Wax and gun bores

Can springers take this wax treatment?

Great question!!

Following more intently

To be honest, I haven’t picked up my springers in a while but I see no reason why not. Once the wax’s solvent has evaporated, there’s nothing to promote dieseling.

I haven’t picked mine up lately either but when my tank runs out, that’s it and I’ll be shooting the springer. Actually I shot it the other day and had fun. Grouping got tighter and tighter as I re-familiarized. 

Can springers take this wax treatment?

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I believe the OP (Ed) mentioned he initially used this treatment on his Gamo Swarm Whisper. Isn't that a springer?



Ed,

First of all, thank you for your service. While you were in did you ever hear of a product called "Strike Hold"? According to the owner and info on their website it was supposedly developed for and used in desert ops to address the dusty conditions you mentioned. I've been using this product on my powder burners for a couple years with excellent results. Recently I started using it to lube cleaned pellets and the results are equally good. The SH product goes on wet and after the cleaning solvents evaporate there is a dry film lubricant left behind. FWIW, I have no affiliation with this company but I am a dedicated user of the product.

I have a question. Should the barrel be removed from the action when waxing? Other wise will the wax end up in the TP?

You can just give it a dry fire while the wax is still wet to clear the transfer port.

Renaissance Wax, the best there is.

It has been used for many many years by top curators of irreplaceable collections in fine museums. 

Have you ever looked at a gun that has been loved, lubed, put in a safe, and rusted anyway?

The process works something like this;

Almost all lubes whether petroleum or otherwize evaporate over time.

While the gun is "wet" it attracts fine dust.

Next, the lube evaporates leaving a fine layer of dust behind.

Finally the dust attracts moisture, = RUST!

Wax, on the other hand, once dry, REPELS dust, does not evaporate and never attracts moisture. 

In the worst case, if you overdo it you would need a good wipedown before use. No harm, no foul! 

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I second your recommendation. I have been using Renaissance Wax for years on everything including my airguns.

I just ordered some Trewax Clear Floor Wax Paste. I'll give this a try. I have a great setup going that will be a good test. I used Krytec in the past and didn't see a benefit for all the extra trouble. I took a look at the Renaissance Wax, and I could be wrong, but it gave me the impression it may have some light grit to it for cleaning off old products ???

I just ordered some Trewax Clear Floor Wax Paste. I'll give this a try. I have a great setup going that will be a good test. I used Krytec in the past and didn't see a benefit for all the extra trouble. I took a look at the Renaissance Wax, and I could be wrong, but it gave me the impression it may have some light grit to it for cleaning off old products ???

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There are no abrasives or "grit" that I can perceive in Renaissance Wax

I've not yet tried waxing the barrel with it (or with any other product) but do use it on wood stocks & metal.

Ed

Not sure (maybe at all) I buy into this "trick".

Especially on a powder fired weapon. There's a LOT of heat (fire !) following the projectile down the barrel. Wax and heat do not get along, it's a very low temperature material. Add to that, the pressure/friction of the projectile forcing its way down the barrel, will wipe the soft wax away, by the second or third (at most) round.

I see the wax lasting a while longer in air powered weapons, but even then, the pressure of the lead pellet against the barrel, will wipe the wax off in xx (few) rounds fired.

Unfortunately, I see NO way of proving how long the wax will live under the loading, the friction, and the heat of a .308 (most are in the .3xx range I believe) round (even a .223), either way. Any way pf proving it's "long lasting" capabilities, will be destroyed cutting a barrel open to find out if it is actually still there.

Nope, don't buy it (that it does anything past about 2 rounds) for a minute in powder fired weapons, and only a small amount (maybe 10 rounds) in air rifles.

In my previous job (now retired), I was a Sr. Test Engineer for a major Aerospace company. I was a skeptical person to begin with, and now after 20 years of testing various things that were..."supposed" to work and be wonderful, I'm even more skeptical about things now..."too good to be true". Seen too many fail...gloriously !

Hell, dishwashing soap washes even GOOD wax's off the paint of your car in one washing..! Just how tough do you think this miracle elixir is ? Under the BEST circumstances, on good paint, you need to wax the paint 4+ times a year to properly protect the paint...with NO excessive (much over 100° in most areas) heat, with NOTHING rubbing on it, (and for powder fired weapons)...NO...fire..!



Mike

Hello Mike

A small diversion, if I may

Have you tried washing your car with a good car washing soap instead of dish soap?

I use Meguier's Gold

It takes the dirt off and leaves the wax on

Here's a link to the gallon size, which lasts a very long time

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7101FFP-Gold-Class-Wash/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2CA87DJLDRFLN&dchild=1&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash&qid=1600993406&s=automotive&sprefix=meguiers+gold+class+%2Cautomotive%2C143&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUjZOTVUxWThLTUQxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjExMzAzWkNaVElZSzRXVDc3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MjkwMDZXNEIyNFhRRElERlAmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Other brands probably perform as well, but I've not tried them



Ed

You can just give it a dry fire while the wax is still wet to clear the transfer port.

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Be careful about dry firing your springers. Have had some bad luck with that.

Transfer port on a springer?

I never considered waxing my gun, I have watched my GF get a Brazilian wax...Looks painful. 

Total newb here, so forgive me if this a naive question. While reading this thread I was hoping someone might address what effect waxes containing carrier chemicals and micro-abrasive agents may have on the the o-ring at the breach? Any chemical or abrasive degradation causing leaks here?

I had always thought it was important to lead up a barrel which takes place slowly over the first 100 rounds or so.

This makes the given pellet more accurate until reaching an optimum and why I do not recommending cleaning barrels until accuracy starts to get effected by a foreign body, or oil meniscus from the cylinder getting into the bore. Leading up occurs due to a tiny meniscus left by the lead pellet filling in the microscopic grain structure of the steel.

This is why i do not take much from pellet tests in gun magazines because they have not had time to lead up using the same pellet before switching to another pellet. Leading up is a pellet specific process. Always give a pellet a chance before discounting it to allow this level of settling in.

For me, waxing could introduce inconsistency. It could work great at covering the aspect I mentioned above but would surely start to wear off, adding a slight inconsistency to the point of impact across time..while leading up is a continual self maintained process....

To the contrary, barrels that have required the most seasoning shots to stabilize suddenly need only a few after the wax treatment, and they hold their POI for longer before needing cleaning again.

It’s easy enough to try to see if you like the results. 

what about the newer style ceramic waxes which you spray on and wipe to buff?

they are a thin liquid, i use the turtle wax version on my vehicle and it works great for about 5weeks

very easy to use compared to paste waxes