” online. Testing things 1st hand is the only way to really know if something works. When I give people information, I usually end the post, text, e-mail or phone call by saying, “that’s in my guns, be sure to test it yourself, in your guns!”

When I was testing a lot of slugs for NSA, VK and others, I tested most of the slugs with standard, stock, Lothar Walther barrels and FX liners...FX 600mm and 700mm STX, 600mm and 700mm Slug A and 700mm Standard Superior. In the 2nd phase of initial testing, I lapped and polished all of the liners I used. Accuracy increased, velocity increased and so did consistency. Next, I tested all of the slugs with lube. The duration between cleanings and the velocity in most cases increased and so did accuracy with some slugs. In the last phase of the initial testing, I used Renaissance wax in the liners. I cleaned them thoroughly, very thoroughly. Then I would use a drill, length of cleaning rod and very tight fitting mop to apply the wax. After it started to dry and harden a little bit I would really rub it into the pores with a tight fitting, hard foam cylindrical pad. I let it totally dry overnight and then I would shoot a couple of .25 cleaning pellets to get any dried, excess wax out of the barrel(never much) and then I shoot! If Scott says he lets it dry and then starts shooting and it works, believe him. He knows his stuff, I’ve just done it differently. I’m going to give his method a try. It can’t take more than a couple of pellets to get anything out of the barrel, faster and easier than the way I do it!

I can tell you that a waxed barrel and lubed projectiles has nothing to do with chasing accuracy. We all start with the best shooting projectile for our guns, some then lap/polish the barrel...Usually a one time deal. Then you wax it! You don’t wax much, it stays there a long time. I clean my barrel when it needs it, usually after a couple hundred pellets, I‘ll just quickly with a Patch Worm and light solvent through the liner, then a few dry patches until they’re absolutely clean...5-6 minutes! I rewax my barrel much more infrequently...Maybe every month or so, actually probably much longer. My method works and only takes maybe 5-10 minutes to apply and an afternoon in the sun or overnight to dry. There is no guessing how much wax to use, fiddling, chasing accuracy or anything like that. You already have a cleaning regimen, now when done cleaning, just add some wax to a tight fitting mop, rub it in, either by hand or with a drill. Let it dry overnight and then go shoot. You’ll now have to clean even less frequently than with lube alone, consistency will increase, fliers will decrease, your accuracy and velocity will probably increase as well! It only takes 5-10 minutes, what can it hurt? Seriously, give it a try, you’ll like the results! After initial waxing, just re-wax every once in a while. Have a good one! 

Stoti
 
Like so many other things air gun related, if you like it, great. If not, no harm done. Scott (Motörhead) is a well known and respected air gun tuner who’s very knowledgeable and always willing to help. Like I said, my information just comes from testing things myself. One of the really great things about AGN is that there are so many friendly, knowledgeable people that have been air gunning for decades, know their stuff and are ready to help. 

Sorry, I’m starting to ramble on again...I hope you have a great rest of your week!

Stoti
 
Kind of need to giggle on this subject ... While i may not have been the first to try waxing an AG bore ? had never ever read of such a practice on any air gun forums, articles or such information sources. It was a couple years of doing so when folks kept asking me why in the hell those guns i was tuning as well guns I was shooting were so damn accurate ?

Enough inquires and reading of folks struggling to keep good barrels shooting well started making low key posts of the process w/o giving up too much on barrel threads over on the GTA forum.

In the last few years those who read such posts and picked up on the nuggets of info spelled out have slowly brought this practice out into the open on many forums, facebook etc ...

A GOOD barrel is key !! ... It won't make a crap barrel shoot better !! Then it is PREP being lapped / polished and VERY clean prior to applying the hard wax to bore.

Wet and ample application too !! .... After dry just start shooting.



Scott S
 
I still stand by my alternate method of having a clean bore as a good reference point for best accuracy. I am not opposed to trying a clean bore with hard wax as a good reference point, if that will either increase accuracy or prolong lead fouling. I have ordered some clear hard wax and will be giving this a try in my FX superior liner using cast slugs. Thanks for the tips!

Bore wax 9-22-20.1600959781.JPG



 
I’ve tried the molybdenum disulfide powder burnishing into my center fire Bullets with really no impact! But thought since I still had some on Hand a few Years ago I would try pellets “no difference” just a very large mess tried burnishing into barrel as well! The moly I was using was industrial grade with no carrier made by Bel-Ray, very nasty stuff we had to use respirators to handle! Be careful Don’t breathe it in If it’s a actual powder
 
I followed this thread with great interest and gave it a try. I have a new Impact Mk2 PP in .22. I polished the Slug A liner with JB Paste and spent 4 weeks and many slugs to find my magical tune. So, the current tune consistently delivers sub MOA groups at 100m, when I shoot in a very disciplined way. Best so far was 5 consecutive sub MOA groups at 100m, 3 shots each. I lube slugs with silicon spray. 


Only then did I wax the liner thoroughly with Renaissance wax, following the advice from Stoti and Scott. I have only had one opportunity to shoot the rifle after the treatment. I have noticed even less fouling. And I shot my personal best groups at 157 and 178m. I was shooting a pigeon size can at 140m and hit it 10 out of 10 times, which I have not managed before. Hit ratio before in similar wind conditions was about 80%. So, consistency may have improved. I will see if this pattern holds as I shoot at this location about once a month. 
It does look promising already though. The 178m group was an astonishing 24mm ctc. I know that my average group size at that distance is 55mm, before the wax treatment. Only had time for one group before I had to go. Will keep track of average groups at various distances now. 

Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

I have a few related questions:

I clean my barrel every 200 slugs (1 tin of H&Ns 27grainers) by pulling a few dry patches through the liner. I clean the barrel with Ballistol every 600 or so slugs. By the way, it takes my rifle about 20 to 28 slugs to start grouping as before. 

Will the Ballistol remove the wax?

How often would you recommend applying wax again given the above cleaning routine?

Appreciate the advice.

Kurt


 
I have been happy with the results of waxing my FX liners. Got a new 700mm Superior liner in .30 cal, and before putting it in service, I thoroughly cleaned it with JB Bore Paste (gray paste), then I polished it with JB Bore Bright (red paste), then applied the Treewax hard carnauba wax. As recommended, I left it to dry, then shot it out. I noticed maybe 2-4 wider shots, then they closed up and looked very good and consistent from there on. I run a few dry patches through when groups just begins to have flyers (usually get almost two tins of 150 ct .30 cal), and they clean up. The dry patches only take 3-4 and they are remarkably clean compared to what they were before waxing. I don't even use Ballistol like I did before waxing.

When I prepped and waxed the liner, I did it to just the liner secured in a padded vise. Then I installed the liner o-rings and mounted it in the barrel shroud. When I'm ready to re-apply more wax, do I need to remove the liner again so I don't run my wax applicator over the breach o-ring? If I don't, I assume the breech o-ring should then be changed and the o-ring channel cleaned before inserting the new o-ring? Or, has anyone re-waxed over the breach o-ring then just dry-patched over it clean up the excess wax?
 
It’s possible that the solvent in some waxes could be incompatible with the O-ring material (generally either Buna-N or polyurethane) but I’ve had no issues applying wax with the breech O-ring in place. I definitely do not recommend removing the O-ring beforehand because that would allow wax to pack into the O-ring groove. If it dries in there, it would be quite difficult to remove so definitely keep an O-ring in place while you do the waxing.